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What did you do to your R18 today?

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Performing a 6000mi service on a friends R18 Classic and joined here to find valve clearance and fastener torque specs as well as any general maintenance knowledge. This forum, like the others I am on, is a great resource. Started to remove the air filter and the threaded brass inserts for the air box lid backed out. I had to epoxy them back in and while searching this site found it has happened to others as well. Looking forward to searching the forum further.
 

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crustyapo said:
Performing a 6000mi service on a friends R18 Classic and joined here to find valve clearance and fastener torque specs as well as any general maintenance knowledge. This forum, like the others I am on, is a great resource. Started to remove the air filter and the threaded brass inserts for the air box lid backed out. I had to epoxy them back in and while searching this site found it has happened to others as well. Looking forward to searching the forum further.
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Those look like expansion inserts. They are designed to expand and lock in place when tight but are removable when loose. I could be wrong but that is what they look like.
 
bdalameda said:
Those look like expansion inserts. They are designed to expand and lock in place when tight but are removable when loose. I could be wrong but that is what they look like.
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They have a coarse external RH thread on them (like an “acme” thread). They use similar inserts on woodworking. There are a few different ways to put metal inserts into plastic parts.

https://www.ptonline.com/articles/four-ways-to-tackle-threaded-inserts-for-plastics

The notch in the bottom would lock the insert into place once the plastic around it had hardened. I highly doubt it was ever intended to be removed. Someone just over tightened the airbox cover screws and it pulled the insert out when I attempted to remove the cover.
 

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crustyapo, same thing happened to me when changing the air filter for 6,000 service. Really frustrating to go through the laborious process of getting access to the air filter, only to have this problem happen to slow things down further. Next time, I'll switch to an aftermarket filter like the DNA Stage 2 that replaces the plastic intake box with a more robust metal bracket.
 
Manhattan Matte said:
crustyapo, same thing happened to me when changing the air filter for 6,000 service. Really frustrating to go through the laborious process of getting access to the air filter, only to have this problem happen to slow things down further. Next time, I'll switch to an aftermarket filter like the DNA Stage 2 that replaces the plastic intake box with a more robust metal bracket.
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I put some anti-seize on the airbox cover screws and didn’t reef them down like the last guy so they would come out with less effort next time. The DNA Stage 2 air filter mod looks interesting.
 
I had thought about inserting riv-nuts vs epoxy as a final solution for the loose brass sleeves; however, I backed out the brass sleeves and dabbed some epoxy in place and reinserted the brass sleeve, which seemed to work well when I replaced my air filter for the 2nd time since ownership..

I'll get another look at them next weekend, where I'm planning on doing some annual maintenance in preparation for the change in season.
 
I installed a new garage door opener in our garage, after it broke some 10 or 15 yrs ago...

I used double-sided 3M tape and placed one of the remotes on the underside of my fuel cap compartment... Fits perfectly - CHAMBERLAIN brand garage door - belt driven 3/4 HP.

No more jumping off the bike at the end of a long day's ride and manually lifing the door...

Screenshot_20260418-141637.png
 
Rode it, cleaned it and ready to order a black radiator cover, front engine cover trim (to match the cylinder guards) and front axle sliders tomorrow…. I don’t think that there is an end 🤔😳😉
 
HUNTS said:
Rode it, cleaned it and ready to order a black radiator cover, front engine cover trim (to match the cylinder guards) and front axle sliders tomorrow…. I don’t think that there is an end 🤔😳😉
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I was just thinking that I’m at the end of my addiction to additions.
 
High Gloss Black Oil Cooler - I have a spare oil cooler and the plastic cover from the Bobber project... I may look into painting it high gloss black, maybe drop it off at a paint shop and use the R18 FE paint code and swap it for the existing cover and see how it looks...
 
Star-Lord said:
I installed a new garage door opener in our garage, after it broke some 10 or 15 yrs ago...

I used double-sided 3M tape and placed one of the remotes on the underside of my fuel cap compartment... Fits perfectly - CHAMBERLAIN brand garage door - belt driven 3/4 HP.

No more jumping off the bike at the end of a long day's ride and manually lifing the door...

View attachment 20865
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No need for an opener button if you have a MyQ-enabled opener. You can just use the app on your phone.
 
Star-Lord said:
Wi-Fi signal out to my garage is spotty at best..
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Hey @Star-Lord, I just installed the $50 Meross gadget on my old Genie Intellicode garage motor and it’s honestly one of the best things I’ve ever bought! It works so smooth and is compatible with almost every brand. I finally ditched the physical remote. Now I just say 'Hey Siri' or 'Hey Alexa, open my garage door' and I'm in.

If you're not in the mood to talk to Siri or Alexa, it also puts a sweet shortcut right on your iPhone home screen, so you can just tap the icon and the door opens instantly. To make sure the connection was solid, I grabbed the TP-Link Deco Mesh system from Amazon to kill the weak Wi-Fi in my garage. It’s super easy: you just plug one into your router and the other one near the garage. It’s total plug-and-play with no real installation hassle.

And like @emgarciax said, you don't actually need Wi-Fi outside your garage because it’s not a direct connection from your phone to the door. It goes: Phone (using mobile data) → Internet → Home Wi-Fi → Meross. Seriously, such a game changer!
 
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