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Exhaust Servo

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Sounds promising, any pictures from drilled discs?

Lots of them, here's one.

 
Just to chime in...

When I had the Freedom Performance 4.5 exhausts installed I had the servos removed completely --as well as a BT Moto Tune. Definitely felt a power increase.
(Still not loud enough at idle for my taste tho)
 
Just to chime in...

When I had the Freedom Performance 4.5 exhausts installed I had the servos removed completely --as well as a BT Moto Tune. Definitely felt a power increase.
(Still not loud enough at idle for my taste tho)

Pull the baffles out of the Freedom Exhaust mufflers. That's what I did - sounds great and still not obnoxious.
 
Just to chime in...

When I had the Freedom Performance 4.5 exhausts installed I had the servos removed completely --as well as a BT Moto Tune. Definitely felt a power increase.
(Still not loud enough at idle for my taste tho)
Interesting as I think it's perfect at idle, esp when you first start it. I have the 4" exhausts but from what I understand they're the same as the 4.5", just the outer shell is a half inch larger, the core pipe is the same.
 
Here's a clip of what the exhaust looks like from the back (BMW K1600) ... what exactly did you pull out? The perforated core maybe?

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There is an open baffle insulated with fiberglass insulation that is removable. I know - i pulled mine out.
Agreed .. there are removable baffles in the 'Freedom' product .. and they even make two versions ... the 'Quiet' one and the standard ... well don't bother with the quiet one, that was the first thing I ripped out and replaced it with the standard ... It is plenty loud ... and I can run (if I keep my heavy hand out of it) run pretty stealthy if need be ... @moleculo how loud is it in comparison ... baffle in v/s baffle out? (just best guess not a db reading )
 
not that it matters, but I would expect error codes to be logged..... so a gs111/dealer/obd reader etc would see them.... but nothing on the instruments.

Off course what that might mean to a dealer would vary...... depending on the country you are in/their attitude/what you are asking for etc.
As I have the ‘25 model where torque was increased slightly (to 163Nm), should I still disconnect the cables and reconnect if there’s any warranty issues, as it has a 5 year warranty? This is the reason why I can’t drill out the rear baffles.
 
As I have the ‘25 model where torque was increased slightly (to 163Nm), should I still disconnect the cables and reconnect if there’s any warranty issues, as it has a 5 year warranty? This is the reason why I can’t drill out the rear baffles.
Anyone, Bueller, anyone…???
 
As I have the ‘25 model where torque was increased slightly (to 163Nm), should I still disconnect the cables and reconnect if there’s any warranty issues, as it has a 5 year warranty? This is the reason why I can’t drill out the rear baffles.
"Should" is a funny word in this context.

An oldish person with some time on their hands, probally would get an "obd" device so they can reset codes etc.... then after a few weeks practice getting down and up from the ground, remove the cables off the servos (15 min work)..... live with it for a few weeks..... if it doesn't rock your boat reconnect them and use the obd thing to clear any codes..... itch scratched.... in my view it isn't night and day.... just an itch scratched.
 
"Should" is a funny word in this context.

An oldish person with some time on their hands, probally would get an "obd" device so they can reset codes etc.... then after a few weeks practice getting down and up from the ground, remove the cables off the servos (15 min work)..... live with it for a few weeks..... if it doesn't rock your boat reconnect them and use the obd thing to clear any codes..... itch scratched.... in my view it isn't night and day.... just an itch scratched.
You just described me...
 
You just described me...

Yes.... lots of quite normal people here, mostly just different countries, culture and riding conditions etc.

Though I'm pretty sure gravity is much stronger where I live..... you just got to look at a globe to see Australia has the weight of most of the world on top of it so gettimg up off the ground down here can be extra hard....... this sorta explains our tendency to drink lots of beer when dealing with all that extra pressure as well.
 
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Yes.... lots of quite normal people here, mostly just different countries, culture and riding conditions etc.

Though I'm pretty sure gravity is much stronger where I live..... you just got to look at a globe to see Australia has the weight of most of the world on top of it so gettimg up off the ground down here can be extra hard....... this sorta explains our tendency to drink lots of beer when dealing with all that extra pressure as well.
Don’t forget our Prime Minister, Anthony Albatross…. A huge weight to 🐻.
 
"Should" is a funny word in this context.

An oldish person with some time on their hands, probally would get an "obd" device so they can reset codes etc.... then after a few weeks practice getting down and up from the ground, remove the cables off the servos (15 min work)..... live with it for a few weeks..... if it doesn't rock your boat reconnect them and use the obd thing to clear any codes..... itch scratched.... in my view it isn't night and day.... just an itch scratched.
Bit louder at higher revs, isn’t it😉😃👍
 
Went for a longer ride today… sounds a lot better under acceleration.
Worth doing.
That's nice. You'll probally get use to it and want more..... such is life. My suspicions are that the mod is better on the "non fish tale exhausts".

A way to double noise for under $100 can be done..... and your able to have it on or off. Mostly only good for the occasional shorter ride though.
 
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Went for a longer ride today… sounds a lot better under acceleration.
Worth doing.
Happy that you are happy.

I do not know what the operating criteria for the flaps are.
They are a ´Bobby dodger´ for the EU noise emission tests for homologation.
This test involves idle, mid revs when stationary but also roll by test at various speeds incl. full throttle accelleration.
The CPU can tells the servos to actuate the flaps under ány of above and more conditions.
Although ´we´ assume when it actuates it can very well be that it only actuates with a lot of throttle between 50 and 70 km/h per example.
It is ONLY an invention to pass the EU noise test.

The tests also involve the stationary measurements to establish a sound level which can be verified during periodic inspections and at road side stops.
This dB level is included on the EU vehicle license registration documents and it is a bit higher than the value measured at homologation to compensate for potentially increased noises by use.
At inspection they will check a homologation number on the mufflers as well. If one decided to fit an after market one, the homologations document of the mufflers must be presented with the vehicle papers at inspection.

Anyway, I am unaware of when, under which circumstances, the flaps are actutated. Would lóve to know.
 
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