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Just installed a lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery

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1911tex said:
Scott you are right on! If you follow your owners guide on removing the battery...there is only one way (on the R18); the Neg terminal is only accessible first with just an inch or two battery pulled out...once battery is out, the Pos is available....install battery the same way as removed; i.e. connect negative, then push in battery and connect positive last. Not difficult at all.
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That seems backwards. If neg terminal is to be disconnected first on removal, then shouldn’t neg terminal be connected last on re-insertion?
 
1911tex said:
You are sharp as a tack! Corrected! Thank you
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1911Tex can do it the way he described... However, I would definitely recommend wearing brown pants...

For those who have accidentally performed some welding on their car's fender and or motorcycle frames, using a battery and a socket wrench knows - why the brown color garments are appropriate...

Maybe include nomex gloves, the wrench can get pretty hot in temperature..

💩
 
OP here: FWIW Just completed a charging test on my new Li and previous AGM battery. Li full charge was 100% from factory (indicator on top of battery) out of the box installed in my R18. No battery charger used and motorcycle put in storage after two weeks 99%, after 4 weeks, 96%, after 9 weeks 94%. Did a full charge with my NOCO charger set on Li...it took <30 minutes to 100% charge. Now R18 is out of storage. The previous factory AGM in storage last year with no trickle charger; after 2 weeks storage 78%, after 4 weeks 62%...then put on charger, 12 hours to 100% charge (note this was the factory 2 year old AGM). Just an interesting observation and I assume the batteries were drained from R18 factory installed equipment.
 
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1911tex said:
OP here: FWIW Just completed a charging test on my new Li and previous AGM battery. Li full charge was 100% from factory (indicator on top of battery) out of the box installed in my R18. No battery charger used and motorcycle put in storage after two weeks 99%, after 4 weeks, 96%, after 9 weeks 94%. Did a full charge with my NOCO charger set on Li...it took <30 minutes to 100% charge. Now R18 is out of storage. The previous factory AGM in storage last year with no trickle charger; after 2 weeks storage 78%, after 4 weeks 62%...then put on charger, 12 hours to 100% charge (note this was the factory 2 year old AGM). Just an interesting observation and I assume the batteries were drained from R18 factory installed equipment.
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It's all chemistry...
 
1911tex said:

Lithium LiFePO4 Tykool Motorcycle Battery, 12V 18Ah, 800CCA, Built in BMS from Amazon. Cost $200. In my 2021 BMW First Edition. Same size 4.9D x 6.53W x 6.9H. 900amps starting power, 4000 charging cycles. 10 times more starts, 5 times longer life. Weights only 7.2 lbs and has 18amps cold cranking amps. And can be recharged in a few minutes. I always noticed my original AGM battery always struggled a bit to crank the big 1800 cc engine. Now it is like day and night...I don't even hear the starter! I don't ride in very cold weather....only 40 degrees or more, so not a problem. Just thought I would throw this into the mix!​

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1911, Getting near the need for a new battery for my 2021 Classic...wondering if you are still happy with your lithium experience (ie; charging/any warning lights,etc.). Any thoughts would be much appreciated...Thanks
 
The battery is still working well, or at least it starts the bike when I need it to, my garage hasn't burned down and it seems like the BMW charger when set for Li charges it without any issues...

Charging is an extra step as my Model B is an AGM type battery and the First Edition project is Li... I have to go into the Charger menu and switch between the two chemistry types..
 
I installed a lithium iron battery from Shorei in 2 of my bikes. More power, much smaller, weighed literally less than 1/4 what the stock battery weighed, the bike could sit for over 4 months and not self-discharge, mount in any position, when needed (only once)I just used a regular Battery Tender Plus, and not effected by vibration. The batteries in both bikes lasted over 10 years and were working like new then.
 
This thread needs more input. If the lithium ion battery weighs 1/4 that of a stock battery and starts it just as well, then I am sitting forward in my seat.

Is there any reason not to switch? If price is the only negative, shoot, I’m all in.

Will a light weight LI battery disable the warranty?
 
R18 100 said:
This thread needs more input. If the lithium ion battery weighs 1/4 that of a stock battery and starts it just as well, then I am sitting forward in my seat.

Is there any reason not to switch? If price is the only negative, shoot, I’m all in.

Will a light weight LI battery disable the warranty?
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NOT lithium ion - it’s Lithium IRON phosphates- 2 different things. Lithium IRON phosphate IMG_0013.pngIMG_0012.pngdoesn’t overheat and explode or cause a fire like lithium ion. Doesn’t sulfate while sitting. For a big bike up to 20
lbs lighter than lead acid.
 
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I remember reading on an earlier thread, that BMW offers a Li battery as a replacement part and I believe someone commented that a specific model comes stock with a Li battery...

The BMW trickle charger has an option for charging Li type batteries; the Li battery is something that you want to purchase from a reputable company.

Unfortunately, cheap knockoff brands can lead to the battery going catastrophic and ignite; if most folks are like me, I store my bike within my garage, which in most cases are attached to our homes.. a garage fire can quickly extend into the home...

So, if thinking of going with a Li chemistry type battery; I'd recommend buying a high quality and reputable battery brand and a trickle charger that is specifically designed to charge Li types energy storage devices and perhaps interfaces with the battery's integrated BMS.
 
Star-Lord said:
I remember reading on an earlier thread, that BMW offers a Li battery as a replacement part and I believe someone commented that a specific model comes stock with a Li battery...

The BMW trickle charger has an option for charging Li type batteries; the Li battery is something that you want to purchase from a reputable company.

Unfortunately, cheap knockoff brands can lead to the battery going catastrophic and ignite; if most folks are like me, I store my bike within my garage, which in most cases are attached to our homes.. a garage fire can quickly extend into the home...

So, if thinking of going with a Li chemistry type battery; I'd recommend buying a high quality and reputable battery brand and a trickle charger that is specifically designed to charge Li types energy storage devices and perhaps interfaces with the battery's integrated BMS.
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Igniting is why you want lithium iron phosphate not lithium ion
 
1911tex said:
Iaennecr: The battery I posted in the link above is the same size as the original except maybe <1/3" more narrow. I used a very thin piece of closed foam to keep it tight. It fits perfectly which is important as a motorcycle battery must not shift! The rubber strip that secures the front of the original battery is still very effective. Yes the battery is less than half the weight of the original. Inserts very easy..primarily because it is light weight. Best part of using a Li battery is you do not need to keep a charger on the battery if you ride your bike only every couple of weeks or longer. The Li battery holds its charge much longer than an AGM and your bike can quickly recharge it in a fraction of the time it takes to recharge an AGM. It will outlast an AGM. I have the anti-theft disabled so that long-term secure storage makes the drain negligible and the remote key is kept stored at a distance. Note that if you do use a charger...it MUST be Lithium enabled. I cannot understand why someone would not replace a lead acid or AGM motorcycle battery with the latest Lithium generation with LiFePO4 and BMS.
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QUESTION: I installed a Li Iron battery in my R18. Since, while riding and monitoring voltage levels on the onboard instrument readout the charge rate seems very high going up to 18+ volts at times. With the traditional AGM battery I recall 14+ volts but not 18-19. Question is will this over tax the charging system in the long run?
 
I would think there would be a setting or parameter that could be set in either the setup menu or perhaps via a GS-911 OBD-II maintenance tool, that tells the voltage regulator that there is a Li battery vs a standard lead acid AGM battery.

Example: the BMW battery tender has a mode option, based on the battery chemistry (AGM or Li); the Li chemistry battery systems require a BMS (battery management system) in order to prevent the battery from going catastrophic...

I'm still skeptical in installing a Li battery and parking my bike in an attached garage...
 
Star-Lord said:
I would think there would be a setting or parameter that could be set in either the setup menu or perhaps via a GS-911 OBD-II maintenance tool, that tells the voltage regulator that there is a Li battery vs a standard lead acid AGM battery.

Example: the BMW battery tender has a mode option, based on the battery chemistry (AGM or Li); the Li chemistry battery systems require a BMS (battery management system) in order to prevent the battery from going catastrophic...

I'm still skeptical in installing a Li battery and parking my bike in an attached garage...
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As time goes by I will be watching with increasing interest if the Li version gains ground.
I suspect the lighter battery may become commonplace.
 
r12mike said:
QUESTION: I installed a Li Iron battery in my R18. Since, while riding and monitoring voltage levels on the onboard instrument readout the charge rate seems very high going up to 18+ volts at times. With the traditional AGM battery I recall 14+ volts but not 18-19. Question is will this over tax the charging system in the long run?
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This does not sound right.... a lithium (LiFePO4) should sit happily at the normal 14.4v..... all most sounds like it's bms is open circuiting for some reason and the bikes electrical system can then not regulate properly.... make sure the terminals are tight etc.... no loose earth. Generally the battery will take all the current your bike can give it and eventually the bike will settle at max of 14.4v and current would tail off.... no way would the bike regulate to 18v unless it can't see a functioning battery (cells).

In broad terms, lithium act like lead acid.... basically "4 series cells" that are happy in the 13.4 to 14.6 or so voltage range..... So for 18v to be seen the bike's electrical system isn't seeing a functioning battery at that time. So reasons for this could be: bad connection, faulty battery, bms activating to protect cells (over heat, to cold, over current, over voltage, low voltage etc).
 
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