"Fault in the engine control" warning on R18B [SOLVED]

[BeemeR18]

This came up on the display:
"Fault in the engine control
Onward journey possible
Ride carefully to next specialist workshop"

Anyone knows anything about this?

2021 R18B with 6k on the clock.

Had this pop up some 600 miles ago when I first got the bike and it was shipped to me on fuel reserve.. So the first trip was straight to the petrol station 3 miles down the road and I got this warning. Filled up, restarted and the warning disappeared.
Back then the reverse gear recall was still outstanding so I booked the bike at my BMW dealership nearby and asked them to check for any errors - the bike report came clean and the haven't said anything about this fault.

Now it happened again as I ended up on fuel reserve after a longer trip. Exactly the same scenario as above, went to the petrol station and on the way there this shows up?

Is it related to the fuel level being low?




UPDATE: one of the wires going to the exhaust servo had damaged insulation and was shorting to the frame.
See post here https://www.r18forums.com/threads/fault-in-the-engine-control-warning-on-r18b-solved.4736/post-65470

 

[Ulrich]

Do you own a GS-911 or some other OBD diagnostics tool? It will tell you more what is throwing that fault ... the message your on board screen gives you is a bit too generic to make any statements IMO ...
... now it really could be just a low fuel warning ... I have a 'FE' so my readout is even more generic ... but I do get a yellow triangle with an exclamation mark when my fuel is low ...

 

[Rider0974]

Check the condition of the main fuse, 50amp fuse open to the elements,
on the right hand side of the bike behind the side panel. A bit of battery
terminal grease keeps the water off.

 

[Noelpolar]

Ai said this.....

This message, while alarming, indicates that your BMW R18's Engine Control Unit (ECU) has detected a minor or temporary anomaly and is putting the bike into "limp mode" (reduced power). When running on reserve, the trigger often comes down to a few specific fuel and electronic variables: [1, 2]

• Overheated Fuel Pump: The fuel in your tank also acts as a coolant for the in-tank high-pressure fuel pump. When running on low fuel, the pump gets hotter. If it briefly overheats or experiences a voltage drop, it can trigger the ECU to throw an engine control fault. [1, 2]
• Low Fuel Pressure: The ECU relies on precise fuel pressure. When the tank is nearly empty, the fuel pump can sometimes struggle to maintain the required pressure, prompting a fault code. [1]
• Throttle Sensor/Switch Mismatch: R18 riders often experience this message when an electronic sensor gets slightly out of sync. The "limp home" mode is designed to let you ride to a shop safely without causing engine damage. [1]

What you should do now:

1. Refuel immediately: If you are running low on fuel, the most practical step is to get to a petrol station and fill up.
2. Cycle the ignition: After refueling, turn the bike completely off, wait 30 seconds for the computer to reset, and turn it back on. Many times, the fault is a temporary glitch that will clear itself once the system is repressurized.
3. Clear the screen: You can manually dismiss the warning triangle from your TFT screen by pushing the menu/selector wheel to the left. [1, 2, 3, 4]

If the message does not go away or keeps returning even after a full tank, you will need to have a specialist read the diagnostic codes from the ECU to find the exact sensor at fault. [1]
If the problem persists, tell me:

• How long has the bike been showing this warning?
• Does the bike feel like it's running rough or lacking power (limp mode)?
• Has it had its latest software updates applied by a dealer?

 

[Star-Lord]

I read this earlier this morning; and as an R18 Model B owner, I was genuine interested in the root cause.. While out riding this morning, I thought about what would be a helpful response; 1st , I 100% agree with Ulrich in getting a GS-911, especially if you are planning on doing any of the routine Maintenance yourself. 2nd - me personally, would verify that my battery connections are tight and at the correct torque setting. Verify the Positive (+) and Negative (-) or Ground at both ends; plus, I do like the suggestions of checking the Main 50A fuse, as well as the other fuses that are somewhat exposed to the elements.

Without the GS-911 or some other OBD-II tool, I'm not sure there is much to go on; other than, did you drill down within the MY VEHICLE menu and see if there was any additional information within the MESSAGES tab?

Below is what I found in the owners manual; please, let us know what the final root cause turns out to be and or what fault codes got generated for this issue:

 

[BeemeR18]

Thanks all for the feedback!
Was curious whether anyone else got this error-
I was of course going to read the fault code(s) (otherwise the message itself is not very conclusive) - but I was away for a bit and only now had the chance to check the OBD scanner..
It returned a couple of Active Codes:
80402B
3A1112

Anyone using a specific tool to decode these?

This is what I could find:

Code	Label	ECU Variant	ECU Label
80402B	Electrical handlebar lock	x_slz	Keyless Ride
80402B	Electronic immobiliser (EWS): Electrical handlebar lock	x_slz03	Keyless Ride / Tyre Pressure Monitor
80402B	KLR: Electric steering column locking, preconditions for locking are not met	x_slz_4	Keyless Ride

Code	Label	ECU Variant	ECU Label
3A1112	DME: Fuse active: Component group 1	x_bmsmp1	Engine control
3A1112	DME: Fuse active: Component group 1, overload current	x_bmso1	Engine control

 

[Ulrich]

So, not knowing much in regards to error codes in this specific matter ( I don't don't have a chart) I have to assume ... the 80xxxx codes refer to somebody (maybe you) pushing the 'System on' button before the keyless entry detected your [key]FOB (ignore I get them on my ride as well, and they won't throw a 'Engine Fault' light) ... the 3Axxx ones refer to an electrical fault and that you had an over current ... but not enough to blow the fuse ... IMO get an GS-911 (or if you can with your OBD tool) reset the fault ... wait and see if it comes back ... maybe it's just a fluke.
This said ... there seems to be no reference to a mechanical issue ... and that is the good news ... electrical gremlins happen ($hit happens) but they can stop you from riding ... but are never terminal to an engine

... but thats just my 2¢

 

[Star-Lord]

A dip in voltage, drives current up.. so, I'm liking the earlier suggestions in verifying the easy stuff:

Battery connections
Ground Lug
Corroded fuse terminals

At least look at these things, while you wait for your GS-911 to arrive in the mail..

Plus, this will get you familiar with the new ride.

 

[BeemeR18]

Thanks guys, I do find it odd tho, been thinking whether it's caused by the trickle charger being connected to the battery and maybe I've switched on the bike (not the engine) before disconnecting the charger?

I think I'll just clear the code for now and see if it comes back - panels are off so I'll clean the fuse and battery terminals anyway.

Also, I've been using MotoScan and planning to get the UniCarScan UCSI-2100 OBD, any major disadvantages over the GS-911 recommended here?

Cheers

 

[Ulrich]

Thanks guys, I do find it odd tho, been thinking whether it's caused by the trickle charger being connected to the battery and maybe I've switched on the bike (not the engine) before disconnecting the charger?

I think I'll just clear the code for now and see if it comes back - panels are off so I'll clean the fuse and battery terminals anyway.

Also, I've been using MotoScan and planning to get the UniCarScan UCSI-2100 OBD, any major disadvantages over the GS-911 recommended here?

Cheers

Sorry can't help you out there ... I bought the 911 right away and never tried any other one(s) ... but I am sure somebody here can give you that info.

 

[Star-Lord]

Thanks guys, I do find it odd tho, been thinking whether it's caused by the trickle charger being connected to the battery and maybe I've switched on the bike (not the engine) before disconnecting the charger?

I think I'll just clear the code for now and see if it comes back - panels are off so I'll clean the fuse and battery terminals anyway.

Also, I've been using MotoScan and planning to get the UniCarScan UCSI-2100 OBD, any major disadvantages over the GS-911 recommended here?

Cheers

Something is better than nothing... I went with the GS-911 as it allows me to program or enable lights, circuits, options, etc..

Plus, it's a pretty proven tool amongst the BMW community across the different bike platforms

 

[BeemeR18]

Update:

Cleaned the right-hand side fuses which are exposed and there was quite a bit of dirt + oxidization
Also cleaned the battery compartment which was full of mud and I was surprised to find the Negative terminal slightly loose on the battery?!

Battery was disconnected for about 30mins, put everything back, tightened and upon switching ON, the Warning was no longer showing.

I guess I started hoping it was the loose battery terminal but some 2 mins later I turned on the engine, it started very rough and was idling poorly for about a minute then it settled - but another minute running on idle and the Warning came back..

So I am at a loss here, about 2 weeks before the Warning showed, I did the 6K mile service, everything by the book except for the air filter - I installed the SprintFilter and the bike ran great after that, did about 80-100 miles before the Warning.

Could there be anything related to the service, something I could've done wrong to trigger this electrical issue?

 

[Ulrich]

You may have already fixed it ... but if indeed the terminals/battery connections were in that bad a shape it ... that could be a fault that has to be cleared with a tool ... did you clear the fault with an OBD tool of sorts? ... and yes, the dealer could have messed up something at the service ... that is an option ... small probability IMO

 

[BeemeR18]

Hmm switching the bike on after the batt was disconnected for half hour, the error was not showing - I thought the self-check must've cleared it? (I didn't clear the code because I wanted to see if it goes by itself after the fix)

And then as soon as the engine was running, the warning came up again - so maybe this is where I got confused, I thought if the problem is still there, the warning will persist and if I fixed it it will go away (without me tampering with the codes)?

 

[Star-Lord]

Sorry for the long post:

I can definitely see how a loose Negative (-) ground connection can instigate error codes on today's bikes, which are so heavily reliant on electronics.

A quick thought about a loose ground connection; just think about starting the bike and the amperage required to turn the engine over, that amperage or electron flow is supposed to be supported by the heavy gauge (-) ground cable. If that connection is compromised, then that ground connection will utilize other, smaller gauge wiring connections to try and support the electron flow required to turn the engine over; this can easily electrically overstress other components or systems.

In the most simplest terms, the (+) positive gauge cable required to start an engine, should be matched on the (-) Ground connection of a battery; if it takes 30 Amps to physically turn over the engine in order to start the bike, that is the same 30 Amps flowing through the positive and negative cable.

Electrical engineers see electron flow from the positive terminal to a load and returned back through the negative battery terminal; physics professors see electron flow in the reverse direction, from negative to positive.

I always remove the (-) Negative terminal connection at either the battery terminal, or the Ground anchor connection before doing any DC work on my bike, vehicle(s) or RV.

You mentioned mudd, corrosion and loose connections; obviously, this bike wasn't well cared for by its previous owner and it probably deserves some TLC and a good thorough inspection and corrective action along the way. Take shit apart, remove the seat, side panels and inspect the battery jump points for loose connections; this exercise will get you familiar with your new bike at the very least, and hopefully solve the root cause of your errors.. which is or was the loose ground connection.

Keep cleaning up the fuse connections and perhaps other electrical connections; see about retrieving any recorded error codes and perhaps try clearing them and take it from there.

 

[fleabag]

Undervoltage, such as from a loose battery terminal can cause all kinds of strange errors. I’ve experienced this firsthand in my own vehicles. On my R18, after a reverse recall where the dealer failed to properly tighten the negative battery terminal, I noticed the voltage fluctuating on the dash readout, along with spring strut fault error messages.

 

[BeemeR18]

I've been taking stuff apart, I've cleaned connectors, contacts, fuse holders - error would not clear. I was able to delete most codes except for 2 which keep coming back:

P0659 / 3A1112

Some other forums mentioned this 3A1112 fault code apparently having to do with oxygen sensors and others had to replace ignition coils.

The following operations are listed on https://bmwfault.codes/DiagView?id=MjAwMDA2NTg1NDQ4MjgwNQ== for the 3A1112 code:

Disconnect all components specified below and delete the fault memory.
With all components disconnected, if the fault memory entry is
present: Check the wiring harness for insulation damage.
not present: Reconnect all components step by step until the fault is entered again.
Components of the component group 1:
Oxygen sensors
Camshaft position sensor
If installed:
Exhaust flap actuator
Reversing assistant servomotor
Fuel vent valve
Secondary air injection valve
DISA servomotor

I went ahead and disconnected each coil, cleaned the contacts & connectors, put everything back, code still wouldn't clear.

Went for a 10 mile ride and this new warning pops up: 'Drive! Have it checked by a specialist workshop.'
This one was new but it cleared right away when I got home, haven't ridden again to see if it comes back.

 

[Ulrich]

So oddd ... are your exhaust servos still connected ?

 

[jp R18T]

J'ai eu le même problème, par intermittence, une bobine était la cause de ces défauts !
la concession a changé cette bobine et plus rien .

 

[jp R18T]

J'ai eu le même problème, par intermittence, une bobine était la cause de ces défauts !
la concession a changé cette bobine et plus rien .

PPour Info ma TC est de 2022 et 34000 kms . Faites vérifier si il y a des messages d’erreurs concernant les bobines par BMW .