What did you do to your R18 today?

Well.... lucky for some I am not god...... it took me 3.5 hours to get the left fork stanchion cap off.... this was my progress at the 2hr mark:

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anyway... at the 2hr mark I had cursed the "bmw engineer" that specified threadlocker on it..... at the 3hr mark I'd moved on to all his/hers decendants as well.... so lucky for them I'm not god.....

All done now.... went for a quick ride and came back uninjured... so looking promising.
 
Noelpolar said:
Haha..... like you I had this today.....

View attachment 10337


Normally A one minute unscrew .... that just kept on giving THIS TIME.... for quite some time.... luckily I don't charge myself per hour.....

I tried some heat (hot air gun on fork stanchion)... and needed a 2ft bar on the spanner for leverage and still struggled for a bit.

I did one fork today.... will find a few hours tomorrow to do the other.

View attachment 10339 View attachment 10338

The two 6mm damping rod compression holes became six 8mm.... and 2.5 turns preload on emulator spring and in went the Wilbers spring, 7.5w fork oil with 120mm air gap and cut 15mm off spacer (emulator thickness).... ànd no threadlocker on fork cap....haha.
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The two 6mm damping rod comp. holes became six 8mm holes / cut 15 mm off spacer. Is there a magic formula or past experience determining these figures ? Thanks, B.
 
kate_brett said:
The two 6mm damping rod comp. holes became six 8mm holes / cut 15 mm off spacer. Is there a magic formula or past experience determining these figures ? Thanks, B.
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There are instructions that come with the Valves.... not bike specific.... but fork/valve size specific.... (so how many and what size holes, valve spring preload setting and spring option) with my R Nine T scrambler there were many on that forum that had went before....... so they had shared their experience with oil viscosity etc.... so that was easy... once you look into person size, riding style etc.

These valves are quite tune'able.... but we are not racing "old bikes" looking for 10th's of a second on track..... so I've not bothered going past basic settings. I'm mostly after a spring that suits my weight (85kg in gear... no pillion ever).... slightly better controlled rebound dampening and much better "high speed" compression dampening (the basic forks mostly have none.... think harshness on sharp edged bumps... especially when front end is loaded a bit).

I'll report back in a week or so how I find it....as need to ride a bit on the roads I know.... first impressions are positive.... I just need to get through my "fork cap removal" thearapy.
 
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Hit 5,970 Miles and One day short of the 365 day warning of a service. Best ever hitting both 6K & 1 year. I'm pretty proud of myself.

Tonight:
  1. Engine Oil + Filter

Tomorrow:
  1. Air Filter (due at 15K)
  2. Spark Plugs (due at 24K)
  3. Final drive fluid (due at 12K)
  4. Reset service reminder with GS-911

Will have the dealer do the valve checks because I'm only 8 weeks out from rotator cuff surgery and without a lift, finding TDC all by myself and just dealing with that mess is not something I feel like doing yet. Dealer should charge no more than $150 for it and I believe they said there's a recall and I'll have them look over the bike as it's been in-service for one year and I like the peace of mind.

Regarding the other stuff being done early, I like doing stuff early. Makes me feel good.
 
adamchandler said:
Hit 5,970 Miles and One day short of the 365 day warning of a service. Best ever hitting both 6K & 1 year. I'm pretty proud of myself.

Tonight:
  1. Engine Oil + Filter

Tomorrow:
  1. Air Filter (due at 15K)
  2. Spark Plugs (due at 24K)
  3. Final drive fluid (due at 12K)
  4. Reset service reminder with GS-911

Will have the dealer do the valve checks because I'm only 8 weeks out from rotator cuff surgery and without a lift, finding TDC all by myself and just dealing with that mess is not something I feel like doing yet. Dealer should charge no more than $150 for it and I believe they said there's a recall and I'll have them look over the bike as it's been in-service for one year and I like the peace of mind.

Regarding the other stuff being done early, I like doing stuff early. Makes me feel good.
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I'm curious as to how much the dealership discounts the cost of the 6k service, doing just the valve check-adjustment; will you fill out the service book, logging your own work?

I guess keeping receipts and such is necessary, for any future warranty claims?

I was looking at taking the same approach as you, where I would purchase the necessary fluids, filters and crush washers and perform the 6K maintenance items; however, let the dealership perform the valve check, brake fluid and service light reset - at a discounted cost...

I was planning on having that conversation with the BMW service manager this Saturday, while my Adaptive Headlight is being diagnosed.
 
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Scott Semone said:
I'm curious as to how much the dealership discounts the cost of the 6k service, doing just the valve check-adjustment; will you fill out the service book, logging your own work?

I guess keeping receipts and such is necessary, for any future warranty claims?

I was looking at taking the same approach as you, where I would purchase the necessary fluids, filters and crush washers and perform the 6K maintenance items; however, let the dealership perform the valve check, brake fluid and service light reset - at a discounted cost...

I was planning on having that conversation with the BMW service manager this Saturday, while my Adaptive Headlight is being diagnosed.
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I’m a millenial (sorry) but having sold about 6 motorcycles in the last 6 years, no one has ever asked for to look at my service book or any dealer signatures nor has any dealer ever filled it out. I do however log all of my work in a spreadsheet and I print this out for the new buyer and it’s sufficient. For warranty work, I’ve never had a failure that could have been avoided with regular maintenance so this has never been an issue.

I do support my dealer though by purchasing all parts from them so I guess if the motor does grenade itself, the parts manager can print out all of my receipts attached to my VIN showing that I purchased BMW Oil, Filter, crush washers and G3 fluid for the final drive from them.
 
adamchandler said:
I’m a millenial (sorry) but having sold about 6 motorcycles in the last 6 years, no one has ever asked for to look at my service book or any dealer signatures nor has any dealer ever filled it out. I do however log all of my work in a spreadsheet and I print this out for the new buyer and it’s sufficient. For warranty work, I’ve never had a failure that could have been avoided with regular maintenance so this has never been an issue.

I do support my dealer though by purchasing all parts from them so I guess if the motor does grenade itself, the parts manager can print out all of my receipts attached to my VIN showing that I purchased BMW Oil, Filter, crush washers and G3 fluid for the final drive from them.
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The Electrical Engineer in me requires that the dealership, as well as my own work be logged within the service book; I sold my 2008 GS Adventure with 96k+ miles on it, and I believe I was able to get my asking price because I had everything documented... that sale made my R18 B purchase possible.

I plan on purchasing the parts from my dealership, I agree with your approach and hope it offsets the reduced service cost. Plus, doing the maintenance at home is pure therapy for me..
 
Noelpolar said:
I finished all my R18 modifications. Yes.... nothing more to do or spend ever*.


* I only typed that in case the wife reads this forum..... whilst unlikely.... she has an uncanny way knowing what I'm up to.
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LOL

I'm going to try and drop my bike off later today at the service shop, in order for them to investigate the Adaptive Headlight issue; as well as, purchase the 6k maintenance items. It looks like the transmission takes three (3) bottles of the same fluid used in the rear drive; that in itself is going to exceed $200. Not to mention crush rings and gaskets, engine oil, air and oil filter... Oh yeah.. oil filter wrench..
 
Scott Semone said:
I'm going to try and drop my bike off later today at the service shop, in order for them to investi
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Great plan, look forward to hearing how it works out. I brought TC by my dealer and we saw the adaptive headlight seemed to be working to some extent, and although seemed slightly off center. Next time in we'll be looking at it more closely. I expect we'll be able to learn more about it in the meanwhile. Thanks for the update!
 
Scott Semone said:
LOL

I'm going to try and drop my bike off later today at the service shop, in order for them to investigate the Adaptive Headlight issue; as well as, purchase the 6k maintenance items. It looks like the transmission takes three (3) bottles of the same fluid used in the rear drive; that in itself is going to exceed $200. Not to mention crush rings and gaskets, engine oil, air and oil filter... Oh yeah.. oil filter wrench..
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Purchased the following yesterday:
5 bottles of engine oil
Oil filter
Oil filter wrench
Crush rings and O Ring for engine/rear drive
4 bottles transmission & rear drive oil
And an Air Filter
$482.92
 
So.... a couple of rides over the last few days trying to get my Wilbers rear shock dialed in.

This included a call to the supplier to discuss both the chance of the shock being faulty, specced wrong and also a set up discusion..... after I initially struggled to attain an "ah ha" moment... went back to it.... still no "ah ha" in my day. Sad moment pause................................... for effect.

So.... when I bought a Nitron rear shock for my BMW scrambler.... all went as one would expect in a shock set up 101 course..... set sag.... adjust dampening... ride.... adjust from there etc.... all good.... not so with the R18.

I'm feeling like I need give up on my expectation ride wise on this bike.... and settle for more compliant at low speed (<45mph) with high speed harshness (just "ok" metro.... but poor on our country roads) or just more harsh everywhere.

Off course I'll keep playing.... maybe need a progresive spring?

Ok... that's a bit off my liver...... now to be practicle..... I'm going back to the basics..... measure everything to the mm.... set rider sag to about 25% of travel.... done....check static sag.... done.... both look ok.... so spring rate is in the ball park.... 25mm of shock thread measured (came with preload set at 33mm).... compress rear.... observe rebound.... adjust to positiom 4 from full open (came set about 11).... compress centre of bike.... front and rear appear to be in sync.... but big bike with not much travel.... and just me.... so hard to say..... note all settings in book....go for ride.... raining... duh!

I think if I am going to be successful (for my riding enviromemt) with only 90mm of travel to play with.... I can't be to wasteful of travel by over doing rider sag..... so 25%.... not 30%.....and will need to probally trade off tyre wear for more tyre "give"...... so lower tyre pressures.... maybe 28 to 30psi in rear.....

Part of an underlying issue I have is.... I love the bike and want to ride it everywhere.....

Also... added some expensive wunderich knee pads to the tank.... same texture as the seat..... so match well.... also did a ceramic paint treatment.

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Noelpolar said:
So.... a couple of rides over the last few days trying to get my Wilbers rear shock dialed in.

This included a call to the supplier to discuss both the chance of the shock being faulty, specced wrong and also a set up discusion..... after I initially struggled to attain an "ah ha" moment... went back to it.... still no "ah ha" in my day. Sad moment pause................................... for effect.

So.... when I bought a Nitron rear shock for my BMW scrambler.... all went as one would expect in a shock set up 101 course..... set sag.... adjust dampening... ride.... adjust from there etc.... all good.... not so with the R18.

I'm feeling like I need give up on my expectation ride wise on this bike.... and settle for more compliant at low speed (<45mph) with high speed harshness (just "ok" metro.... but poor on our country roads) or just more harsh everywhere.

Off course I'll keep playing.... I wish I could return the shock and get a Nitron.

I might put the stock shock back on to recalibrate my brain.... I'm feeling the wilbers has brought nothing to the party... which seems silly.

Ok... that's a bit off my liver......
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How’s the front end setup ?
 
kate_brett said:
How’s the front end setup ?
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I'm still undergoing trauma thearapy about that...... beer and wine didn't work.... but with the assistance of Irish Whisky I think I am on the road to recovery.

I am positive about the changes I made to the forks..... but my expectation was much less then I had for the rear shock..... I haven't posted on my thoughts after a few rides...... mainly because I like to make sure what I think I'm noticing is real versus some cognitive bias sillyness.... and I really only get to do a proper 1 hr plus ride a week that isn't local go to the shops stuff.... and I've been rear end focussed... I guess that says something....

Anyway..... since you asked..... 1st up nothing negetive..... the springing seems good..... I didn't worry about sag etc.... the fork pretty bits get in the way of what I would normally do (zip clip on fork stantion etc).... rebound dampening with slightly thinner oil (7.5w) seems to be good..... and I've played with shopping centre speed humps to see how the high speed compresion responds and that is better..... but.... the unsprung weight on the front end is pretty high.... so one has to have reasonable expectations.

At this point..... if the bike was a 2yr bike I wouldn't bother..... if a long term keeper I would bother..... but maybe find someone to "pull the cork" on the fork tubes.... and oil viscosity might need rethinking if one lives in a hot enviroment and does all day rides etc.
 
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