The Big Handlebar Thread

Scott Semone said:
I'm 5' 9" with a 30" inseam and also jumped off of a GS Adventure and onto the R18 B; I also preferred the bar setup on my old GS, perhaps I'll take on the adjustment this weekend or next.

I'm going to review the TFT screen protector installation document, in order to get at the handlebar mounting bolts.
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Was taking a look Scott and you definitely need to take the TFT screen out before you can get to the boltsIMG_3123.jpeg
 
I've finally gotten used to the "hips forward" riding position. Ridden this way, the stock bars aren't so bad. I did get some grip puppies for Christmas and those have been fantastic.
 
Scott Semone said:
I'm 5' 9" with a 30" inseam and also jumped off of a GS Adventure and onto the R18 B; I also preferred the bar setup on my old GS, perhaps I'll take on the adjustment this weekend or next.

I'm going to review the TFT screen protector installation document, in order to get at the handlebar mounting bolts.
Click to expand...

Scott, you're welcome to come try my set up, I have the Helibars. Am in East Brunswick.

@RhoXS
I have short arms, and put on the Helibars. They don't give you more reach but the angle makes the reach easier. I think once I add the utopia backrest to scooch myself up an inch or so it will be perfect.

Here's my riding position:
 
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gentster said:
I'll comment on the procedure since I have done this several times. The stock position allows for a bit over an inch of clearance between the bar and the top of the opening (see attached image). I found that the following can be done within an hour:
1. Remove wind screen - 6 bolts
2. Remove leather cover - 2 bolts, 4 clips
3. Remove instrument cluster - 5 bolts, 2 clips, disconnect two connectors - bonus tip: if you cut the zip tie that holds the connector in the back of the panel, feed a new one before you replace the panel.
4. Remove TFT cover - 2 clips
5. Remove only the top 2 bolts from each speaker cover, left and right
6. Remove the remaining 6 bolts and slide out the TFT towards the bottom. There are two connectors in the back, which you need to disconnect.
7. You can now see the 4 bolts on the triple tree. You can loosen only the bottom two and the bars will rotate. Access to the top ones is a bit restricted, so you will need a smaller socket or a skinny one, just be careful when tightening them.

The only thing I'll add is that when you push the bar up, the clutch line gets really tight, so you may need to be aware of that.

Gent
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For those that have rotated their TC or Model B handlebars forward, closing the the space between the bars and the fairing; how close is too close, has anyone noted rattling and or contact between the handlebars and the fairing while riding? I've been thinking about trying this adjustment; however, I noticed that there is a specific marker on the handlebar which aligns with the lower clamp block:

See the fourth bullet below, where it calls out the marker.

1708779330284.png
 
The promise of 55 - 60° F weather today was a bust... So I decided to rotate my R18 B bars slightly forward within the space allowable; to my surprise, it was extremely easy and seems like a more comfortable position and or fit for my arms & hands.

The dissembling of the fairing/dash is pretty straightforward; I didn't remove the two front speaker grills and was still able to remove the TFT screen without any issues.

Once the TFT screen is removed, it's a wide open straight shot to the handlebar block screws with a T-40 Torx (Torque 24 Nm).

Again, the weather today here in the Northeast sucks... So I can't provide any feedback on the actual riding comfort at this time, but will report back once I get a couple of rides under my belt...
 
As I understand it, the Heli-bar change out is quite a surgery. Someone on this forum said it required unthreading over 50 fasteners. But on the upside, I have yet to hear of anyone who was not happy with the change.
 
Scott Semone said:
The promise of 55 - 60° F weather today was a bust... So I decided to rotate my R18 B bars slightly forward within the space allowable; to my surprise, it was extremely easy and seems like a more comfortable position and or fit for my arms & hands.

The dissembling of the fairing/dash is pretty straightforward; I didn't remove the two front speaker grills and was still able to remove the TFT screen without any issues.

Once the TFT screen is removed, it's a wide open straight shot to the handlebar block screws with a T-40 Torx (Torque 24 Nm).

Again, the weather today here in the Northeast sucks... So I can't provide any feedback on the actual riding comfort at this time, but will report back once I get a couple of rides under my belt...
Click to expand...

I was able to get out for a ride today (65° - 54° F) , since adjusting my handlebars; first thing I noticed, my bike was reporting that it needed to be serviced on the TFT screen...

I noted that the time and date was drastically off; I corrected the Time & Date, and the Service Notification triangle disappeared.

In hindsight, I'm figuring that the Date & Time was cleared when I disconnected the TFT during the process of adjusting the handlebars...

Handlebars... The new position felt good, definitely different; however, I found it a bit difficult to adjust mirrors to a point which allows me to see without raising my head height. It appeared that I exhausted the adjustment range on the mirror; I pulled on the mirror again when we stopped and Voila, everything was back to perfect...

Screenshot_20240317-192116.png
 
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