The Big Handlebar Thread

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RhoXS

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Ok, so it's no secret that the B/TC handlebars are just horrible. So, rather than bitching, I'm gonna fix it. Since surgically extending my arms is cost prohibitive, it looks like replacing the bars is on the menu.

In this thread, I'd like to hear from folks who have successfully remediated the handlebars and from others who are aware of options we may have.

I'm currently considering Helibars, but it would nice to know the other options we have, including custom handlebars.
 
Had my stock bars rotated up a bit by the dealer so that my forearms are about parallel to the ground. Very happy with them after that & the installation of Grip Puppies.
It required the mechanic to remove the windshield, dash & fairing. Don't recall how long that took 'cause I had it done at the 600-mile service. He said it was no problem doing it. The whole service appointment took 2-3 hours, IIRC.
For reference, I'm 5'10" with 30" inseam so my arms ain't very long.
 
Just ordered my helibars and wish there were videos out there to guide the installation. The trickiest part seems to be the extension of the brake and clutch lines. Don't think i planned to top them up after replacing. Especially if the level is within acceptable range.

Any videos of photos of the replacement of Helibars would be greatly appreciated.
 
Did anyone install Helibars or other custom handlebars on a Bagger or TC? I need to get more reach but it seems that Helibars point up and not sure how much more reach they would provide. I also saw another thread about KST Kustoms, but they clearly provide even less reach.

Any feedback is appreciated.
 
Ulrich said:
Go Apes .... 😁
Click to expand...
Easier said than done, I have to figure out which ones to order. Have been reading about handlebar specs and dimensions, creating models, but now I need to find the right bars. Apparently Indian Scouts also use the 7/8 inch bar ends, so that might provide a few options.
 
Cu Dubh said:
Had my stock bars rotated up a bit by the dealer so that my forearms are about parallel to the ground. Very happy with them after that & the installation of Grip Puppies.
It required the mechanic to remove the windshield, dash & fairing. Don't recall how long that took 'cause I had it done at the 600-mile service. He said it was no problem doing it. The whole service appointment took 2-3 hours, IIRC.
For reference, I'm 5'10" with 30" inseam so my arms ain't very long.
Click to expand...

Do you have any close up pictures of the space between the handlebars & fairing? I see there's a little space between the fairing and the bars on my Model B; I assume it requires loosening the four bolts securing the bars on the triple tree, and pushing the bars forward and tightening?

Do the bars touch the fairing?
 
gentster said:
Easier said than done, I have to figure out which ones to order. Have been reading about handlebar specs and dimensions, creating models, but now I need to find the right bars. Apparently Indian Scouts also use the 7/8 inch bar ends, so that might provide a few options.
Click to expand...
BMW offers the 'Great Apes' ... with all that one needs ... hydraulic lines and wires ;)

December 29th.jpeg

No worries about fit ...
 
Scott Semone said:
Do you have any close up pictures of the space between the handlebars & fairing? I see there's a little space between the fairing and the bars on my Model B; I assume it requires loosening the four bolts securing the bars on the triple tree, and pushing the bars forward and tightening?

Do the bars touch the fairing?
Click to expand...
I'll comment on the procedure since I have done this several times. The stock position allows for a bit over an inch of clearance between the bar and the top of the opening (see attached image). I found that the following can be done within an hour:
1. Remove wind screen - 6 bolts
2. Remove leather cover - 2 bolts, 4 clips
3. Remove instrument cluster - 5 bolts, 2 clips, disconnect two connectors - bonus tip: if you cut the zip tie that holds the connector in the back of the panel, feed a new one before you replace the panel.
4. Remove TFT cover - 2 clips
5. Remove only the top 2 bolts from each speaker cover, left and right
6. Remove the remaining 6 bolts and slide out the TFT towards the bottom. There are two connectors in the back, which you need to disconnect.
7. You can now see the 4 bolts on the triple tree. You can loosen only the bottom two and the bars will rotate. Access to the top ones is a bit restricted, so you will need a smaller socket or a skinny one, just be careful when tightening them.

The only thing I'll add is that when you push the bar up, the clutch line gets really tight, so you may need to be aware of that.

Gent
 

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gentster said:
I'll comment on the procedure since I have done this several times. The stock position allows for a bit over an inch of clearance between the bar and the top of the opening (see attached image). I found that the following can be done within an hour:
1. Remove wind screen - 6 bolts
2. Remove leather cover - 2 bolts, 4 clips
3. Remove instrument cluster - 5 bolts, 2 clips, disconnect two connectors - bonus tip: if you cut the zip tie that holds the connector in the back of the panel, feed a new one before you replace the panel.
4. Remove TFT cover - 2 clips
5. Remove only the top 2 bolts from each speaker cover, left and right
6. Remove the remaining 6 bolts and slide out the TFT towards the bottom. There are two connectors in the back, which you need to disconnect.
7. You can now see the 4 bolts on the triple tree. You can loosen only the bottom two and the bars will rotate. Access to the top ones is a bit restricted, so you will need a smaller socket or a skinny one, just be careful when tightening them.

The only thing I'll add is that when you push the bar up, the clutch line gets really tight, so you may need to be aware of that.

Gent
Click to expand...
Excellent write-up.
 
Ulrich said:
BMW offers the 'Great Apes' ... with all that one needs ... hydraulic lines and wires ;)

View attachment 12955
gentster said:
I'll comment on the procedure since I have done this several times. The stock position allows for a bit over an inch of clearance between the bar and the top of the opening (see attached image). I found that the following can be done within an hour:
1. Remove wind screen - 6 bolts
2. Remove leather cover - 2 bolts, 4 clips
3. Remove instrument cluster - 5 bolts, 2 clips, disconnect two connectors - bonus tip: if you cut the zip tie that holds the connector in the back of the panel, feed a new one before you replace the panel.
4. Remove TFT cover - 2 clips
5. Remove only the top 2 bolts from each speaker cover, left and right
6. Remove the remaining 6 bolts and slide out the TFT towards the bottom. There are two connectors in the back, which you need to disconnect.
7. You can now see the 4 bolts on the triple tree. You can loosen only the bottom two and the bars will rotate. Access to the top ones is a bit restricted, so you will need a smaller socket or a skinny one, just be careful when tightening them.

The only thing I'll add is that when you push the bar up, the clutch line gets really tight, so you may need to be aware of that.

Gent
Click to expand...


No worries about fit ...
Click to expand...
:ROFLMAO: Wow!! Got it down to each detailed step, sad a lot of this sounds familiar already :ROFLMAO: Great job, way to break it down!!!
 
Scott Semone said:
Do you have any close up pictures of the space between the handlebars & fairing? I see there's a little space between the fairing and the bars on my Model B; I assume it requires loosening the four bolts securing the bars on the triple tree, and pushing the bars forward and tightening?

Do the bars touch the fairing?
Click to expand...
Scott, my apologies as I read this post a couple days ago but I didn't realize it was meanr for me.
The bars and fairing still have plenty of clearance after my bsrscwete rotated up.
 

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Cu Dubh said:
Scott, my apologies as I read this post a couple days ago but I didn't realize it was meanr for me.
The bars and fairing still have plenty of clearance after my bsrscwete rotated up.
Click to expand...

Thank you... Overall, did you notice an improvement in the grip position by moving the bars forward; I'm trying to decide if I want disassemble my fairing AGAIN and whether or not the effort is worth it.

I can't say that I have been unhappy with the stock grip position; however, if I were assembling or designing the bike, I feel like I would have the grips a little flatter and out vs pointing slightly back and downward.

I visually compared the two handlebar options, using the Motorrad virtual configuration tool; where i am focusing on the grip positioning, and wish my grips where more like the bigger bar option.

I'm thinking your solution will cost me nothing in trying, and give me some wrench time on the bike during the off season...
 
Hi Scott,
I've only had the bar re-positioned the one time, by the dealer. I prefer to have my forearms roughly parallel with the ground when astride the bike.

As delivered, the bars were lower than was comfortable to me. This is probably because I'm used to my GS bars, which are set up higher than stock and rotated forward a bit, using the stock bar and after-market clamps.

I also added Grip Puppies as the stock grip diameter was uncomfortably small for me. I'm very satisfied with my current set-up. Because it matters I'm 5'10", 30" inseam, 34" sleeve length.

Regarding the time investment, it is a bit more fiddling around and I cheated a bit by having the dealer do it during a scheduled service. To me it's well worth itvas my wrists, shoulders and neck all appreciate the better ergonomics, especially on a 300-400 mile day.
 
Cu Dubh said:
Hi Scott,
I've only had the bar re-positioned the one time, by the dealer. I prefer to have my forearms roughly parallel with the ground when astride the bike.

As delivered, the bars were lower than was comfortable to me. This is probably because I'm used to my GS bars, which are set up higher than stock and rotated forward a bit, using the stock bar and after-market clamps.

I also added Grip Puppies as the stock grip diameter was uncomfortably small for me. I'm very satisfied with my current set-up. Because it matters I'm 5'10", 30" inseam, 34" sleeve length.

Regarding the time investment, it is a bit more fiddling around and I cheated a bit by having the dealer do it during a scheduled service. To me it's well worth itvas my wrists, shoulders and neck all appreciate the better ergonomics, especially on a 300-400 mile day.
Click to expand...

I'm 5' 9" with a 30" inseam and also jumped off of a GS Adventure and onto the R18 B; I also preferred the bar setup on my old GS, perhaps I'll take on the adjustment this weekend or next.

I'm going to review the TFT screen protector installation document, in order to get at the handlebar mounting bolts.
 
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