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Shifting friction zone (clutch)

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Ischa

Ischa

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May 14, 2022
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Bmw R18, Honda Rebel 500
Hi,
I noticed that after a long ride the clutch friction zone shifts more towards the handlebar.
So less "decouple" zone and more "clutch" zone.
Is this normal because the hydraulic fluid of the clutch gets warm when riding?
Im not seeing it as a problem but im wondering if any of you have the same experience with your bikes.
 
I have never experienced this but then again, long rides for me at 3hrs max at the time and mainly on free flowing traffic. I also commute to work for about 1.5hrs and that has a mixture of highway and congested traffic in the city but my clutch so far has been pretty good. I don’t think the fluid gets warm but the clutch will, with constant feathering or use, we have a dry clutch set up. Define the use and long rides for you and maybe we can identify your issues. How many miles/km have you covered so far in your bike?
 
I haven't noticed any differences in the approximate "friction" zone after long days of riding; the clutch friction zone, appears to be pretty consistent in terms of muscle memory for me. I like the dry clutch, and the overall clutch design which is self-coupling in order to provide the necessary torque.
 
Aprox 12000km (~7500 miles) of use. When doing rides with slow speed, nothing seem to be going on. But after a long ride on the highway the clutch thing happens. But after a little while it goed back to normal. (It is not a lot of change but enough to accidentally stall the bike when not paying attention)
 
It should not change. The clutch plate temp has no effect on the hydraulics.
So if it indeed does change, I would bleed the system. Temperature soak of lóóng rides does affect any air inside.

Enough free play on the lever thus the rest also is important.
 
I think it has something to do with temperature. That when the fluid gets hot it expends and so it will change the friction zone
 
Since im the only one facing this problem. I might going to get it checked next service
 
Ischa said:
Since im the only one facing this problem. I might going to get it checked next service
Click to expand...
Perhaps, it is simply explained as physical fatigue...?

Maybe you are physically tired on the later part of your ride, where the clutch work is the result of your own fatigue; I recently mounted a RAM cup holder on my Model B, because I have a tendency NOT to properly hydrate while out on long distance rides... which induces fatigue that absolutely affects my riding skills..
 
Good tip. But i dont think so. This happens when feeling fit and not fit
 
Have you made any upgrades that would change the clutch system? New handlebars, new levers, new reservoirs, hydraulic cables, etc..

Maybe just pop the cover off of the clutch reservoir and check the level... Finger the clutch lever rapidly and see if you see any air bubbles.. if so, keep working the lever until you don't see any additional bubbles..
 
Star-Lord said:
Have you made any upgrades that would change the clutch system? New handlebars, new levers, new reservoirs, hydraulic cables, etc..

Maybe just pop the cover off of the clutch reservoir and check the level... Finger the clutch lever rapidly and see if you see any air bubbles.. if so, keep working the lever until you don't see any additional bubbles..
Click to expand...
Operating the clutch (or brake for that matter) with the lid and rubber off, can be confusing and messy because of the compensation bleed which can spout fluid. Best not operate rapidly. Slowly will do just fine. Have the bike inclined such and the handlebars turned so the lever side is up.
 
Star-Lord said:
Have you made any upgrades that would change the clutch system? New handlebars, new levers, new reservoirs, hydraulic cables, etc..

Maybe just pop the cover off of the clutch reservoir and check the level... Finger the clutch lever rapidly and see if you see any air bubbles.. if so, keep working the lever until you don't see any additional bubbles..
Click to expand...
Everything is stock. I will check the oil soon
 
If it all checks out and you would like the clutch to "firm up a bit" or get the activation point a bit further out, one can adjust the lever "piston" a bit further in relative to the lever.... so less lever travel before activation.

I tuned both my clutch and front brake to give me optimal take up when I replaced the levers. Off course this is different to how far the lever is set from the bars. There is a locking grub screw that is accesable from undernearth and then the piston is adjusted from the end. Best to read up on it before playing as one can stuff it up and it has bad consequences (slipping clutch, locked front brake).

I will say I do notice what you described to some extent. It might be normal and we are just "sensitives". Maybe we have shorter fingers so lever is set less "out" so we notice it? And maybe we are 2/3 finger pullers.... so a finger between lever and grip.... etc.
 
Last edited:
Noelpolar said:
If it all checks out and you would like the clutch to "firm up a bit" or get the activation point a bit further out, one can adjust the lever "piston" a bit further in relative to the lever.... so less lever travel before activation.

I tuned both my clutch and front brake to give me optimal take up when I replaced the levers. Off course this is different to how far the lever is set from the bars. There is a locking grub screw that is accesable from undernearth and then the piston is adjusted from the end. Best to read up on it before playing as one can stuff it up and it has bad consequences (slipping clutch, locked front brake).

I will say I do notice what you described to some extent. It might be normal and we are just "sensitives". Maybe we have shorter fingers so lever is set less "out" so we notice it? And maybe we are 2/3 finger pullers.... so a finger between lever and grip.... etc.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the insight. I do wonder if it's normal because the difference is close to minimal. using 2/3 finger is general what i use too.
 
For what it’s worth, the clutch pull on my R18 requires about 3 times less force than on the 2024 Street Glide.
(HD riders don’t like hydraulic clutches I guess)
 
BER18 100 said:
For what it’s worth, the clutch pull on my R18 requires about 3 times less force than on the 2024 Street Glide.
(HD riders don’t like hydraulic clutches I guess)
Click to expand...
I guess HD's are for real men 🙃
 
I have definitely noticed this toward the end of my rides. I have thought it related to high temperature and a possible flexing of the disengage fingers in the clutch. It is something that occurs with my Triumph T100 as well. It becomes, for example, more difficult to shift into neutral when the clutch doesn’t to seem to release as well.
 
R18BOXR said:
I have definitely noticed this toward the end of my rides. I have thought it related to high temperature and a possible flexing of the disengage fingers in the clutch. It is something that occurs with my Triumph T100 as well. It becomes, for example, more difficult to shift into neutral when the clutch doesn’t to seem to release as well.
Click to expand...
Glad im not the only one. In the next months im going to try the suggestions provided by others in this
 
*Glad im not the only one. Im going to try the suggestions provided by the others.
 
I remain baffled. One of the perks of hydraulic actuation is that the pressure point does not change. See cars as example. The same thing gets a lót hotter in that application yet it stays the same as it should no?!

As such there is probably air in the system or not enough free play in the set up.

Also surprised that nobody has sorted it as it is rather unfun on such a HEAVY motorbike.

Referring to heavy clutches (and brake for that matter); I had a Laverda 750 and a 1000....
 
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