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R18 Transcontinental Tips for easier riding

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Slotheadslim

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R18 Transcontinental
Hello,

I have a R18 Transcontinental. My previous bike was an R18 Classic. I’ve been finding it hard to get the transcontinental to stop smoothly. At 940lbs I found it can be a handful at slow speeds and I have a tendency to get front end dive when stopping. I wanted to give a quick list of things that I have done to my riding and some things that I have had done to the bike that might help you have a better riding experience. Some of these things are extremely basic or you may not agree with me on certain riding techniques, which is fine. I’m only sharing what works for me, so use what you can.

Best,

Tom
  • Get the rear brake of the Transcontinental adjusted so that there is less play. The rear brake on the Transcontinental, at least for me, had way too much travel so when stopping if I didn’t stop fast enough with using the rear brake and front brake I was grabbing the front brake lever too hard which caused the front forks to dive which then makes the bike difficult to control. The bike became WAY EASIER to brake smoothly for me with the rear brake engaging earlier so that I had more equal braking between the front and rear brakes.
  • Consider getting a seat pad or getting a higher seat. I find sitting up higher helps me be more comfortable and I think I have better control. I got a seat pad that raises me on the seat an inch which has helped my comfort and I think I maneuver better too. I bought a SKYJDM foldable motorcycle gel seat cushion off of Amazon for around $40.00 as a short term solution. This winter I plan to order a Russell Day-Long replacement seat.
  • Use only the rear brake during slow speed maneuvers. I take my right hand off the front brake lever when doing parking lot maneuvers to slow down for turns. For full stops I continue to use both brake levers.
  • Ride the clutch friction zone during slow/tight parking lot maneuvers with using the rear brake to slow you down and keep control.
  • Make sure you turn your head into the direction of a turn. We have a tendency to look straight ahead even when we should be turning our head. You go in the direction you are looking in.
  • Make sure you are going fast enough to turn. If you are going too slow and you lose momentum, you are fighting the weight of the bike and you will have difficulty turning adequately or you could drop it.
  • Use the front and rear brakes evenly when stopping, even during an emergency, otherwise the bike will dive on the forks with front brake use only because of the weight and you could lose control.
  • Make sure you shift down when stopping so you are in first by the time you stop.
  • Focus on braking with your right foot and front brakes when stopping. Don’t focus on putting down your left foot. Your left foot should be going down naturally when you slow down sufficiently.
  • Try to stop the bike with it straight up as much as possible, as the weight is unforgiving if the bars are cut to one side when you brake.
  • I stop at every stop sign to maintain control. I know this isn’t everyone’s thing but focusing on stopping smoothly instead of potentially rushing into traffic gives me better results and smoother stops.
  • Keep your right hand on the end of brake lever when stopping to better modulate the brakes to facilitate stopping evenly. I have a tendency to grip too far in on the brake lever which makes it more difficult to determine the amount of force needed for proper brake engagement and disengagement. Gripping the brake lever further out on the bar closer to the end gives you better leverage.
  • Give yourself plenty of space between you and the car in front of you, especially in heavy traffic, so you have room to continue to move forward slowly as a light changes. From observation, many experienced riders of large bikes don’t need to put their feet down if they leave enough space to continue to move forward with a small amount of momentum as a traffic light changes.
  • Find a large empty parking lot to practice turns and braking on weekends.
  • Get/watch some of the instructional videos to improve your techniques. I have been watching “Ride Like a Pro” which has a lot of good content.
 
Absolutely! - "Try to stop the bike with it straight up as much as possible, as the weight is unforgiving if the bars are cut to one side when you brake."

If you stop or start with the bars turned, you are asking for a drop.
 
Absolutely! - "Try to stop the bike with it straight up as much as possible, as the weight is unforgiving if the bars are cut to one side when you brake."

If you stop or start with the bars turned, you are asking for a drop.

Agreed. While it’s obvious, my reasoning for writing it down is that with the fork dive I was experiencing because the rear brakes seemed to be too loosely set from the factory, it was easy to get the bars twisted to one side during a hard stop. 940lbs has to go somewhere, usually not where you want if the fork dives unexpectedly. With a tighter rear brake pedal adjustment it’s easier to brake with the front and rear brakes more evenly. This change reduced the dive, the handlebars stay planted straight and you stay upright. Some people might be perfectly fine with the rear brake the way it is. When I went to the dealer I had a service tech take it for a test ride and his comment was that the rear brake pedal was mushy and he tightened it up to reduce the amount of travel before it engaged the calipers. It was a game changer for me.

Tom
 
I find myself using the front brake almost exclusively. The distributed braking system works very well, where I typically ride with my pointer finger resting on the front brake lever.

I agree 100% with riding the rear brake though and using the friction zone of the clutch for all slow speed technical maneuvers.. U-Turns and sneaking around stuff ..
 
Years ago, I read the Hurt report which suggested that it was a good idea to keep two fingers over the front brake lever. This saved my ass more than once due to the instant ability to react, rather than to unwrap my fingers from the throttle and THEN get them onto the brake lever. I don't remember tip overs when using the front brake in slow speed maneuvers. Of late, it has become more of an issue, and I don't know why. was a HUGE problem with my previous S1000xr which (Thank God) I traded in on a 2022 R18 B. Need to extend the rear brake lever as well as the gear shifters. any suggestions appreciated. Many good miles to you all!
 
Years ago, I read the Hurt report which suggested that it was a good idea to keep two fingers over the front brake lever. This saved my ass more than once due to the instant ability to react, rather than to unwrap my fingers from the throttle and THEN get them onto the brake lever. I don't remember tip overs when using the front brake in slow speed maneuvers. Of late, it has become more of an issue, and I don't know why. was a HUGE problem with my previous S1000xr which (Thank God) I traded in on a 2022 R18 B. Need to extend the rear brake lever as well as the gear shifters. any suggestions appreciated. Many good miles to you all!
Longer Gear & Brake Levers or a larger Toe - Heel pedal?

Screenshot_20241014-063126.webp
 
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Years ago, I read the Hurt report which suggested that it was a good idea to keep two fingers over the front brake lever. This saved my ass more than once due to the instant ability to react, rather than to unwrap my fingers from the throttle and THEN get them onto the brake lever. I don't remember tip overs when using the front brake in slow speed maneuvers. Of late, it has become more of an issue, and I don't know why. was a HUGE problem with my previous S1000xr which (Thank God) I traded in on a 2022 R18 B. Need to extend the rear brake lever as well as the gear shifters. any suggestions appreciated. Many good miles to you all!
Try:

https://www.wunderlichamerica.com/BMW_R18_R18_Classic_Gear_Enlargers

And
https://www.motorcycleparts-hornig.com/BMW-R-18/Alu-High-grade-Steel/Shift-lever-extensions.html
 
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