I have the tune and it does make a difference, but more noticeable in how smooth it makes the bike.
35 years married also.
R18 lean angles
- Thread starter Cheshire Cat
- Start date
35 years married also.
Randy Kahn
Active member
So after 35 years your battle tested...wiping out on a corner is nothing!! Yeah, there is another member that went for the re map and likes it a lot. He swapped out the air filter also which I will do then I'm done....no more mechanical mods. I have like an addiction to buying things and trying to improve them....and of course one major mod requires another until the bike, car, boat, is unreliable...It was suggested that I do that to MYSELF!!!I have the tune and it does make a difference, but more noticeable in how smooth it makes the bike.
35 years married also.
Very rude I think!!
Cheers!
A few comments here about peg dragging.... on my R18 "pure" a Wibers +20mm shock sorted that for the most part.... it also gives 115mm travel (stock is 90). I ride mostly fast twisties.
Randy Kahn
Active member
I would imagine no one buying an R18 is a first time rider. And more than likely the target market for the bike is the over 35 crowd, and that's being kind. This bike is heavy, safe, and comfortable. And the tooling and looks are second to none. IF you want a race bike there are plenty out there....I only test drove my 2023 Anniversary model 8 blocks. The ride was totally different than my previous bikes. I thought, this is something different, I've done the speed and corning thing....and this bike is just a pleasure to ride because it so beautiful....and it's not a dog...it will go...fast enough for my interests....
Randy Kahn
Active member
I have without a doubt one of the more inane questions you'll ever see on the site, period.
On the 2023 models does anyone know what battery they put in the anniversary model, and more specifically what the CCAs are ( cold cranking amps)?
See..I told you!
On the 2023 models does anyone know what battery they put in the anniversary model, and more specifically what the CCAs are ( cold cranking amps)?
See..I told you!
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=61577&rnd=09082020
https://www.shopbmwmotorcycle.com/c...ducts/bmw-motorcycles-agm-battery-12volt-30ah
Might not get too many replies as this question is buried in a thread about lean angles. Personally I would go for a replacement when needed with highest CCA, but I have had zero issues with OEM over 2 years to include trips where parking overnight was +/- freezing and as I ride a pretty good battery charger I seldom use a tender.
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Randy Kahn
Active member
Thanks Bob,
Looks like from what I can make out the factory battery is 240 CCA..but it's hard to see.
I'm thinking of a Lithium with 400 CCAs for replacement. I've had very good luck with those in my Harley but they are expensive relatively. I have it in my head that the Harley ran better with that battery....probably just more insanity....
Ok, thanks....
The 30 ah is fairly stout and while the formula for CCA is standard, it seems the different types (glass mat v. Lithium, etc.) don't always show or use the same multipliers they use to calculate their advertise "power" so I'm not positive a Lithium 400+ CCA actually is really capable of more than the 200+ CCA Glass Mat battery (if that makes sense?).
Anyway, not quite as bad as an oil thread and I've had good service in terms of longevity and reliability in multiple types over the years from the old adding acid to fire up a new wet battery all the way to the current Lithiums so whatever makes one sleep better at night would be the one I would use when it's time for a new one. Probably more battery problems from the occasional loose/dirty connection and/or lack of use than actual type installed.
Good luck and enjoy
Randy Kahn
Active member
Yeah...your probably right....the Lithium did seem to hold a charge longer...which they are known for. And are lighter...which is of no consequence. As far as CCAs and how they are calculated with the different types of batteries....you might be right...There are two types of Lithiums I think...one is considered problematic....The 30 ah is fairly stout and while the formula for CCA is standard, it seems the different types (glass mat v. Lithium, etc.) don't always show or use the same multipliers they use to calculate their advertise "power" so I'm not positive a Lithium 400+ CCA actually is really capable of more than the 200+ CCA Glass Mat battery (if that makes sense?).
Anyway, not quite as bad as an oil thread and I've had good service in terms of longevity and reliability in multiple types over the years from the old adding acid to fire up a new wet battery all the way to the current Lithiums so whatever makes one sleep better at night would be the one I would use when it's time for a new one. Probably more battery problems from the occasional loose/dirty connection and/or lack of use than actual type installed.
Good luck and enjoy
dannyleo
New member
Sure surprised about the 3 degrees. After riding one of the first test bikes out, I was convinced I’d never have an R18 until I test ride the TC. It seemed way more capable than the others and felt like a lot more lean angle. While I figured on likely upgrading the suspension as I did on everything from my R1100S Boxer Cup to my Road Glide Limited, the BMW auto-leveling suspension sure seems to be doing the job one and two up. May find out differently up in Little Switzerland in the Blue Ridge Mountains come May.
It would have been a vary rare test ride of a R18 FE or Classic that would have had it's rear shock preload set correctly..... or at all.... BMW really stuffed that small detail up.... would have lost a lot of sales one way or another.
I found it pretty interesting how many "bike" reviewers worked this out.... sorta seems that bikes are rarely tested by competant motorcyclists in this era.... especially on youtube. I suspect a Wilbers +20mm rear shock is about the best $ one can spend on these bikes.
@dannyleo I think @Noelpolar is spot on as to the pathetic lack of proper suspension adjustment on the early R18 bikes for media use as well as dealership test rides and/or deliveries. That has been widely shared and hopefully no longer an issue, but obviously the B and TC have the rear suspension advantage from the get go as you pointed out.
I lived minutes from Little Switzerland/Blue Ridge Parkway (foothills) until our recent move to the PNW and put thousands of miles on those awesome Appalachian Mountains roads on all my bikes to include my Classic. While your rear shock's extra travel and electric adjustment may/should help a bit you gain considerable weight with the B and TC platforms that has to be managed so it will be interesting to see how much of a gain is realized. Just a guess, but I think your main advantage may come from the "better" geometry your bike enjoys as IMO the R18 C/FE make great Roadster/Standards for what they are, but the extremely long wheelbase and "relaxed" steering head angle require one's "A" game on tight sections like those on 226A or 80 or, or, or..... as it's not ground clearance that is the problem per se, but being able to "quickly" transition in those tight, technical switchbacks. Extremely fun given the power plant and stable, predictable handling that falls under "riding a slow motorcycle fast v. a fast motorcycle slow" discussions.
Anyways, enjoy your 18
I lived minutes from Little Switzerland/Blue Ridge Parkway (foothills) until our recent move to the PNW and put thousands of miles on those awesome Appalachian Mountains roads on all my bikes to include my Classic. While your rear shock's extra travel and electric adjustment may/should help a bit you gain considerable weight with the B and TC platforms that has to be managed so it will be interesting to see how much of a gain is realized. Just a guess, but I think your main advantage may come from the "better" geometry your bike enjoys as IMO the R18 C/FE make great Roadster/Standards for what they are, but the extremely long wheelbase and "relaxed" steering head angle require one's "A" game on tight sections like those on 226A or 80 or, or, or..... as it's not ground clearance that is the problem per se, but being able to "quickly" transition in those tight, technical switchbacks. Extremely fun given the power plant and stable, predictable handling that falls under "riding a slow motorcycle fast v. a fast motorcycle slow" discussions.
Anyways, enjoy your 18
Cu Dubh
Active member
I concur with your observation about the TC's lean angle vs it's steering transition rate. After riding my TC, when I get on the 1150 GS it feels almost 'flickable' in the turns. The GS has always been a good snd prefictable ride in the twisties but this 'responsiveness' caught me a bit by surprise. 
The TC is definitely a bit more deliberate in it's reaction to steering input.
The TC is definitely a bit more deliberate in it's reaction to steering input.