Ulrich
Well-known member
That is so great! ... thank you so much Scott for consolidating that info for all riders that are willing to get a little greasy hands and know it's done right !!!
R18 Annual or 6K Interval Scheduled Maintenance Parts List & Torque Specifications Worksheet
- Thread starter Scott Semone
- Start date
Cornel
Member
Hey Scott, did you ever adjust your valves?
Scott Semone
Well-known member
No, not yet; I started the job, but discovered I had the wrong size spark-plug socket. I'll probably tackle it in the next week or so; been dodging hurricanes and fishing this past week or so..
Scott Semone
Well-known member
OK - Today, Labor Day - I decided to dissemble the valve covers in order to tackle the valve adjustment job; however, I'm finding that my bike has zero gap between the valve stem at TDC. I verified TDC via the clutch viewing window and using the "Bamboo Dowel" method as per Ulrich; I just want to make sure that I'm doing this correctly, because I'll have to drastically back-out the adjustment stem in order to allow a 0.2 mm feeler gauge move freely within that space.
I noted that Ulrich verified his bike closer to a larger gap at approx. 0.3 mm; where, I'm on the complete opposite side, with zero (0) space?
Ulrich
Well-known member
Are you certain that you are in the compression stroke? something is off ... rotate your rear wheel @ 1 rotation (a little less if you are in 6th ... a little more if you are in 5th) ... you can NOT set both sides at the same time ... they are 360º off if one side is on TDC and all valves appear tight .. check the other side cylinder!!
EDIT: Your crankshaft turns 2 rotations to your camshaft 1 .. so even if it shows TDC you may be 180º off on the cam ... please be careful I screwed that up before
Scott Semone
Well-known member
Yes, that was the case .. the bike is all buttoned up and is currently running smooth.. You were absolutely correct
Ulrich
Well-known member
Thanks Scott ... and it was good talking to you .. I knew you had this ... piece of cake!
Were they in spec, or did they need minor adjustment?
Scott Semone
Well-known member
Right side was grossly out of spec; that however, might have been caused by me. Left side was surprisedly within the 0.25 mm specification.
I thought it's within the .20 to .25 mm spec, so .25mm should be almost a no go. .007" feeler gauge to .011", with a .009 being smack dab in the middle.
vwjedi
Member
Just so I understand clearly (doing my valves this weekend).
The TDC mark shows when one side is top of compression. Set that side then rotate flywheel around and back to the marks and then the other side is at top of compression.
Correct?
vwjedi
Member
Also a side question.
Where did you guys get your kern stabi from? All the places I've found wont ship outside of Europe?
Where did you guys get your kern stabi from? All the places I've found wont ship outside of Europe?
Ulrich
Well-known member
Yes and no ... remember the camshaft turns 1 rotation to your crankshaft 2 ... that means even if you are on TDC (showing in the peephole when the crank sensor is removed) you still could be 180º off on the cam. I will try to fabricate a small animation on Friday (as soon as I have time) that will show that much clearer.
If you are on your TDC and your valves appear to have no play at all ... it is safe to say that you need 1 more 360º rotation of your crankshaft.
And you will have to repeat that procedure for the other side.
The easiest way of figuring out where you are is this:
More often than not your engine will stop at the compression point of one of the cylinders, but you never know which one. So, take your sparkplugs out (one on each side is enough), put the bike into 6th gear and start rotation your rear wheel in traveling direction. Watch the valves while you are doing the rotating ... the when you see the exhaust valves opening (pushing it down) ... the valves towards the front of the bike ... keep turning and watch it close, immediately after that the intake valves should start opening (that crossover point is also TDC .. but not the one you are looking for) ... valves toward the rear of the bike ... watch it close ... now you should be @ 1/2 rotation away from the TDC you are looking for ... this is the time I use the scewer/dowel and watch it come out when I continue to turn the wheel, when it stops moving you are very close and you will have to use the peephole to get exact. The valves now should be 'loose' there you go ... repeat that procedure for the other side!! ... there are shortcuts to this ... but I don't recommend them ... I hope this helps.
Oh and please turn it only in the direction of travel ... some engines are sensitive and don't take it kindly being rotated the other way round, if you over shoot ... just keep turning and come back around ... I am not sure how sensitive these engines are ... but better safe than sorry IMO
vwjedi
Member
Thank you! Makes total sense
Scott Semone
Well-known member
I just ordered a 46 mm open end - box combination wrench in order to rotate the rear wheel via the final drive hex nut in order to locate TDC.
Kickstand_Down
Active member
Curious, I've seen the gasket ring 252 and gasket ring 132 listed a few times, but I don't think I've seen it explained as to what they are respectively used for.
Ulrich
Well-known member
Not sure what the 132 is ... but the 252 is the 'Crush Washer' for the drain plug ... no need for a new one .. just be gentle and clean it up good before re-using.
EDIT: the 132 is the one for the final drive filler plug ... same as above .. be gentle and re-use .. i have done that multiple times will no ill results.
Kickstand_Down
Active member
Gotcha, hadn't seen a close up of it used, just sitting on the table with stuff. Trying to do research to make sure I have everything before I start draining. I'm seeing...
07119963252 = Oil drain plug crush washer
07119963132 = Final drive fill plug crush washer
33117695219 = Final drive drain plug rubber o-ring
Assuming the transmission drain bolt doesn't have any sort of disposable gasket? Also, Seems like the transmission fill plug has a factory pressed washer on it (IE, try and replace at your own risk), so either replace the whole thing if you want, try to replace the washer itself, or reuse as comfortable?
Honestly, washers are $1 apiece. Cheap insurance, and even if you don't always choose to replace, seems like keeping spares on hand for one getting messed up/lost in the process is a good idea.
Ulrich
Well-known member
The transmission drain plug has a forced on crush washer on it .. they want you to buy a whole new plug if you need a new washer ... very silly .. I have been re-using them with 0 ill effects