This guy oils…..I did the same thing, and took it one step further. Instead of paying a million dollars an ounce for the trans and final drive fluid, Stellantis (Ram pickups) has the exact fluid for far cheaper….I changed mine out at approx. 4,000 miles, flawless approaching 7000 miles now.OOOOH!!! I love oil threads!
FWIW, just make sure you use oil that meets/exceeds BMW's OEM standards. For me personally, I use "Liqui Moly Motorbike 4T SAE 15W-50", as it has all the standards required for our engines and catalytic converters, particularly "JASO MA2". Liquid Moly IMO is the best, cheapest oil for our bikes. I don't believe in throwing $$$$ towards brand names (e.g. BMW) when a cheaper brand has the EXACT SAME lubrication standards. It's like how the cheaper Walmart brand oil is just as good as the name brand stuff (in certain situations - watch "Project Farm" on YT, he tests these products).
All that tells me is that the "BMW's" of the world feel they can price gouge their customers.
Here's the oil I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D91Q402/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And a quick article on the various JASO standards:
https://rymax-lubricants.com/updates/what-does-the-jaso-oil-specification-mean
Quick article on "API SL":
https://360.lubrizol.com/Specifications/API-Passenger/API-SL
Bottom line: "API SL" means it's top-shelf oil, and is the current API specification for modern engines. "JASO MA2" is the Japanese oil standard, with "MA2" signifying it's use in motorcycle engines that have catalytic converters.
Mike
I use the same thing! I have a Mopar dealer 5 minutes from me and they stock it for Jeep trannies. 3 bottles a year at GM prices makes it more palatable! The smell of this oil though is nasty though....
You are limited to moto spec , not for clutch engagement purposes on a R-18, but for the additive packages required and needed for the heat generated both at idle, and when your cylinder head is both air AND OIL COOLED. Heat destroys additive packages, it breaks the chemical components for film and barrier protection additives down. Therefore, in oil and air cooled engines, the additive package for motorcycles is substantially higher and more heavy duty, than for water cooled car engines. Do some more oil research on motorcycle oils on Bob Is The Oil Guy, if you want to learn more.
Yes. The K1600
Yes, my R1200RS had a wet clutch as does the R1250RS and R1300RS
It's zinc and phosphorus levels are nowhere near as high as the Mobil 1 motorcycle V Twin 20w-50 motor oil. Compare it yourself, roughly 30 and 45% more in the V Twin motor oil.
My old K100 and K1200 were dry clutch bikes; the K1300 was a wet clutch design. Design wise, the older K bikes were notorious for the $2.85 seal failing, letting oil through into the clutch housing and costing the rider a new clutch. The K1300 was a superb machine - the wet clutch eleminated the seal failure problem, but meant the oil had to serve two masters: both engine and clutch. The oil specs were an issue, some of the additives in the newer / higher spec oils didn't like the friction pads in the clutch. From memory, I think there was an issue with zinc. BMW also put the clutch on side of the K1300s, making it much easier to get to the clutch and replace it. I think its kind of interesting that the R18s all come with a dry clutch - very R-series retro - any issues with seals or clutches yet?
Most new BMWs have wet clutches...of course the R18s are dry.
Worth a read about things.... https://penriteoil.com.au/knowledge-centre/JASO MA/157/jaso-ma,-ma1,-ma2-and-jaso-mb/398
The big twin harley drivetrain uses separate oils for:
