My new, retro bike to match my 1952 Boxer

[BoxerBMW]

 

[tommymck]

That's cool! Where'd you find the bar end signals?

 

[motoring]

Very very sweet. Add some tank knee pads, and cut a hole in left side of the tank to store the bmw tool kit and it would be perfect lol (well at least my 65 r60/2 has a left side storage are in the tank key accessed).

 

[BobW]

Nicely done and the photos are great!

 

[BoxerBMW]

That's cool! Where'd you find the bar end signals?

They are Hella signals that were often on the /2 BMW bikes in the '60s. Most anyplace that sells vintage BMW parts will have them. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/blinker159.htm. These were not plug-and-play for the R18. I had to modify the signals and machine parts on the bike to make them fit and work.

 

[BoxerBMW]

Very very sweet. Add some tank knee pads, and cut a hole in left side of the tank to store the bmw tool kit and it would be perfect lol (well at least my 65 r60/2 has a left side storage are in the tank key accessed).

Please, don't give me these ideas. I tend to run with them.

 

[tommymck]

They are Hella signals that were often on the /2 BMW bikes in the '60s. Most anyplace that sells vintage BMW parts will have them. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/blinker159.htm. These were not plug-and-play for the R18. I had to modify the signals and machine parts on the bike to make them fit and work.

Oh, I'm familiar with the Hella's. I thought that yours might have been something made for the R18 that were made to look like the Hellas.

 

[Bwana]

Nice! Love that 50s Beemer. Congrats btw.

 

[elementul]

They are Hella signals that were often on the /2 BMW bikes in the '60s. Most anyplace that sells vintage BMW parts will have them. https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/blinker159.htm. These were not plug-and-play for the R18. I had to modify the signals and machine parts on the bike to make them fit and work.

Will you remove the original front turn signals?

 

[BoxerBMW]

I'm keeping them. More light is better.

 

[Cu Dubh]

Did you have any issues wiring them into the bars? I'd like to do this but using aftermarket signals (a machinist I am not!). With all the electronics on the TC's bars, I'm wondering what I might run in to with such an install. Thanks

 

[BoxerBMW]

No issues. I used LED Festoon bulbs which don't draw enough to mess with CANbus. If you want, I can go into more detail about what I had to do. The trickiest part was boring through that long-ass bolt holding the bar weights in.

 

[tommymck]

 

[Cu Dubh]

No issues. I used LED Festoon bulbs which don't draw enough to mess with CANbus. If you want, I can go into more detail about what I had to do. The trickiest part was boring through that long-ass bolt holding the bar weights in.

Ah... yes please, a bit more detail would be great. How did you bore out the bar end weights? A lathe?

 

[BoxerBMW]

Let's see...first the Hella signals. I broke off the expansion tabs that would normally go into the bar end. They're aluminum and they break off easily with a pair of pliers and then I filed them smooth.

Remove the bar end bolts and weights. For the bolts: I drilled a 5/32" hole through the bolt for the wire. The bolt is 75mm to 80mm long so I had to do this from each end and they have to meet. Use a good bit in a lathe or drill press and take your time. Then at the head of the bolt, drill and tap it for M8 x 1.25 threads. I went like 18mm deep. This is to fit the drilled, aluminum bolt that comes with the Hella signals.

Since the bolts are almost flush to the bar end weights stock, I had to recess the weights for the depth of the signal ends. This was done on a metal lathe. Carefully wrap the weight with tape to protect the finish. Don't overlap the tape because it has to be perfectly centered in the chuck. A boring tool was used to maintain the same diameter hole from a depth of 13mm to 26mm...so the bolt is just deep enough for the signal end to snug against the bolt.

I used 18 gauge wire to fish through everything and tapped into the wiring harness. I used the wire connectors that have solder already inside shrike tubing and it worked slick. You only need one wire for these signals since the ground is through the housing.

I got 42mm Festoon bulbs here: https://www.ledlight.com/festoon_42mm_3_watt_led_6_qty_5730_smd_12vdc_1_3_4_inches_120_deg.aspx The amber color bulbs do work best.

Between the bar end and the signal housing, I used neoprene washers (I had to fabricate my own) to keep water out and to keep the signals from turning. I also used a little blue Loctite on the supplied aluminum M8x1.25 bolt.

I am very happy with the result.

 

[Cu Dubh]

Let's see...first the Hella signals. I broke off the expansion tabs that would normally go into the bar end. They're aluminum and they break off easily with a pair of pliers and then I filed them smooth.

Remove the bar end bolts and weights. For the bolts: I drilled a 5/32" hole through the bolt for the wire. The bolt is 75mm to 80mm long so I had to do this from each end and they have to meet. Use a good bit in a lathe or drill press and take your time. Then at the head of the bolt, drill and tap it for M8 x 1.25 threads. I went like 18mm deep. This is to fit the drilled, aluminum bolt that comes with the Hella signals.

Since the bolts are almost flush to the bar end weights stock, I had to recess the weights for the depth of the signal ends. This was done on a metal lathe. Carefully wrap the weight with tape to protect the finish. Don't overlap the tape because it has to be perfectly centered in the chuck. A boring tool was used to maintain the same diameter hole from a depth of 13mm to 26mm...so the bolt is just deep enough for the signal end to snug against the bolt.

I used 18 gauge wire to fish through everything and tapped into the wiring harness. I used the wire connectors that have solder already inside shrike tubing and it worked slick. You only need one wire for these signals since the ground is through the housing.

I got 42mm Festoon bulbs here: https://www.ledlight.com/festoon_42mm_3_watt_led_6_qty_5730_smd_12vdc_1_3_4_inches_120_deg.aspx The amber color bulbs do work best.

Between the bar end and the signal housing, I used neoprene washers (I had to fabricate my own) to keep water out and to keep the signals from turning. I also used a little blue Loctite on the supplied aluminum M8x1.25 bolt.

I am very happy with the result.

Excellent explanation. As it requires a lathe to be done correctly, it will have to be a future project for me. Thank you for taking the effort and time to write this up.