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My Beach Bar installation

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1768230793#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter MilwDave
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MilwDave said:
It is a billet item that uses the OEM inner assembly from the stock cap. You only need a C-clip pliers to remove and install the insert.
There are knock-offs from China on eBay but they don’t look that great in the pictures. The RSD cap is very well made.
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Good to Know, i had to look the pliers up, I always called them snap ring pliers but I see they actually can also be called Circlip, rotor clip, Jesus clip,
 
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I finally had some time to get back out in the garage and work on the turn signals. I installed the Kellermann Atto lights using Kellermann's Variable Mount. I removed the front signals and used a M6 button head screw to attach the mount to the large nut that attached the OEM signal to the controls. I really didn't want to cut into the factory harness so I used the Wunderlich indicator extension adaptor cable. I was uncertain if I would need a resister added but in the end found it is not needed.

I went with the Atto lights on Hans Lang's recommendation. I was a little uncertain because they are so tiny but I can tell you they unbelievably bright. Han's is building me a rear fender that will incorporate the Integral Atto lights.

I also replaced the bar-end mirrors with Biltwell mirrors. With the beach bar the bar-ends interfered when the bars were fully turned. The Biltwells worked out perfectly.

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MilwDave said:
I finally had some time to get back out in the garage and work on the turn signals. I installed the Kellermann Atto lights using Kellermann's Variable Mount. I removed the front signals and used a M6 button head screw to attach the mount to the large nut that attached the OEM signal to the controls. I really didn't want to cut into the factory harness so I used the Wunderlich indicator extension adaptor cable. I was uncertain if I would need a resister added but in the end found it is not needed.

I went with the Atto lights on Hans Lang's recommendation. I was a little uncertain because they are so tiny but I can tell you they unbelievably bright. Han's is building me a rear fender that will incorporate the Integral Atto lights.

I also replaced the bar-end mirrors with Biltwell mirrors. With the beach bar the bar-ends interfered when the bars were fully turned. The Biltwells worked out perfectly.

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Great Work MD!
 
MilwDave said:
The extended wiring harnesses are more than long enough to accommodate internal routing. In the video on YouTube they have to zip tie the considerable remaining length underneath the tank.
Removing the right side harness from the bars was tight (slathered with lithium grease from the factory) but I just needed to take my time to arrange the connectors properly before pulling them past the bends and not cause any damage. The beach bar has far gentler bends so getting the wires past the them will go easier

Here is where I have questions. You have to ask yourself why the beach bar does not come with the slots milled from the factory to allow for internal wiring?
If you look closely you can see the ridge on the beach bar near the reduced grip area. I am not certain if this is a pressed-in segment. I did run a length of wire through the bar to make certain there is no solid sections inside the bar. But I will have to mill the slot near or over that seam. My next step is to endoscope the inside of the bars to see what I'm up against there.

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I ordered extension wiring but only one side turned up which is part number 1 605 831 (bottom one in pic). Do you know part number for top one in your pic please
 
Reverend 23 said:
I ordered extension wiring but only one side turned up which is part number 1 605 831 (bottom one in pic). Do you know part number for top one in your pic please
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Sorry, but I do not have the part numbers. I would think the dealer you ordered from should be able to figure it out.
 
This is a big help for me to see how you’re doing the lights - thank you! I have one question about the hardware I circled in red. Are those needed and are those Kellermann pieces? I ordered the lights and the variable mount adaptor M6. I am trying to confirm that I have the correct pieces.
 

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e66 said:
This is a big help for me to see how you’re doing the lights - thank you! I have one question about the hardware I circled in red. Are those needed and are those Kellermann pieces? I ordered the lights and the variable mount adaptor M6. I am trying to confirm that I have the correct pieces.
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I ordered the parts from Kuryakyn. Here is the Amazon link to them:

Kuryakyn 2582 Motorcycle Lighting Accessory: Turn Signal/Blinker Variable Mounting Adapters for Kellermann Atto, Micro S, Rhombus S, M6 Internal Threads, Black, 1 Pair https://a.co/d/9KKBRSM
 
No, you do not need to empty the tank but it is obviously lighter with less fuel.
Download the installation instructions off of the BMW website. They are pretty complete.
 
Really enjoyed your thorough explanations and detailed photos of the whole handlebar indicator exercise. My last cruiser was a 1900 Roadliner as well and loved the torque. After a stint doing enduros I am back on cruisers and luvin my R18 Custom. I have risers to change hand position but it looks like beach bars will be the answer. Amazing there is no provision for internal wiring. Thanks for the R&D, you leave no stone unturned.
 
MilwDave said:
So my alarm did not go off this morning and we arrived at the airport 15 minutes too late to board our flight. So while my travel agent tries to get us another flight I played around with the bars to get my mind off of this FUBAR.

The wall thickness of the beach bar tubing is greater but the wiring will slide through. I attached a length of string to the harness and lubed the inside of the bars with lithium grease. The right side with the throttle control wiring is bulkier and I started with that harness. As I mentioned earlier the minimal bends of the beach bar made it go easier but that bulkier harness took a little patience to avoid stressing any of the wiring. But after getting the right side in the left slid right through.

So we can safely say that BMW dropped the ball by not slotting the bars for the wiring.

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Hi, great job on bar mods! can you share the PN: of the longer cables and hoses please?
 
erico said:
Hi, great job on bar mods! can you share the PN: of the longer cables and hoses please?
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Sorry, I don’t but any BMW dealer will have the part numbers and that’s where you’ll have to buy them.
 
MilwDave said:
Sorry, I don’t but any BMW dealer will have the part numbers and that’s where you’ll have to buy them.
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ok no worries, the local dealer here quoted along with the bar clamp set (2,3 & 4 in the drawing). Do you think I need it or my stock should work too? I have the FE pure btw. thanks
 

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erico said:
ok no worries, the local dealer here quoted along with the bar clamp set (2,3 & 4 in the drawing). Do you think I need it or my stock should work too? I have the FE pure btw. thanks
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Yes you will need those lines. Make sure the dealer gets you a copy of the instructions.
I would pass on the expensive BMW risers. You can use aftermarket risers designed for Harley Davidson. They are less expensive and you have a wide variety to choose from.IMG_1423.jpeg
 
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