Just installed a lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) battery

1911tex

1911tex

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Lithium LiFePO4 Tykool Motorcycle Battery, 12V 18Ah, 800CCA, Built in BMS from Amazon. Cost $200. In my 2021 BMW First Edition. Same size 4.9D x 6.53W x 6.9H. 900amps starting power, 4000 charging cycles. 10 times more starts, 5 times longer life. Weights only 7.2 lbs and has 18amps cold cranking amps. And can be recharged in a few minutes. I always noticed my original AGM battery always struggled a bit to crank the big 1800 cc engine. Now it is like day and night...I don't even hear the starter! I don't ride in very cold weather....only 40 degrees or more, so not a problem. Just thought I would throw this into the mix!​

 
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I see on my newer BMW trickle charger, that it accommodates Li type batteries, as well as AGM type; I'm not sure if the trickle charger has a BMS link that it establishes with the Li type battery?
 
Scott I use a NOCO smart charger....just states Lithium like yours...my thoughts are that the BMS is what keeps a Li battery from overcharging or trickle charged...which is bad for a lithium if continued. The Lithium will stay a full charge for a long time and should never be trickle charged. If a smart charger like yours is set on Lithium it will set to 100% and not trickle charge like it would if the charger was set on lead acid or AGM modes. The good thing about LiFeP04 is that the Li battery will not blow up!@!! My previous motorcycle was used and came with a newer Lithium battery and needed no charging for months. Maybe lithium wise folks will chime in.
 
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1911tex said:

Lithium LiFePO4 Tykool Motorcycle Battery, 12V 18Ah, 800CCA, Built in BMS from Amazon. Cost $200. In my 2021 BMW First Edition. Same size 4.9D x 6.53W x 6.9H. 900amps starting power, 4000 charging cycles. 10 times more starts, 5 times longer life. Weights only 7.2 lbs and has 18amps cold cranking amps. And can be recharged in a few minutes. I always noticed my original AGM battery always struggled a bit to crank the big 1800 cc engine. Now it is like day and night...I don't even hear the starter! I don't ride in very cold weather....only 40 degrees or more, so not a problem. Just thought I would throw this into the mix!​

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Can you share the Amazon link?
 
Was it easy to insert the Li battery being smaller a lighter? I’ve struggle to remove the battery in the past and am looking for a smaller alternative.
 
Iaennecr: The battery I posted in the link above is the same size as the original except maybe <1/3" more narrow. I used a very thin piece of closed foam to keep it tight. It fits perfectly which is important as a motorcycle battery must not shift! The rubber strip that secures the front of the original battery is still very effective. Yes the battery is less than half the weight of the original. Inserts very easy..primarily because it is light weight. Best part of using a Li battery is you do not need to keep a charger on the battery if you ride your bike only every couple of weeks or longer. The Li battery holds its charge much longer than an AGM and your bike can quickly recharge it in a fraction of the time it takes to recharge an AGM. It will outlast an AGM. I have the anti-theft disabled so that long-term secure storage makes the drain negligible and the remote key is kept stored at a distance. Note that if you do use a charger...it MUST be Lithium enabled. I cannot understand why someone would not replace a lead acid or AGM motorcycle battery with the latest Lithium generation with LiFePO4 and BMS.
 
One reason not to jump to Lithium - is what you already mentioned: You have to use a smart charger that is Lithium aware, even with some chemistries - you have to have it chemistry aware as there are different needs based on the Lithium chemistry itself. My charger has a setting for LiFeP04 and one for generic Lithium, and some have more settings.

That's all great when you are in a controlled setting (like your own garage) - but if you are out on a ride in the middle of nowhere, as we sometimes do on our motorcycles, you may not have that same capability. If you have a more regular battery - almost anyone anywhere can help you.

This will gradually change over time, but is something to be considered. It is probably why AGM makes a good middle ground, they are better than regular lead acid - but can still be worked on with most every kind of charger or jump starter.

Additionally - and I had to think a lot about this with our battery for our RV - many of the most affordable lithium batteries can be unpredictably poorly built, so make sure if you DO get a lithium battery that it comes from someone known for high build quality - as the fire risk from lithium batteries built poorly is significant.

I bet in about 5 to 10 years this angle of the debate will go away though, as Lithium starts to overtake the others as more common.
 
Fwiw.... I'd be quite comfortable with a lifepo4 battery on my R18. Unless I'm getting confused with my r ninet (and it is probally the same anyhow).... I only see 14.4v on my guage when the bike is running.... I've not seen a lower float voltage at all...... and lifepo4s are quite happy at 14.4.... especially for most bikes that won't be running for 24/7.... also the battery is not in a hot enviroment, like under the bonnet of a car... and we are not asking the R18 to charge a 200ah battery from flat or anything like that... so the bike electrics should be ok. The biggest issue I always have questions about.... is if the lithium batteries BMS goes open circuit whilst the bike is running what does the bike's electrical system do....? Lead based batteries do not normally fail this way.... and vehicle electrical systems expect a battery, so what will the charging system regulate to?

Fwiw..... I have run lifepo4s for over 5 years in the hot enviroment of my engine bay (as an aux battery) and in my RV. The engine bay one is rated to 80 degrees centigrade for 1C charge or discharge. This now 5yo under bonnet lifepo4 has outlasted the 2 previous lead based batteries combined, and delivers a higher current now than prevous batteries did when new (similar amp hour ratings). I test it each year or so.... I expect it age about 20% faster then normal because of the hot enviroment... at the rate it is going I reckon at about 8 years it will still just out perform a new AGM... I draw 90amps cont in the test to a certain voltage.... as I need 90 to run my coffee maker.

A lot of stuff about lifepo4's is related to achieving the longest life from them and this is an important consideration in large expensive systems where 10 plus years is needed for the business case. For me, in auto and RV situations I happily trade some possible life for their other benefits.
 
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Touche! I just sold an older 35' sloop that I had restored over the past 5 years..kept 2 12v LifePo4 Li batteries for engine and electrics.....never a problem discharging without use for a month plus at a time. I did not put a Li in my old Great Lakes as it had not been FAA certified by the time I sold the airplane...otherwise it would have been an easy install...it would have required a complete weight and balance cert., but well worth it! I hate heavy quick to discharge batteries.
 
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1911tex said:

Lithium LiFePO4 Tykool Motorcycle Battery, 12V 18Ah, 800CCA, Built in BMS from Amazon. Cost $200. In my 2021 BMW First Edition. Same size 4.9D x 6.53W x 6.9H. 900amps starting power, 4000 charging cycles. 10 times more starts, 5 times longer life. Weights only 7.2 lbs and has 18amps cold cranking amps. And can be recharged in a few minutes. I always noticed my original AGM battery always struggled a bit to crank the big 1800 cc engine. Now it is like day and night...I don't even hear the starter! I don't ride in very cold weather....only 40 degrees or more, so not a problem. Just thought I would throw this into the mix!​

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Despite Lithium batteries getting a bad rap when they first came out.....these days they definitely are the way to go. I put Lithium batteries in my Harley and 2014 R9T and besides the instant starting, keeping a charge much longer that previous batteries, both bikes seem to ride better if that's even possible....
I'm definitely doing to put maybe this exact battery in my 23 Anniversary bike....
 
1911tex said:

Lithium LiFePO4 Tykool Motorcycle Battery, 12V 18Ah, 800CCA, Built in BMS from Amazon. Cost $200. In my 2021 BMW First Edition. Same size 4.9D x 6.53W x 6.9H. 900amps starting power, 4000 charging cycles. 10 times more starts, 5 times longer life. Weights only 7.2 lbs and has 18amps cold cranking amps. And can be recharged in a few minutes. I always noticed my original AGM battery always struggled a bit to crank the big 1800 cc engine. Now it is like day and night...I don't even hear the starter! I don't ride in very cold weather....only 40 degrees or more, so not a problem. Just thought I would throw this into the mix!​

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1911tex.
Question: How did you settle on this exact battery? So, this battery I assume will fit in any R18? And if you know, or any mechanics on board here, is there an issue with 800CCAs?? That's a LOT, so I'm wondering if the starter over time will fail with that much of a jolt?
I'll tell you why I ask about the CCAs. I have a new 23 Anniversary version. It's going in for the 600 mile service soon. I was thinking of having the dealer go ahead a install a lithium battery, as I like the idea of them and I figure the battery in my bike from the factory is probably half shot anyway, and the battery is not easy to get to for me to replace. The service dept. recommended a battery with 450CCAs....so I'm wondering if there is a concern with too much starting torque in an 800CCA version.....
Thanks.
 
Randy: The battery is a 12V battery.....It tests and puts out only 12volts. It will not blow up a cheap 12 volt-meter or blow out a 12v taillight. It is just a modern 12v battery with a strong backbone.
 
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The measurements are listed in post #5 link above. This is not the only Li battery out there......there are many, many available from many sources. This is just one of several found on Amazon. Yes it fit my '21 R18 perfectly. Note this is just my personal experience. Others more involved may chime in.....
 
Randy it took me <20 minutes total time going super slow and methodical removing the old and replacing with the Li battery. Most of the time taking removing the left side covers and rubber battery hold down strap. I am not a professional mechanic...by far. Also I did not lose date/time or any other instruments features. Just a thought...provide the battery to the dealer so that they may not over charge (bill) for the battery.
 
1911tex said:
Randy it took me <20 minutes total time going super slow and methodical removing the old and replacing with the Li battery. Most of the time taking removing the left side covers and rubber battery hold down strap. I am not a professional mechanic...by far. Also I did not lose date/time or any other instruments features. Just a thought...provide the battery to the dealer so that they may not over charge (bill) for the battery.
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Always remove the Negative ( - ) terminal first when working on your battery; as soon as the Negative side is disconnected, you remove the risk or hazard of a short condition if you were to accidentally touch the frame of the bike with your rachet, while removing the Positive ( + ) terminal.

If you decide to do it the other way (not removing the ground first); maybe wear brown colored pants...
 
Scott Semone said:
Always remove the Negative ( - ) terminal first when working on your battery; as soon as the Negative side is disconnected, you remove the risk or hazard of a short condition if you were to accidentally touch the frame of the bike with your rachet, while removing the Positive ( + ) terminal.

If you decide to do it the other way (not removing the ground first); maybe wear brown colored pants...
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Scott you are right on! If you follow your owners guide on removing the battery...there is only one way (on the R18); the Neg terminal is only accessible first with just an inch or two battery pulled out...once battery is out, the Pos is available....install battery the same way as removed; i.e. connect positive, then push in battery and connect negative last. Not difficult at all.
 
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Randy Kahn said:
Despite Lithium batteries getting a bad rap when they first came out.....these days they definitely are the way to go. I put Lithium batteries in my Harley and 2014 R9T and besides the instant starting, keeping a charge much longer that previous batteries, both bikes seem to ride better if that's even possible....
I'm definitely doing to put maybe this exact battery in my 23 Anniversary bike....
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Randy, I’ll be interested to know if your anniversary bike does okay when you get the Li battery. If so, I’ll copy that.
 
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