Information I bought Ohlins so you don't have to (BM 180 Install + Review)

[JAMUSAURUS]

TLDR: Recommend going with another option. It's good with the right tuning.

Pros:

• Custom adjustment to your liking (Rebound + Preload)
• Improvement over stock, more dynamic with sag and overall comfort.
• height adjustable, up to +0.9mm (for this model)
• perfect fit for installation, was a straight forward swap.

Indifferences:

• Spring travel is about the same as stock, missed opportunity here.
• Lacks 'out of the box' performance- needs a proper set up for a 200lbs rider.
• Rebound set up documentation specs don't align with out of the box settings (though a set up mitigates this anyway).

Cons:

• The finish on the Blackline doesn't seem as durable as the original gold.
• Remote Pre-load adjuster is a gimmick (further testing needed). No 'click' feedback when adjusting the knob.
• Spring is too light fitted from factory with 21103-31 (95 N/mm) and should use the 21103-34 or 36 (105 N/mm+) that is used with Harley STX 46 products.
• Height Adjuster doesn't seem robust enough, but that's my opinion. Ohlins redesigned the shock body for the next gen of this shock (BM 181). I speculate they didn't want to take the risk of an injury and removed this feature.
• Still scraping pegs with a 16" rear.

I've put about 2500km so far as of this review. I'm still optimistic about this product as it's not fully tuned and more comfortable than stock. I will dial it in further over the winter and write an updated review here.

Factory ZF vs Ohlins BM180


There is a new version - BM181 - which has a different design and ditches ride height



Before Height w/ ZF factory shock


After Install (max height +0.9mm)

 

[brownbandit]

You may be able to (based on the photo of the Online shock) add this extension from Kraus.

I once added it to a Harley OEM Onlins suspension that wasn't stated to be supported and it connected right up. While it won't give you the extra travel they should have added it will give you extra height if needed.

 

[u20251009]

I started with the Ohlins rear shock. It only made about 10% difference so I called Ohlins. They asked if I had changed the front suspension which I had not yet done.

The stock suspension has no holdup and the pegs and pipes drag easily. You need to also change out the antiquated front suspension adding cartridges in order for the Ohlins or stock shock to work properly.

I installed the Andreani Usa MISANO EVO cartridge kit. I'm convinced that's one of the reasons why these bikes are so hated in reviews because the stock suspension is so bad. The front is bouncy, there is no chassis/tire feel, there's little to no holdup, and it's jarring where you feel it in your spine. A two tank ride is so painful on the stock suspension, and I've never had back issues.

If I could only do one, I'd do the front cartridges. However, both are recommended. You'll have a new bike for about $2k USD and a little work.

David (and others) at Andreani are super helpful - Ohlins was too. Warning, the Evo cartridges for the R18 shows a top cap with rebound/compression adjusters. Those are not compatible with the R18 kit since it has a closed top cap mounting design. You really don't need them anyway on a 700+ lb bike. Set it up the first time with the right oil and oil level and it's fine out of the box for a 180-200 lb person in my experience. If it's still a problem, Andreani has something like 50 sets of valve stacks they can set you up with and of course Ohlins has everything you could possibly need too.

Mine were spec'd for my weight and worked right out of the box getting the levels and settings right during installation. Ohlins has a nice setup sheet to get you dialed in from the start.

@JAMUSAURUS nice job on the write-up and pics.

 

[u20251009]

A word of warning on getting the oil lock out of the fork stanchion requires a lathe. I was told you can do it with a grinder and ended up destroying one of mine. They way that lock is in there they roll the end of the stanchion with the lock installed to close it in. The stanchion is one piece of metal with the oil lock encapsulated.

I paid an hours labor ($140) for a machinist to get them out for me. He did not have a 49mm bore, but instead had a brass jig in the bed that he was able to position the stanchion where the triple clamp holds it since they are discolored from that anyway to turn them down. It left subtle more greying on that section but it's clamped down there anyway and was already discolored.

They are Showa forks and on BMW that stanchion is $800. I went on ebay and got a pair from China for $200. They are the exact same Showa parts you can't tell the difference and I suspect that's how BMW gets them anyway.

BMW R18 Andreani Usa MISANO EVO cartridge kit

 

[u20251009]

The 6:00 mark and the first 5 seconds show how the oil locks are machined and installed in the stanchions.

 

[Noelpolar]

Fwiw... I just went springs and emulators.... worked fine.