Did the DNA upgrade

[Keehn]

I agree 100%. Oiled filter have absolutely no business being on modern engines with maf sensors or turboed engines. The evidence is overwhelming of maf sensor failures and turbo damage. What happens in a turbos is they spray oil on the compressor wheel and then dirt starts collecting on the oil which in turn causes damage to the surface of the wheel and bearings as it's no longer balanced with added weight of oil and dirt. Anyways that's besides the point since we don't have turbos, the point is is that they cause damage period. I do not understand why manufacturers keep making oil filters for new engines. Their are plenty of other filter media choices out there that flow well and filter as well as oem without damaging components.
I would love to do the dna intake because the oem filter setup is very restrictve and added power and noise sounds great, but that crappy oil filter hold me back and unfortunately with the godawful aftermarket support for our bikes they are the only name in the game so no intake mods for me. This motor has a ton of potential but with the lack of aftermarket support and how bad the sales are I doubt their will ever be serious development to this power plant.

because the oem filter setup is very restrictve

It's all a matter of square inches of filter material. If you can stuff more SI of filter material in the intake (not density, but surface area), then you can have your cake and eat it too.

I did this in my old house. The previous owners had 1" thick HEPA filters for a 2 ton air handler, but I upgraded to a 5 ton unit. As a result, I had to cut the air boxes to accommodate 4" thick HEPA filters, but with the same 20x20" frame. As a result, the new air handler could use the existing ductwork, but breathe better, due to the increased surface area of the new surface area that the 4" 20x20" filters gave it.

Exact same idea here. Just find that "Goldilocks" filter that may require modification of the airbox, but will allow greater airflow.

Mike

 

[PistolPeteSTL]

I run oiled cotton filters in about everything with a motor and I've never had an issue. 150k on a filter in my Ford truck before I felt the need to replace it. The secret is to clean, oil, then let dry for a day before you reinstall and you won't get oil on your MAF or other sensors.

 

[Adrian R]

I run oiled cotton filters in about everything with a motor and I've never had an issue. 150k on a filter in my Ford truck before I felt the need to replace it. The secret is to clean, oil, then let dry for a day before you reinstall and you won't get oil on your MAF or other sensors.

Exactly. Use your head, and let logic dictate action, not hype or opinion.

 

[Folo]

The last two times my bike has started without having to hit the starter twice so the DNA filter is so far paying off.. it's the only thing I've changed!

 

[Keehn]

I run oiled cotton filters in about everything with a motor and I've never had an issue. 150k on a filter in my Ford truck before I felt the need to replace it. The secret is to clean, oil, then let dry for a day before you reinstall and you won't get oil on your MAF or other sensors.

Can you let everyone else with an oiled air filter know what you do please? It would sure save a lot of burned out MAFs and pissed off owners.

That's what bothers me so much about these products...NO ONE F*CKING KNOWS HOW TO USE THEM PROPERLY!!!!!

Plus, I stand by what I said about putting oil in a part of the air intake where oil shouldn't be. Just because oiled filters are used in racing applications doesn't mean they have any business in consumer vehicles. Does Joe 6-pack tear down his engine on the regular, like a race car driver?

Shall we recommend K&N and DNA filters to our friends in the southwestern United States, where it's dirty and dusty? The particulates are FAR more likely to pass by the micro fibers of the cotton and/or bind with the oil, thus robbing the engine of power far sooner than a typical paper air filter would have.

Again, just an early 40's - something "curmudgeon" who isn't sold on the idea of "reusable" oiled air filters. It's a silly argument over good beer with good riding buddies

Mike

 

[seattleswimboy]

What I don't understand is why dna filters is using an oil filter for this application when they make very good dry filters for other applications. Why would anyone want the oiled filter media vs the dry filter media?

Can you let everyone else with an oiled air filter know what you do please? It would sure save a lot of burned out MAFs and pissed off owners.

That's what bothers me so much about these products...NO ONE F*CKING KNOWS HOW TO USE THEM PROPERLY!!!!!

Plus, I stand by what I said about putting oil in a part of the air intake where oil shouldn't be. Just because oiled filters are used in racing applications doesn't mean they have any business in consumer vehicles. Does Joe 6-pack tear down his engine on the regular, like a race car driver?

Shall we recommend K&N and DNA filters to our friends in the southwestern United States, where it's dirty and dusty? The particulates are FAR more likely to pass by the micro fibers of the cotton and/or bind with the oil, thus robbing the engine of power far sooner than a typical paper air filter would have.

Again, just an early 40's - something "curmudgeon" who isn't sold on the idea of "reusable" oiled air filters. It's a silly argument over good beer with good riding buddies

Mike

 

[Cornel]

So this is a lie?

High efficiency does not mean more restrictive. Efficiency has nothing to do with CFM. DNA has a higher CFM then stock, therefore less restrictive.

 

[Noelpolar]

Since we are all sharing.... prior to getting the new filter box and filter for my Land cruiser I ran the only filter known to work with the dusting problem.... it was an oiled foam Unifilter..... one needed two of them.... so one could go into service whilst the other was undergoing the cleaning process..... serviced every 5,000km.... and a can of Maf sensor spray.... easy to see why they are not a mainstream thing.... the oil appplication was an exact measured thing.... the filter had 2 seperate layers... an outer and an inner

On my caravan (trailer) I have a positive air pressure system that presurizes the van to keep dust out on our unsealed roads.... I have a vehicle based cotton pod filter on that (not an oiled one... would smell)..... anyway... a boat bilge blower is used to shift the air.... and under the inside vent there is always fine dust on the shelf below it.... so... I would not want one of those on any motor.... that I cared about.... but for this application there is far less dust overall.

As far as samples of one or two go.... there is not hard to find old people who have eaten "the standard american diet" all their life.... but.... at a population level... my money will always be on the "mediterranean diet" if population based longevity is the measure.

 

[Keehn]

Since we are all sharing.... prior to getting the new filter box and filter for my Land cruiser I ran the only filter known to work with the dusting problem.... it was an oiled foam Unifilter..... one needed two of them.... so one could go into service whilst the other was undergoing the cleaning process..... serviced every 5,000km.... and a can of Maf sensor spray.... easy to see why they are not a mainstream thing.... the oil appplication was an exact measured thing.... the filter had 2 seperate layers... an outer and an inner

On my caravan (trailer) I have a positive air pressure system that presurizes the van to keep dust out on our unsealed roads.... I have a vehicle based cotton pod filter on that (not an oiled one... would smell)..... anyway... a boat bilge blower is used to shift the air.... and under the inside vent there is always fine dust on the shelf below it.... so... I would not want one of those on any motor.... that I cared about.... but for this application there is far less dust overall.

As far as samples of one or two go.... there is not hard to find old people who have eaten "the standard american diet" all their life.... but.... at a population level... my money will always be on the "mediterranean diet" if population based longevity is the measure.

Yes...you have clearly improvised to adapt to your surroundings. Do you feel confident that, if you had to purchase a vehicle from another person in your local area, they were as equally diligent in maintaining the vehicle (assuming an oiled filter is present)?

I'm simply pointing out the "least-common denominator" amongst American car/motorcycle owners who, buy into the oiled air filter hype, but don't bother doing the regular maintenance on them, or, buy them for no reason at all (e.g. K&N filter for the Toyota Camry "grocery-getter"). I cannot know, nor speak for Australian riders, so this is an area I'm completely unfamiliar, but I CAN speak for my native country...and a great deal of us don't work on our own stuff, present company excluded.

Lastly, oiled air filters no doubt work well on older carbureted naturally aspirated racing engines, which is likely where the idea originated. As for my useless contributions to this discussion, they'll likely end, as again, they are pointless, I've stopped having fun, and there's no use beating a dead horse here.

It's YOUR bike, I have my bike, we all have our own s*it to do and worry about. Let's leave it at that!

Mike

 

[Pork Rind]

The DNA air filter is LESS restrictive 124.30 cfm as opposed to the more restrictive stock filter at 101.60 cfm. Pull the plastic shit off.

How much air flow does a 110 cubic inch motor need at 4750 rpm?

 

[csargent]

Can you let everyone else with an oiled air filter know what you do please? It would sure save a lot of burned out MAFs and pissed off owners.

That's what bothers me so much about these products...NO ONE F*CKING KNOWS HOW TO USE THEM PROPERLY!!!!!

Plus, I stand by what I said about putting oil in a part of the air intake where oil shouldn't be. Just because oiled filters are used in racing applications doesn't mean they have any business in consumer vehicles. Does Joe 6-pack tear down his engine on the regular, like a race car driver?

Shall we recommend K&N and DNA filters to our friends in the southwestern United States, where it's dirty and dusty? The particulates are FAR more likely to pass by the micro fibers of the cotton and/or bind with the oil, thus robbing the engine of power far sooner than a typical paper air filter would have.

Again, just an early 40's - something "curmudgeon" who isn't sold on the idea of "reusable" oiled air filters. It's a silly argument over good beer with good riding buddies

Mike

 

[Pork Rind]

The last two times my bike has started without having to hit the starter twice so the DNA filter is so far paying off.. it's the only thing I've changed!

WOW, try putting a paper element back in and see if it continues. Two times is hardly statistically relevant.

 

[OscarTGrouch]

So this is a lie?

Can't be a lie you found it on the internet! and we all know everything on the internet is true! LOL

 

[Pork Rind]

I'm not usually an old curmudgeon in situations like these (I'm not too old, BTW ), but air filters are a topic that I feel I need to add my useless 0.000002 cents to.

K&N, DNA, and any other "oiled" air filter companies are complete B.S. Period. Air filters, oil filters, transmission filters, ANYTHING that says "filter" is a CONSUMABLE product, and should be regarded as such. Anything else is disingenuous at best.

What happens is either: The owner fails to regularly CLEAN and oil their air filter, per the maintenance schedule laid out by the manufacturer. Mass-airflow sensor clogs and fails due to the atomized oil spray coming from the oil on the air filter pleats. Engine performance suffers due to loss of MAF, plus clogged air filter restricts airflow, further restricting airflow. ECU runs rich mixture setting, reducing MPGs, causing excessive carbon buildup on valves, O2 sensors eventually cause "check engine" light to turn on.

Owner regularly cleans and oils their air filter religiously. MAF clogs ANYWAYS, because there's oil spray where there shouldn't be oil in the air intake (the MAF has a hot string of metal just hanging out in the airstream, waiting for oil to drop by and burn itself onto it). Engine performance suffers due to loss of MAF, but airflow isn't clogged, so at least the engine has that going for it, but the engine computer doesn't know that, because the MAF is the airflow sensor...and now it's burned out.

And, the engine suffers the same fate as scenario one.

The bottom line is that almost NO ONE maintains their oiled air filters, and that, even with the best maintained filters...modern-day engines with electronic sensors are simply not compatible with them.

Mike

If you've ever d*cked around with these air filters, had the MAF sh*t the bed, tell the kid customer with the K&N air filter and decal on his air box that the car needs a new Bosch or Pierburg (big num $$$$, because it comes from Germany), and he should replace the K&N with a stock air filter, so you put a stock Mann air filter back in for him, and he comes back 3 months later telling you you sold him a bad MAF, and he just cleaned, oiled and reinstalled the K&N air filter, because it's drenched in their sticky red filter oil, and you can see the dusted air intake right behind the K&N air filter, then you know.... If you know.... you know.... experience is an expensive teacher, and some people never further their education in the filtering abilities and uses of paper elements by the most demanding air filtering requirements in the world on heavy mining and agriculture equipment.

The old saying... "you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink" applies here. Here's your sign....