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Converting rim from tube to tubeless

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The way I did mine I can also get to each individual spoke to reseal it if I had to and then reseal it. I didn't like the outex kit because I don't think it would have performed well on these rims. The heads of the spokes protrude quite a bit at an angle that I don't think these "stickers" would adequately cover them correctly.
4Zweistein, any issues with your rim sealing strategy holding after 7-8 months on the road?
 
No issue whatsoever! The tires hold the pressure better than with the tubes. I had a very slight leak in the beginning on the front wheel but that was because the tire bead was leaking against the rim. I released the air and reinflated it hitting th tire with a rubber mallet and it sealed completely.
 
After 2 flats that took hours to fix, I decided to convert my rims from tube to tubeless. I sealed every spoke head individually with a automotive body sealer that stays somewhat flexible . Let it dry overnight and then covered the rim with a rubberized high heat tape. The tape is very sticky and provides a absolutely airtight seal. After 2 months of riding I noticed no loss of pressure and only had to adjust the front and back tire pressure for temperature related change. The total cost came to $40 and a couple of hours of work. Can't wait to have flat:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:. I always carry a small compressor and plugs with me and was able to a HD rider with a flat to get back on the road in no time at all. I watched U tube videos about the process with different materials and decided to do my way. The valve stems I purchased from NAPA Autoparts.
What happens when its time to tighten adjust spokes?
 
No issue whatsoever! The tires hold the pressure better than with the tubes. I had a very slight leak in the beginning on the front wheel but that was because the tire bead was leaking against the rim. I released the air and reinflated it hitting th tire with a rubber mallet and it sealed completely.
Fantastic. Thank you. Really appreciate the information.
 
I just took my stock front rim to a local bike shop to have the rubber transferred to a mag rim. They haven't called me yet but when leaving, I noticed the valve stem rim hole on the mag was noticeably large. What's up with non standard size valve stem geometry?
 
How much does this effect the balance of the wheel ?
 
I just took my stock front rim to a local bike shop to have the rubber transferred to a mag rim. They haven't called me yet but when leaving, I noticed the valve stem rim hole on the mag was noticeably large. What's up with non standard size valve stem geometry?
There are (2) standard sizes for valve stems. The larger hole size is common on American bikes while the smaller is typical on European bikes. The accessory wheels likely use the larger stems.
I would take the opportunity to install a set of 90 degree aluminum stems.
 
The way I did mine I can also get to each individual spoke to reseal it if I had to and then reseal it. I didn't like the outex kit because I don't think it would have performed well on these rims. The heads of the spokes protrude quite a bit at an angle that I don't think these "stickers" would adequately cover them correctly.
FWIW I followed the same process with the roofing sealant and tape reported by Y 4Zweistein after a rear tire puncture and after two months and several hundred miles I’ve had no issues whatsoever with tire pressure loss, vibration etc. I “balanced” the wheels with Ride on sealant.

Pretty simple process actually. I did the tire changes using the Rabaconda tire changer. Definitely a learning curve (at least for me) but it worked reasonably well with no dealer trip involved.
 
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