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Clutch issue for R18 Transcontinental

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LatifC

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R18 - Transcontinental
Hi guys,

Firstly, I'm new here. That's why Hello All!

I owned my Transcontinental 2 weeks ago. I have a clutch issue from the beginning of riding him. When the engine is highly warmed, it starts to miss the clutch. Does anyone have this issue?

I will also upload video soon.

Best regards,
 

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Can you explain what you mean by missing the clutch? Does shifting become difficult, does it slip?
 
When you open the throttle while in gear, the speed increases and the motorcycle does not accelerate. It feels like it's wasted. There was no problem in the clutch adjustment, but the service said it would be removed if necessary.
 
When you open the throttle while in gear, the speed increases and the motorcycle does not accelerate. It feels like it's wasted. There was no problem in the clutch adjustment, but the service said it would be removed if necessary.
Sounds like slipping for sure. Sorry to hear of your problem. If they tried whatever adjustment is available it is probably time to have them open it up. Consider making a lemon law claim if you have it
 
Hi,

experiencing the same issue. When the engine is warm (a few minutes of stop and go traffic), the clutch is very soft requiring the lever to be fully released to get it to start to engage. Only about 100 miles on the bike, so will definitely have them look at it during break in maintenance appt.

Cheers.
 
Try not to throttle the bike in stop & go traffic.Just use the idle torque of the engine or the clutch will over heat.It is a slipper clutch so a bit different.
Again,if it is possible,just feather the clutch and let the big flywheel do the work and throttle when you have the clutch lever full out and the clutch is engaged.
Gday!
 
My bike isnt here yet so forgive me...
But can you adjust the clutch lever to where it grabs closer to the handgrip?
 
Is there a cable adjust?
Im hoping its an adjustment issue rather than a clutch issue at this point.

With the bike running and in gear, how far out is the lever before the clutch starts to grab?
If its too far out it may not be fully releasing.
IDK
 
Is there a cable adjust?
Im hoping its an adjustment issue rather than a clutch issue at this point.

With the bike running and in gear, how far out is the lever before the clutch starts to grab?
If its too far out it may not be fully releasing.
IDK
It is a hydraulic clutch.It has a reservior like the front brake that holds fluid.No cable.
 
Not really.
When I first got my R18C we got caught in a traffic jam in Sedona while the bike was still a 2 wheeler.The clutch did get mushy and I found I needed to change my riding style,just a bit.
Let the clutch do the work without giving throttle til the clutch is fully engaged,then throttle(the bike has more than enough torque to get the bike moving without the use of the throttle).Wet clutch bikes like my Indian don't have this issue.The BMW clutch is dry and there is a difference.
I posted something about this about a year ago.The engine did not get hot in the Arizona heat but being on the throttle with the clutch 1/2 way out in traffic like that will cause a issue.
I'm just sharing what happened to me.Form your own opinion as I am no expert though this is the only bike I have ever expierenced this situation and I have been riding 2 wheelers since 1962.
The fact that the bike had less than 1000 miles may have had something to do with it.Not sure,but I have not expierenced the problem since that time.I have 20,000 miles on the bike now and I am pulling a sidecar.Never happened again.
These bikes do need some break in as the engine is smoother and more powerful than when it was new.
Lots of complaints here at times.Just putting some miles on and riding the bike helps a bunch with smiles of miles.

Gday.TK
 
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I was told about a clutch issue by a BMW employee at a test ride event. The dry clutches used by BMW in the R18 has an off-gassing that occurs in the 1st 50-100 miles. Those gases caused slip at higher rpms.
In most cases is simply goes away with use but perhaps not in all cases.
 
I was told about a clutch issue by a BMW employee at a test ride event. The dry clutches used by BMW in the R18 has an off-gassing that occurs in the 1st 50-100 miles. Those gases caused slip at higher rpms.
In most cases is simply goes away with use but perhaps not in all cases.
Good info as alway from you MD,thx!
 
Very early on, within the first two days of ownership of my R18 B; I remember wrestling with the clutch and adjusting the physical hand lever adjustment dial in order to get a more comfortable grip.

It felt like the lever was bottoming out on the grip and remaining fingers, where I wasn't able to disengage the clutch in order to shift to another gear. All has been working well since the adjustment, over the last year of riding or 6k miles later. I agree with the feathered clutch use.
 
Thanks for the info in this thread, I have about 700 miles on my standard naked r18 and took it out for a 120 mile ride today, I got stuck in some slow traffic for a while then I pulled off at BMW for a cup o coffee and when I took off I noticed if I tried to do a jack rabbit start in first gear the clutch would slip then I let off and it engaged, then I shifted to 2nd and the same thing happened, so I let it fully engage, gently worked it up to speed (65) 6th gear for a while, then I tested it after about 20 minutes by slowing down and having it in a gear to high for the speed, then give it throttle and there was no slip just lugging the motor, So from the info here I guess when this clutch gets hot don't gas on it or it will slip while in Rock mode. So much for doing rear wheel burnouts like H.D.'s do LoL :)
 
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This is the exact problem I’m having. 5200 mi on my TC and when it’s hot, I can pop the clutch in first and it will just slowly grab. Cruising in 4th at 40mph then pin it, it revs high then slowly grabs. Dealership said they couldn’t replicate of course. Time to move on to a Harley I’m afraid
 
Is there a cable adjust?
Im hoping its an adjustment issue rather than a clutch issue at this point.

With the bike running and in gear, how far out is the lever before the clutch starts to grab?
If its too far out it may not be fully releasing.
IDK
No cable adjust it's a hydraulic clutch system. So no clutch adjustment per say. I think he hasn't let the clutch out enough. I would check the clutch lever fluid level maybe it got air in the line and just needs to be bleed.
 
No cable adjust it's a hydraulic clutch system. So no clutch adjustment per say. I think he hasn't let the clutch out enough. I would check the clutch lever fluid level maybe it got air in the line and just needs to be bleed.
Sorta not true..... there is adjustment..... I tweek both the front brake and clutch master cyclinder pins to optimise lever travel/cylinder piston travel. There is a lock grub screw under each lever and then you adjust the piston actuator from the side.

Possible the clutch lever unit's grub screw has come loose allowing the piston to travel in pressurising the clutch hydralics.... more slipping might occur as the bike heats up and fluid expands.... it is a thing.

Pre 2017 r9t's have a similar lever grub screw thing..... here is a long waffly thread over in that forum on it... https://www.ninetowners.com/threads/brake-clutch-lever-freeplay-pre-2017-models.71521/#replies

As a warning.... to get this right.... one is adjusting the master cylinder piston "pre load".... so that it travels less before pressurising the fluid (as the port to the resevour is then closed) and this needs to be done so that the piston does return enough to ensure the port is opened when the lever is released.

Adjusting these can give a shorter lever take up...... just like cable tensioning does..... all quite different to lever "reach" adjustment.
 
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Noelpolar's advice is true and very accurate. The clutch on my 2023 R18 Pure with under 5,000 miles began slipping on a recent 4-week trip to the eastern Canadian provinces. It was diagnosed in New Brunswick to be a slave cylinder issue, but they would not make repairs because USA and Canada warranties are not reciprocated. I "limped" the bike back into Maine, then rented a U-Haul to take the bike to Pennsylvania where I had trailered my bike to meet up with my riding buddy. Once back home in Texas, I took the bike to BMW San Antonio, and the tech there correctly diagnosed the slipping clutch problem to be caused by a misadjusted clutch lever friction point. Such a simple solution for a major problem. Bike is still in the shop awaiting new clutch lever parts under warranty, but I'm assured the problem is fixed. To the OP, please read this post and share with your dealer/service manager.
 
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