Bobber kit options to date

[snider1970]

Good to know I am not the only one.

 

[Star-Lord]

At work today. When the fender arrives I will reach out if I need any clarification. I may have to remove the lights anyways for paint.

It looks like you can order the KELLERMAN stuff from this place in Ohio:



Spiegler Performance Parts
1699 Thomas Paine Parkway
Dayton, Ohio 45459
Phone: 937-291-1735
[email protected]

Atto Dark Integral LED Turn Signal

The smallest and brightest Turn Signal on Planet Earth!

spieglerusa.com

 

[snider1970]

It looks like you can order the KELLERMAN stuff from this place in Ohio:



Spiegler Performance Parts
1699 Thomas Paine Parkway
Dayton, Ohio 45459
Phone: 937-291-1735
[email protected]

http://[URL][URL]https://spieglerus...8hd9shGzbVmJyHe5rDsQ3xZat9VIHIUS1v8WJAw&gQT=2

[/URL][/URL]

That where was recommended to me by Wunderlich. I ordered my Atto lights from them. Great service and delivery time. My fender should be here tomorrow. I'm curious if I'm going to be able to modify Han's work to get what I wanted since it is unpainted. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Star-Lord]

If the KELLERMANN ATTO lights are actually epoxied into the fended rail, it might be best to just go with the original lighting and just utilize the RED colored light's wiring.

Maybe pretest the wiring and the lighting differences before drilling out the Euro standard lights and installing the newly purchased 2-wire lights?

The difference between the running lights and the brake lights is a varied voltage level.

 

[snider1970]

GOOD NEWS! My fender did not come with lights, BUT it also came super rough. Crappy welds, uneven lines, missing items (my frame plugs item 2040) from my order and double charged for the mounts. I AM PISSED! Hans is never getting a recommendation for work. It's amazing what is covered up with bondo and paint. There are still burrs hanging from the edges. This is an embarrassment to take to paint. This took 5 months to turn out. What a waste of time and money.

 

[MilwDave]

GOOD NEWS! My fender did not come with lights, BUT it also came super rough. Crappy welds, uneven lines, missing items (my frame plugs item 2040) from my order and double charged for the mounts. I AM PISSED! Hans is never getting a recommendation for work. It's amazing what is covered up with bondo and paint. There are still burrs hanging from the edges. This is an embarrassment to take to paint. This took 5 months to turn out. What a waste of time and money. View attachment 18044

I’ve never seen one shipped raw. But after seeing that I’m glad I paid the $400 to have him finish and paint mine because it arrived flawless.

 

[snider1970]

I’ve never seen one shipped raw. But after seeing that I’m glad I paid the $400 to have him finish and paint mine because it arrived flawless.

I tried to order it painted with no stripes but he couldn't grasp that. Maybe the Google translator isn't good. Oh well, at least I get my lights and get to practice with some JB weld to fill the dozens of holes left in the welds. Maybe I can try and straighten the lines as well. For the $1400 I spent + now having to paint it and buy lights, I think I could have went down the road here in AZ and had Paul Yaffe build me one that would have been EXACTLY what I asked for. Lesson learned.

 

[Star-Lord]

No words...

 

[Star-Lord]

GOOD NEWS! My fender did not come with lights, BUT it also came super rough. Crappy welds, uneven lines, missing items (my frame plugs item 2040) from my order and double charged for the mounts. I AM PISSED! Hans is never getting a recommendation for work. It's amazing what is covered up with bondo and paint. There are still burrs hanging from the edges. This is an embarrassment to take to paint. This took 5 months to turn out. What a waste of time and money. View attachment 18044

Did it include separate LED lights within the delivery..?

 

[snider1970]

I tried to order it painted with no stripes but he couldn't grasp that. Maybe the Google translator isn't good.

Did it include separate LED lights within the delivery..?

Nope. I didn't want them. He got that part right. will spit at LMC Cycles from here out.

 

[Star-Lord]

I certainly can't say that my overall experience was pleasant... It took a long time and the bank transfer communications was horrible..

Hans still owes me a redesigned bracket, which prevents the bracket from making contact under a heavy compression of the swingarm.

Are the below image:

 

[snider1970]

I certainly can't say that my overall experience was pleasant... It took a long time and the bank transfer communications was horrible..

Hans still owes me a redesigned bracket, which prevents the bracket from making contact under a heavy compression of the swingarm.

Are the below image:

View attachment 18046

Ouch! I wouldn't hold your breath. Can that be fixed by using a different shock setting?

 

[Star-Lord]

Ouch! I wouldn't hold your breath. Can that be fixed by using a different shock setting?

I suspect that I can increase the shock setting for a heavier person; me personally, I'm in the 180 - 185 lbs range (Libra, enjoy long walks, motorcycles, etc..), which is basically at the extreme low end of the shocks dynamic range.

 

[snider1970]

I certainly can't say that my overall experience was pleasant... It took a long time and the bank transfer communications was horrible..

Hans still owes me a redesigned bracket, which prevents the bracket from making contact under a heavy compression of the swingarm.

Are the below image:

View attachment 18046

How hard was it to get those brackets on? Mine seem to have conflict with the brake lines and hard to reach the bolts for tightening.

 

[Star-Lord]

I decided to incorporate the existing plastic mudd guard that comes stock with the R18 platform; this is where I located all of the electrical connections for maintenance & serving reasons.

I unclipped the rear brake hydraulic line from the swingarm frame, in order to route it under the LMC bracket (see picture):

I removed the servo control module in order to gain access to LMC bracket screws, located inside and out of eyes view; I installed the bracket very loosely, in order to align the mating of the rear fender assembly.

I first installed the adjoining bracket piece onto the fender retaining points, prior to fitting the fender into place. Same with the frame mounting bracket, I kept everything pretty loose in order to align things properly; this included the fender stay bracket on the rear swing arm.

Once everything seemed to align without any stress, I started tightening the different points in a round robin pattern, with the idea that I would touch all of the screws at least three (3) to five (5) times, until secure.

I hope this helps.

 

[Joshminer]

I was going to remove the dual red/amber lights to install the proper two-wire red version.
Hans told me they are cemented in place and they would be near impossible to remove them.
The EURO required two color lights still are plenty bright using only the red side but I really would have preferred the red only version.
What’s ridiculous is I sent Hans all the required information to provide U.S. customers the proper red lights and the wiring diagram to have them function properly. But yet he is still shipping the dual color four wire lights to the U.S.
I also sent him a CAD drawing of the requirements for a U.S. sized license plate mount along with a sample plate and they still screwed that up, placing the light on the side rather than the top.

This back has sat for a long time without proper functioning rear lights. I finally swapped the battery and knocked the dust off. Can you please provide more information on the correct red only lights and diagram you are describing? I currently have the multicolor that are just fubar. Thank you!

 

[snider1970]

This back has sat for a long time without proper functioning rear lights. I finally swapped the battery and knocked the dust off. Can you please provide more information on the correct red only lights and diagram you are describing? I currently have the multicolor that are just fubar. Thank you!

You will need three of these
https://www.wunderlichamerica.com/Resistor_5w-39Ohm_Motorcycle_Workshop_Supplies
And this
https://www.wunderlichamerica.com/bmw-r18-wunderlich-taillight-wiring-harness.html

I used kellerman lights and made sure they were the red brake/turn lights.
There are three styles I know of.

You will need to modify the harness as shown in the diagram. I will tell you, mine work like a dream.

 

[MilwDave]

This back has sat for a long time without proper functioning rear lights. I finally swapped the battery and knocked the dust off. Can you please provide more information on the correct red only lights and diagram you are describing? I currently have the multicolor that are just fubar. Thank you!

Are you using the Kellerman wiring adapter?

 

[snider1970]

Are you using the Kellerman wiring adapter?

No, it is the wiring harness from Wunderlich listed in the link above. It needs slight modification but plugs right into the factory main harness. I soldered in the resistors (and I am not good at soldering) to what shown in the diagram.

I also used these two pin/pole plugs so I could unplug if I ever needed to.
https://revivalcycles.com/collections/motorcycle-parts/products/waterproof-mizu-p25

They are nice and small and easy to hide but buy a few extra. You're bound to mess them up until you get the hang of them. This gives you the full correct red LED lights for US models.

 

[MilwDave]

I have no experience using the Wunderlich product.
But using a simple test meter should allow you to wire match what you have.
You just eliminate the two amber wires from the equation.