Barnyard/Shade Tree Rear Brake Pad Change

[Ulrich]

Looks like I am at it again. Rear brake this time. They have now 12,000 miles on them and are not through yet, but the old pads will make great emergency spares ... so here I go:
I ordered a set of EBC FA749HH pads ... that is the model EBC references for the R18



I took off the saddle bag and muffler on the left side. It can be done without removing the muffler .. just a bit tighter than I like



And yes, if you are wondering, these re not BMW muffler mounts .. I use an aftermarket set that fastens differently ...
Clip the zip-tie near the little clip.





Take out the 2 bolts that hold the caliper on (2 x E14 external Torx) then grab the caliper and rock it back and forth ... with pressure so the pistons retract it will make things a lot easier later



Then pull it out as good as you can, remove the little clip, it should pull straight out real easy.




And the guide stud



You do not need to remove ANY other bolts from the caliper.
Drop the pads out. They fall right out after the guide has been removed.



As suspected .. some wear ... but not too bad.



So now everything in reverse, the pads go in opposite side of the pin first and then fiddle the pin in ... patience is required
Don't forget the zip tie!



I don't have the torque specs for the bolts, just nice-n-tight and some blue Locktite [EDIT: 'WiDu13 stated in a later post that the torque value is 56 Nm, so now we got too! Thanks WiDu 13] ... [EDIT2: Another good tip from WiDu13 ... the guide pin is 10 Nm] The clamp down pressure is not so important on these bolts .. it is the shear that is important on them.
Pump the brake a few times and make sure you have pressure.
Muffler and Saddle Bag back on and good to go ... eat your heart out stealership

 

[R18 100]

I always appreciate video steps for any service.

 

[Ulrich]

I always appreciate video steps for any service.

Thanks

 

[Ulrich]

A quick update ... break action on these EBC pads is good ... the tradgedy is they squeal as badly as my OEM pads did .. the OEM pads quieted down after a few 1000 miles ... I hope these do too ... sigh ... I will try a different brand next time.

 

[JAMUSAURUS]

A quick update ... break action on these EBC pads is good ... the tradgedy is they squeal as badly as my OEM pads did .. the OEM pads quieted down after a few 1000 miles ... I hope these do too ... sigh ... I will try a different brand next time.

Did you use brake grease on the pin? That could be a source of squealing

 

[Ulrich]

Did you use brake grease on the pin? That could be a source of squealing

I somewhat doubt that .. the squeal has always been there and seems to settle down as the pads age ... but yes, I clean the pin off real well and then put a really thin coat of molly grease on if ... not sure why I forgot to mention that ... maybe because it is something I just do

 

[widu13]

Great job mate. 56Nm for the caliper bolts.

 

[Ulrich]

Great job mate. 56Nm for the caliper bolts.

Much appreciated !! I will edit the original post to reflect that.

 

[widu13]

Forgot to say that the retaining grub screw is 10Nm

 

[Ulrich]

Forgot to say that the retaining grub screw is 10Nm

More thanks!

 

[Keehn]

I somewhat doubt that .. the squeal has always been there and seems to settle down as the pads age ... but yes, I clean the pin off real well and then put a really thin coat of molly grease on if ... not sure why I forgot to mention that ... maybe because it is something I just do

Something to double-check on is whether any moly grease got on the inner head of the caliper rod. Reason being is any amount of grease in the bottom of the bore will cause hydro-lock on the pin, preventing full travel length to occur.

I've been guilty of doing this before, and now take great pains to ensure I'm ONLY lightly lubricating the sides of the pin. I know you stated you cleaned your pin and then did a light-lube, but I thought I'd mention my past error here for anyone in a similar situation.

Mike

 

[Ulrich]

Ulrich, have you had an occasion to remove the back wheel yet? Your video steps for front wheel removal were very helpful. If you ever take it off for new rubber, give us a few pics and comments. Hint: I need to remove the back wheel as I spent a bucket of money buying BMW's option 719 rims. Oh do they look good.
Anyway, your contributions to this forum are always useful and helpful.

I will make it a picture series .. but only when I have to the rubber in the rear is still good and should get me through the Summer ...

Something to double-check on is whether any moly grease got on the inner head of the caliper rod. Reason being is any amount of grease in the bottom of the bore will cause hydro-lock on the pin, preventing full travel length to occur.

I've been guilty of doing this before, and now take great pains to ensure I'm ONLY lightly lubricating the sides of the pin. I know you stated you cleaned your pin and then did a light-lube, but I thought I'd mention my past error here for anyone in a similar situation.

Mike

Good thinking Mike ... but I put such a thin coat on it (you can barely see it) that I don't think that is the issue ... and for that matter the pads have already quieted down a lot ... maybe they just weren't seated right yet ... one thing to remark is, that I see to have better stopping power ... not that I need that much in the rear .. but it nevertheless is good to have