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audio system settings

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I thought I read that the Amazon posted speaker specifications stated that the impedance as 6 Ohm (which I thought was odd); did you look into the Skar Marine line of speakers.

Does the BMW speaker have four wires going to each speaker; if so, perhaps it's coming from a frequency cross-over? High freq. & the low freq. sub audio range.
yes, the BMW speaker has 4 wires to each speaker. I got the idea for the replacement from a guy on an R18 FB group, and he said he has decades experience with car audio installs. He's the one that said you have to get 2-ohm, dual voice coil subs to replace the BMW's. The ONE that I've done so far does sound great, but bear in mind you are adding 7 lbs of weight to the lid of each case and 15 lbs overall to the weight of the bike by doing both. Makes opening the case lid a little bit of a "take it easy" exercise. If you throw them open with any force, it might overtax the hinges
 
yes, the BMW speaker has 4 wires to each speaker. I got the idea for the replacement from a guy on an R18 FB group, and he said he has decades experience with car audio installs. He's the one that said you have to get 2-ohm, dual voice coil subs to replace the BMW's. The ONE that I've done so far does sound great, but bear in mind you are adding 7 lbs of weight to the lid of each case and 15 lbs overall to the weight of the bike by doing both. Makes opening the case lid a little bit of a "take it easy" exercise. If you throw them open with any force, it might overtax the hinges
I would have liked a 1:1 fit replacement, with a better sounding outcome; acoustical design is a funny thing... heavier typically sounds better, of course the magnet and core is the bulk of that weight.

I think I read somewhere that the side cases are rated for up to 20 lbs each; you still have 15 lbs. in the weight budget for other stuff..
 
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If it makes the new sub sit up any higher than the stock sub, no... The luggage lid cover / speaker grill would not fit. There's almost no space between the driver and the wire grill.
 
Any tips/instructions to remove the grille covers on the bags? I have had the bike a total of 48 hours now and don’t you know a bird dropped a nice surprise for me to come out of work to find embedded in my right speaker grille. Hoping to remove from the bike a flush out with some warm water
 
Any tips/instructions to remove the grille covers on the bags? I have had the bike a total of 48 hours now and don’t you know a bird dropped a nice surprise for me to come out of work to find embedded in my right speaker grille. Hoping to remove from the bike a flush out with some warm water
I think I'd open the case cover, so it'll drain off and use a squirt bottle with warm water.
Shield with a towel so doesn't get all over. Then go for a ride to dry it out.
I expect it'll happen to me sooner or later. :p
 
I think I'd open the case cover, so it'll drain off and use a squirt bottle with warm water.
Shield with a towel so doesn't get all over. Then go for a ride to dry it out.
I expect it'll happen to me sooner or later. :p
fantastic suggestion ... problem solved! :) Water easily came out without entering the subwoofer cavity!

I was completely overthinking things like usual ... and then getting annoyed with ISTA because I couldn't find body disassembly diagrams for K35, as I would be able to do for BMW cars.
 
I connect all my audio thru the fly by wire throttle. The more throttle the better the sound. Crazy how good it works.
 
Can you measure & post the overall height of the removed OEM speaker; I'm sure we'll be able to find a direct replacement which could possibly offer better fidelity without having to butcher the existing luggage case?
The stock sub is 3" deep from back of magnet to front of cone
 
ABORT! This was a terrible idea. I got one sidecase done and decided NOT to do the other. For one thing the hole pattern for screwing down the speaker doesn't match the hole pattern on the stock driver. So I was only able to use one of the factory holes / screws to attach it down. For the rest, I put a bead of silicone down to help seal it in place, and used some small wood screws to attach it to the plastic on the inner lid. Absolutely NOT ideal. I'm not doing that to the other side of my bike. On the plus side, there was enough of a bass sound improvement from just the one sub that at 2/3-3/4 volume, it sounded rich enough that I didn't WANT to turn it up any more. At 3/4 plus volume, the factory sub on the other side started to bottom out again so I still can't turn it up all the way.
Jim can you list a how to for disassembly of the sidecase to access the woofers? Thank you
 
Can you measure & post the overall height of the removed OEM speaker; I'm sure we'll be able to find a direct replacement which could possibly offer better fidelity without having to butcher the existing luggage case?
Hey Scott, just following up. Ever find a good replacement?
 
Hey Scott, just following up. Ever find a good replacement?
No, sorry... I've been pretty happy with the sound system, given the overall expectations at 70+ mph ...

I agree with Jim, the speaker upgrade will most likely require a larger magnet; however, that will immediately pose a fit problem within the fitted case.

Again, given the OEM Marshall speaker is designed for outdoor use (rain, etc.); I personally don't expect it to sound remotely as good as a McIntosh equipped home surround sound system..
 
Been Playing around with the audio on my marshall stage ones. Im finding the studio mode with treble at 3 and bass at 0 gives me a fuller sound with alot better mids and lows coming from the front speakers. Though ive been finding out what helmet you wear can change alot of what you hear at speed. Still love this audio system. but wished i splurged for the stage two.
 
I took apart the left bag lid and 24 screws later...wow, what a chore. Got all the specs figured out and I am currently looking for a more efficient speaker than the Skar sub aicpjim used. I want to do this over the winter because the stocks are just not good. Once I find the best candidate, I will post a complete how to. but probably wont be until after the holidays.
 
Well, after doing a lot of research and talking to a local guy in my town who is a motorcycle stereo guru, I left the system alone for now. Too many unknowns on this system - amp specs plus integration into the TFT makes it risky to mess with. Going to tweak the settings in the TFT and live with it for now.
 
There's a separate thread of a third party speaker and amplifier kit designed for the Model B and the Transcontinental; it looks as though, the kit utilizes the space within the fairing and an additional kit which incorporates speakers in a Lower Leg Wind Protection fairing, which mimics the TC.

At the end of the day... it's a motorcycle and not a home stereo surround sound system.

Screenshot_20250513-064107.png
 
There's a separate thread of a third party speaker and amplifier kit designed for the Model B and the Transcontinental; it looks as though, the kit utilizes the space within the fairing and an additional kit which incorporates speakers in a Lower Leg Wind Protection fairing, which mimics the TC.

At the end of the day... it's a motorcycle and not a home stereo surround sound system.

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Yes you are correct motorad audio in virginia. I have reached out to him to get more information based off of the post that Brian Brown had put on Facebook about his new system. To do a amplifier and two speaker system for the fairing on a r18b or transcontinental is about $1,600 but it comes with the connectors and the plug and Play just have to do some disassembly. between Brian and did subwoofer upgrades in his rear bags and the gentleman at motorad audio I talked to doing anything with the rear bag or speakers is pretty much a waste of time for no gain unless you want to lose space in your bags.
 
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