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Anyone install an aftermarket air filter?

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LBV said:
I'm not expecting any issues and can always put the original back on worse case scenario but truly, with the wideband O2 sensor from the factory, the ECU will adapt for the extra airflow so it should not cause any problems.

I've also got an aftermarket exhaust that shouldn't be on, but again, nothing of concern in my opinion.
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I certainly agree with your opinion, but BMW will disagree should anything totally non related happen…. Which of course will become totally related. Every warranty clerk is instructed to say ‘No’ and see what happens.
 
Petrus said:
Imo it makes véry little sense to go sports filter with the snorkels in place. The filter element is not the bottle neck.
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I have yet to do the install but do the snorkels not have to come off to do the Stage 2 air filter as on my link above?
 
I drilled out some more holes for air in the snorkel, didn't notice anymore noise really. I had an OEM air filter for replacement so just added the extra holes to try to free up some more airflow for now...
 
TodkaVonic said:
Tonight I learned that the air filter isn’t exactly near the chrome “air box cover,” and removal of said cover isn’t required when accessing the filter. No, it’s an item which is accessed by removal of the engine cover. Because of course. I’m sure this isn’t news to many of you, but I couldn’t find hardly a peep about this on the inter webs (or here) and was genuinely curious.

View attachment 1783
Thar she blows! Er, sucks!

So now onto the topic at hand: any advice regarding aftermarket filters? Waste of money? Inbound air passes down a pair of these wee tubes prior to reaching the filter.

View attachment 1785
View attachment 1784
I’m thinking a marginally less restrictive filter will have little consequence. Any “Butt Dyno” experience with filter mods on other boxe
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TodkaVonic said:
Tonight I learned that the air filter isn’t exactly near the chrome “air box cover,” and removal of said cover isn’t required when accessing the filter. No, it’s an item which is accessed by removal of the engine cover. Because of course. I’m sure this isn’t news to many of you, but I couldn’t find hardly a peep about this on the inter webs (or here) and was genuinely curious.

View attachment 1783
Thar she blows! Er, sucks!

So now onto the topic at hand: any advice regarding aftermarket filters? Waste of money? Inbound air passes down a pair of these wee tubes prior to reaching the filter.

View attachment 1785
View attachment 1784
I’m thinking a marginally less restrictive filter will have little consequence. Any “Butt Dyno” experience with filter mods on other boxer engines?
Click to expand...
Hi
have done a lot of mods to my FE and air filter is one of them - i used a K&N - BM1821 made a difference, and fitting would be about 30 mins, take off both badges(1800cc) then bolts from casing downwards, then bolts from top casing ( thru to other side, then do same other side , give casing a bit of a tap to loosen and off it comes, flexi link from front to back remove on both sides, screws to the air box to be removed again both sides, now you are in - remove existing filter and drop in new one then all of the above in reverse, start her up and listen to the new rumble as it can breathe now, next clean about 20000 kms ( you work out the miles )
 
Be aware that K&N elements work differently than centrifugal (oiled) and traditional (sieve) filters.
The K&N uses electrostatic attraction of air passing the metal gauze. The cloth material is to hold the attracted particles ánd to enhance the effect by being treated with an electrostatic fluid. This also explains why the filter is less prone to clogging up.
The fluid though has a tricky aspect. The way it comes from the factory is it VERY lightly applied with no risk of its effect going downstream. DIY applying is where it can go wrong. If the fluid would go downstream it will affect the very sensitive sensors.
 
Petrus said:
Be aware that K&N elements work differently than centrifugal (oiled) and traditional (sieve) filters.
The K&N uses electrostatic attraction of air passing the metal gauze. The cloth material is to hold the attracted particles ánd to enhance the effect by being treated with an electrostatic fluid. This also explains why the filter is less prone to clogging up.
The fluid though has a tricky aspect. The way it comes from the factory is it VERY lightly applied with no risk of its effect going downstream. DIY applying is where it can go wrong. If the fluid would go downstream it will affect the very sensitive sensors.
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Very informative and hence why I bought the dry Sports Filter and had my dealership fit it on the first service.
 
Petrus said:
Be aware that K&N elements work differently than centrifugal (oiled) and traditional (sieve) filters.
The K&N uses electrostatic attraction of air passing the metal gauze. The cloth material is to hold the attracted particles ánd to enhance the effect by being treated with an electrostatic fluid. This also explains why the filter is less prone to clogging up.
The fluid though has a tricky aspect. The way it comes from the factory is it VERY lightly applied with no risk of its effect going downstream. DIY applying is where it can go wrong. If the fluid would go downstream it will affect the very sensitive sensors.
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Is it the same for the dna filter?
 
Joflo said:
Is it the same for the dna filter?
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If the DNA filter needs be re´oiled´ after cleaning then yes.
I myself have gone for the Sprint filter as that is a washable dry filter and the best on the market; race proven for decades.
The Sprint company uses finer fibers meaning that even with the same opening size the filter poses less resistance.
 
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Petrus said:
If the DNA filter needs be re´oiled´ after cleaning then yes.
I myself have gone for the Sprint filter as that is a washable dry filter and the best on the market; race proven for decades.
The Sprint company uses finer fibers meaning that even with the same opening size the filter poses less resistance.
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And that’s exactly why I have a Sprint Filter in mine.
 
Ulrich said:
.... a naturally aspirated engine always 'sucks' ... If you want to change that you will have to go Turbo or Super Charger ... but thats maybe just me ;)
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There is suck and suck.*
With n.a. it is the ambient air pressure which feeds the pump.
More accurately the difference in pressure between the outside of the intake and the inside of the inlet tract.
The smaller the difference the better.
Any drop in pressure over any resistance in the inlet tract = drop in BMEP.
I like the engine to suck no more than necessary.
In the case of the R18 the intake is seriously restricted for reduction of induction noise. This is easily improved in one should want to.
Mine still sucks but noticeably less :cool:

* in performance engines the filling at max torque may be over110% so no sucking but charging by the mass x the high speed (E-kin) air column.
 
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