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RSD Front Engine Cover

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NorCalR18

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R18 First Edition
Question for anyone who has installed the Roland Sands complete front engine cover. Did you have to remove the oil cooler to complete the installation?
 
NorCalR18 said:
Question for anyone who has installed the Roland Sands complete front engine cover. Did you have to remove the oil cooler to complete the installation?
Click to expand...
I only installed the RSD engine cover trim and I had had to drop it down. So I cannot imagine you wouldn’t have to.
There are installation instructions for all the accessories on the website.
 
MilwDave said:
I only installed the RSD engine cover trim and I had had to drop it down. So I cannot imagine you wouldn’t have to.
There are installation instructions for all the accessories on the website.
Click to expand...
I only remove the oil cooler cover when installing mine
 
I might be crazy, but I swear I read somewhere that the front of the engine had to be tilted down to install the FULL RSD breast plate —not just the oil cooler. Anyone?
 
burangs said:
I might be crazy, but I swear I read somewhere that the front of the engine had to be tilted down to install the FULL RSD breast plate —not just the oil cooler. Anyone?
Click to expand...
When I had my oil cooler off, I unbolted the chrome breast plate and tried to wiggle it out from the frame.

Not even close.
 
NorCalR18 said:
Question for anyone who has installed the Roland Sands complete front engine cover. Did you have to remove the oil cooler to complete the installation?
Click to expand...
I am in the middle of installing the RSD front engine cover. You need to remove the lower frame rails on each side to create the space to remove/install the cover.
I have the bike in a chock on a work table and supported the engine using two rubber hockey pucks atop my scissor jack.
If you follow the steps detailed in the instructions it’s really not as intimidating as it sounds. But I will tell you that BMW uses an excessive amount of thread locker on nearly every bolt on this bike. The fasteners are stainless steel so they are a bit soft. I chewed up the Torx heads on a few bolts and I will have to order replacements.
 
Quote:" I chewed up the Torx heads on a few bolts and will have to order replacements."

I learned this lesson the hard way on my R1200C many years ago that snug is better than tight on a BMW bike. Yes, I have had to order replacement fasteners after stripping the head. I even stripped a Phillips head screw using a screw driver!
 
R12C-R18TC said:
Quote:" I chewed up the Torx heads on a few bolts and will have to order replacements."

I learned this lesson the hard way on my R1200C many years ago that snug is better than tight on a BMW bike. Yes, I have had to order replacement fasteners after stripping the head. I even stripped a Phillips head screw using a screw driver!
Click to expand...
Can someone confirm if the R18 head covers and front engine cover are aluminum. I attempted to repair what I thought was a metal ding on the right head cover. The metal itself was ok but the anodized coating was defective. Sanded the whole cover w 320, 600, 2500 grit and polished w aluminum wheel polish. The shine is sharper than the stock satin anodized finish. Maintaining the shine would be more of a challenge but certainly looks cooler!! I ordered the cover trim to tone it down and provide additional engine protection w/o the use of crash bars. I will do the front cover next and the trim.
 
I no longer have mine but from what I remember of the the heft I believe them to be chrome plated steel.
 
MilwDave said:
I no longer have mine but from what I remember of the the heft I believe them to be chrome plated steel.
Click to expand...
Thank you for responding. The weight of the cover indicates that it is not steel and it is NOT magnetic. If it was chromed steel, I wouldn’t have been able to hand sand the chrome plating off. I would’ve had to use a grinder. I am quite sure it was anodized. The only thing I wasn’t sure of is the head cover material metal. I strongly suspect that it is stamped aluminum.
 
33Cruzr said:
Thank you for responding. The weight of the cover indicates that it is not steel and it is NOT magnetic. If it was chromed steel, I wouldn’t have been able to hand sand the chrome plating off. I would’ve had to use a grinder. I am quite sure it was anodized. The only thing I wasn’t sure of is the head cover material metal. I strongly suspect that it is stamped aluminum.
Click to expand...
Seemed to heavy to be aluminum but like I said I don’t have mine to check anymore.
 
Just a heads up:

Check the threads for the roundel bolt holes.

The first RSD engine cover I had come in had incorrect cut threads. They’re supposed to reuse the factory 4mm bolts, but what came in was about 4.5mm.

Replacement cover came in correctly. Unfortunately we didn’t learn this until we spent an hour installing the first one…
 
MilwDave said:
I am in the middle of installing the RSD front engine cover. You need to remove the lower frame rails on each side to create the space to remove/install the cover.
I have the bike in a chock on a work table and supported the engine using two rubber hockey pucks atop my scissor jack.
If you follow the steps detailed in the instructions it’s really not as intimidating as it sounds. But I will tell you that BMW uses an excessive amount of thread locker on nearly every bolt on this bike. The fasteners are stainless steel so they are a bit soft. I chewed up the Torx heads on a few bolts and I will have to order replacements.
Click to expand...
Hi Dave, I’m about to do the RSD front engine cover. Have a front wheel chock. What l want too know is with the scissor Jack under the motor ; do l raise the bike up via s/Jack so rear wheel is just off the ground, or do l raise scissor Jack enough so that bike is stable and rear wheel still on ground?
Thanks, Brett.
 
You only want the jack to support the engine.
So you want the bike upright in a chock then bring the jack up to the point where you feel lift pressure on the engine.
Remember you need the bolt holes on the frame rails to line back up when you’re done. So if you feel any binding when removing the bolts, adjust the jack pressure.
Take your time and it will go smoothly. It’s not as intimidating as it looks.
 
Dave, Ulrich, you were right. Not a hard task at all . The scissor lift under motor just touched lightly. All frame sections went straight back on without drama. Clean bolts as you take them out. Frame bolts , upper 2 are longer than lower 2 bolts. The only thing l would suggest to anyone about to perform this task is: when using Torx attachments , press in firmly toward bolt with one hand ( ratchet head with Torx attachment connected ) and then attempt to loosen Torx bolt . Resistance was encountered, however nothing like upper fork bolts when l removed upper triple clamp. All frame / footrest bolts came out without too much drama.
Follow the photos / diagrams already uploaded here by other members and save yourself some $.
 
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