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R18 Louvered Performance Plates

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Here are some pictures of what it looks like when you remove the side covers and get into the airbox area. I thought some of you would like to see what it looks like in there.
 
HUNTS said:
Those 2 horrible looking alloy bolts on the frame look SO much better when attacked with a gloss black paint pen… they suddenly disappear.
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I have thought about that several times. I always choose to leave them for the industrial look. Idk.
 
Gr8adv said:
Wow did you bend the connecting rods?
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Just the front one. Some builders have the front top mounting lower or stick out way further tto clear the valve cover. I thought this strongest/stiffest.
Also did not bend. Bought an elbow. All tubes cut to size, inserted close fitting tubes in the two joints, V-channeled all to insert; weld the lot together.
 
Petrus said:
Just the front one. Some builders have the front top mounting lower or stick out way further tto clear the valve cover. I thought this strongest/stiffest.
Also did not bend. Bought an elbow. All tubes cut to size, inserted close fitting tubes in the two joints, V-channeled all to insert; weld the lot together.
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I'm in awe of that workmanship; well done. Looks fabulous.
 
LBV said:
My issue with these plates is this: When you're moving, the airflow OVER those plates is in fact sucking air OUT from the inside.

I doubt you'll see any improvement on a dyno unless factors are being played with but unfortunately a dyno is with the bike stationary so will not be realistic.

I applaud your efforts even though Petrus has been there before you. (y)
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I totally agree! The only way to test this is with a 100 mph wind coming into the holes of the breastplate. (A 100 mph because the dyno is testing at the limits of rpms.) A stationary test will simply not yield real-world results. Also, if somehow, by any chance of aerodynamics, the air that is coming in DECREASES in pressure to the air filter (because of being re-routed or "sucked" out of the new holes), then you are going to accomplish the opposite of what you set out to do.
 
For my simple brain there are 2 things at odds here..... one is adding air or removing heat.... sort of at odds with each other.

Fwiw.... AI says:
A 10°C reduction in intake air temperature increases air density, which typically yields about a 1.5% to 2.0% increase in horsepower and torque. On an 1800cc (1.8L) motor producing 100 hp, this equals a gain of roughly 1.5 to 2 horsepower.

So... ducts forward or ducts facing the rear.... if my plan works I can try both directions by swapping them from side to side with a 180 rotation thrown in. I expect the outcome is.... that my execution of said "bright idea" will be shit and I'll never report back on it.
 
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Noelpolar said:
For my simple brain there are 2 things at odds here..... one is adding air or removing heat.... sort of at odds with each other.

Fwiw.... AI says:
A 10°C reduction in intake air temperature increases air density, which typically yields about a 1.5% to 2.0% increase in horsepower and torque. On an 1800cc (1.8L) motor producing 100 hp, this equals a gain of roughly 1.5 to 2 horsepower.

So... ducts forward or ducts facing the rear.... if my plan works I can try both directions by swapping them from side to side with a 180 rotation thrown in. I expect the outcome is.... that my execution of said "bright idea" will be shit and I'll never report back on it.
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This thread is wonderful illustration of what the human mind, imagination can come up with.
Allowing ambient air into the openings the engineers originally had imagined for that, increases air flow, lowering the temp.
Tested and proven by accelerometer and time to top speed (one up and two up) in the real world :cool:
For the rest TIOLI.
Have fun (y)
 
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