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R18 Louvered Performance Plates

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1789222567#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter Lennstang
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I can see the oil pan protection plate on a GS Adventure, which is very capable off road... however, NOT on any of R18 platforms..

I would image that the protection plate adds a level of complexity to something as simple as changing the oil; even if, there are access cut outs for the drain plug and the oil filter..?
 
Well, my plan tomorrow is to drill the plates and remove the snorkels, then pray to the R18 God for positive results 🤞🏽
 
Petrus said:
For a try simply leave the plates off and also the filter lid. The filter will stay put; don't worry about that.
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I haven’t got the filter with the frame, just the filter alone. As I’ve got 2 sets of plates, I’ll drill into one and if I feel that it was a good idea (I’m trusting your research and judgement as it sounds very legitimate), I’ll drill into the new ones.
 
HUNTS said:
I haven’t got the filter with the frame, just the filter alone. As I’ve got 2 sets of plates, I’ll drill into one and if I feel that it was a good idea (I’m trusting your research and judgement as it sounds very legitimate), I’ll drill into the new ones.
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I see no need to drill. I expect standing the plates off 1/4 inch would be far more effective and look cool and be cool.
 
Gr8adv said:
I see no need to drill. I expect standing the plates off 1/4 inch would be far more effective and look cool and be cool.
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I can see the logic to it and it’s a great idea. My only concern is what debris (dust and bugs mainly) would enter through the front of the plate whilst riding.
 
HUNTS said:
I can see the logic to it and it’s a great idea. My only concern is what debris (dust and bugs mainly) would enter through the front of the plate whilst riding.
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Why are you not equally concerned with what comes in your factory intake?
 
HUNTS said:
Wou

I didn’t think there would be the same free access.
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You might want to rethink. Your only intake IS your intake. Dust in the wind is dust in the wind.

As a side note, (pun intended) the side plates will likely only expel air that taken in by the stock intake if you remove the snorkels.
 
Gr8adv said:
You might want to rethink. Your only intake IS your intake. Dust in the wind is dust in the wind.

As a side note, (pun intended) the side plates will likely only expel air that taken in by the stock intake if you remove the snorkels.
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Is that good or bad?
 
HUNTS said:
Is that good or bad?
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Bottom line is, it’s hard to live when you are afraid of dying. Don’t worry about opening up your sideplates.

You have an air filter to filter dust and crap that is what it is for. If you want to protect your air filter you can put some frogzkin over your existing factory filter. If you want to protect that frogzkin protecting your filter you can put more over the existing air intake. If you want to protect your frogzkin, protecting your frogzkin protecting your filter you can leave your bike in the garage.
 
Here's the results of my dyno session yesterday. I went to Vintage Performance in Sandown NH. https://vintageperformanceproducts.com/ Vinni is an engineer by trade. He's an expert on vintage 2 strokes. We had very good results. The airbox area in the engine does get very hot. Vinni inserted a temp probe up into the airbox area to record the temps during the dyno pulls. (shows up as EGT temp on the dyno chart) My performance plates worked....the gains were more than expected. 20 degrees cooler with letting the air flow through the upper engine cases. See for yourself. Blue is with the stock 1800 emblems. Red is the gains with my performance plates. Video to follow shortly.
 

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Lennstang said:
Here's the results of my dyno session yesterday. I went to Vintage Performance in Sandown NH. https://vintageperformanceproducts.com/ Vinni is an engineer by trade. He's an expert on vintage 2 strokes. We had very good results. The airbox area in the engine does get very hot. Vinni inserted a temp probe up into the airbox area to record the temps during the dyno pulls. (shows up as EGT temp on the dyno chart) My performance plates worked....the gains were more than expected. 20 degrees cooler with letting the air flow through the upper engine cases. See for yourself. Blue is with the stock 1800 emblems. Red is the gains with my performance plates. Video to follow shortlyn
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Wonderful. Was there manufactured air speed?
 
Lennstang said:
Here's the results of my dyno session yesterday. I went to Vintage Performance in Sandown NH. https://vintageperformanceproducts.com/ Vinni is an engineer by trade. He's an expert on vintage 2 strokes. We had very good results. The airbox area in the engine does get very hot. Vinni inserted a temp probe up into the airbox area to record the temps during the dyno pulls. (shows up as EGT temp on the dyno chart) My performance plates worked....the gains were more than expected. 20 degrees cooler with letting the air flow through the upper engine cases. See for yourself. Blue is with the stock 1800 emblems. Red is the gains with my performance plates. Video to follow shortly.
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Thanks. Confirms the lower range of my accelerometer results.

Seriously I réally appreciate this. Nothing new for mé as both the science and engineering of the idea are sound but it still is another hard confirmation.

About 2 strokes I nowadays limit myself to tuning not so modern Vespas by 'supercharging' with exhaust and then matching intake/jetting.

Anyway, we are blessed with the wideband O2 sensors in our R18.

For the rest of the forum; TIOLI.
 
A slightly unrelated question, when looking at dyno runs on bikes like (ish) the R18 (so HD 114/117s etc).... all the dyno curves seem to taper from nothing with a "real" starting point around 2,000 to 2,500rpm.... personally I want real detail from just off Idle and very much 1500 plus rpm. I want to know what the full rev range performance is.

Why is this?..... I'm left assuming that the focus is on midrange to top end and/or the bikes can't pull well in off Idle to 2,000rpm (my R18 is awesome in that range) or is it a dyno short comming?
 
Fwiw.... I bought a set of the "horns"..... thinking to mount them facing rearward.... I expect to play with them for 2-4 hours, scratch my head, then put them on the shelf to death we do part.

Other ideas for them are back scratchers, ear plugs holders, use on helmet for Viking day rides etc.

Possibly, with them mounted backwards, powered via the venturie effect, at a certain speed and air density, they will sing like mermaids from jagged rocks while an old sailing ship passed. If so, I'll attempt to re-tune them to the 20 virgins at the end of my bed channel. Off course, I may just be dreaming.
 
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Noelpolar said:
Fwiw.... I bought a set of the "horns"..... thinking to mount them facing rearward.... I expect to play with them for 2-4 hours, scratch my head, then put them on the shelf to death we do part.

Other ideas for them are back scratchers, ear plugs holders, use on helmet for Viking day rides etc.

Possibly, with them mounted backwards, powered via the venturie effect, at a certain speed and air density, they will sing like mermaids from jagged rocks while an old sailing ship passed. If so, I'll attempt to re-tune them to the 20 virgins at the end of my bed channel. Off course, I may just be dreaming.
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I think that is cool. I do the same kind of research. My engineering brain is always wasting tons of my time. I love it.

I can’t wait til I get a prototype of a side vent air scoop.
 
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