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Question Brake/clutch lever removal.

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HUNTS

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Western Australia
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2025 Brooklyn Grey ‘Blacked Out’
I have a ‘25 model and I need a simple explanation (limited mechanical knowledge) on how to remove the clutch and brake levers, as I am getting them powder coated black.
IMG_1710.jpeg
 
I have a ‘25 model and I need a simple explanation (limited mechanical knowledge) on how to remove the clutch and brake levers, as I am getting them powder coated black.
View attachment 19944
Not sure how accurate this is, but you might give it a try. I asked my buddy openai :)


🛠️

For both levers you’ll need:

✔ Torx bits — typically:

  • T25 (switch gear fasteners)
  • T30 or T40 (lever pivot bolt, varies by supplier batch)
✔ 10mm wrench (nut under pivot bolt, depending on year)

✔ Light grease (lithium or silicone) for reassembly


🏍️

BMW puts microswitches under BOTH levers:

  • Clutch side: switch for starter interlock / cruise control
  • Brake side: switch for brake light activation
Do not pry levers outward against the switch — that’s how people break them.


🧰

1. Turn bars fully left

This gives you room and takes tension off the lever.

2. Locate the pivot bolt

  • On top of master cylinder housing
  • Torx head on top
  • Nut underneath (10mm or captive depending on year)

3. Hold nut + remove bolt

  • Use Torx on top
  • Use wrench underneath if there’s a free nut
  • Keep pressure on lever while backing bolt out

4. Support lever & slide out carefully

As you slide it out:

  • Watch the brake light microswitch near the lever pivot
  • Do not yank or twist the lever outward
  • Once play appears, push lever slightly forward to clear switch plunger

5. Remove lever

Set aside, inspect the pivot sleeve and bushings.


🧰

1. Turn bars fully right

Gives room and takes tension off clutch cable/rod.

2. Inspect clutch actuation

R18 uses a cable clutch, so you must give slack.

3. Create slack

There are 2 ways:

Method A — adjuster barrel (easier):

  • At lever perch, rotate adjuster to give slack
  • Goal: get cable nipple loose from lever pocket
Method B — mid-cable adjuster (if lever adjuster runs out)

4. Remove pivot bolt same as brake

  • Torx top
  • Nut bottom depending on build

5. Free the clutch cable

Once bolt is out:

  • Rotate lever to align cable end
  • Lift cable end up and out of the lever slot
  • Do NOT pull cable sideways under load

6. Watch clutch microswitch

Under the lever is a tiny starter interlock switch

  • Don’t depress it with tools
  • Don’t snag the plunger

🧼

Pivot lubrication

Light grease is appropriate on:

✔ Pivot bolt
✔ Lever bore
✔ Cable barrel (clutch only)

Do NOT lubricate the brake microswitch plungers.

Microswitch function test

Before starting engine verify:

Brake side:​

✔ Brake light comes on with minimal lever movement

Clutch side:​

✔ Bike will start in gear with clutch pulled
✔ Cruise control will cancel if you tap clutch (on equipped models)


🕒

  • Brake lever: 5–10 minutes
  • Clutch lever: 10–20 minutes

🧟‍♂️

People tend to:

❌ Pry lever outward → breaks microswitch
❌ Forget clutch cable slack → cable frays
❌ Lose pivot nut under tank plastic
❌ Grease the switch plunger → switch sticks
❌ Pinch switch wiring under lever perch


❓If you’re replacing with aftermarket levers​

Tell me the brand because some shorty and non-BMW-profile levers:

  • Don’t properly depress the brake switch
  • Don’t activate the clutch starter interlock
  • Don’t clear the handguard mounts (if added)
R18s are less picky than S1000RR, but still not totally “Harley-style plug and play.”


If you want diagrams or torque specs:​

Tell me the year (yours = 2025 R18 B) and I’ll give:

  • Pivot torque spec
  • Microswitch exploded diagram
  • Clutch cable slack spec
  • Lubrication points
And if what you really want is a BMW service manual page for the levers, say the word and I’ll generate a formatted PDF-style instruction sheet that looks like the real thing.
 
Not sure how accurate this is, but you might give it a try. I asked my buddy openai :)


🛠️

For both levers you’ll need:

✔ Torx bits — typically:

  • T25 (switch gear fasteners)
  • T30 or T40 (lever pivot bolt, varies by supplier batch)
✔ 10mm wrench (nut under pivot bolt, depending on year)

✔ Light grease (lithium or silicone) for reassembly


🏍️

BMW puts microswitches under BOTH levers:

  • Clutch side: switch for starter interlock / cruise control
  • Brake side: switch for brake light activation
Do not pry levers outward against the switch — that’s how people break them.


🧰

1. Turn bars fully left

This gives you room and takes tension off the lever.

2. Locate the pivot bolt

  • On top of master cylinder housing
  • Torx head on top
  • Nut underneath (10mm or captive depending on year)

3. Hold nut + remove bolt

  • Use Torx on top
  • Use wrench underneath if there’s a free nut
  • Keep pressure on lever while backing bolt out

4. Support lever & slide out carefully

As you slide it out:

  • Watch the brake light microswitch near the lever pivot
  • Do not yank or twist the lever outward
  • Once play appears, push lever slightly forward to clear switch plunger

5. Remove lever

Set aside, inspect the pivot sleeve and bushings.


🧰

1. Turn bars fully right

Gives room and takes tension off clutch cable/rod.

2. Inspect clutch actuation

R18 uses a cable clutch, so you must give slack.

3. Create slack

There are 2 ways:

Method A — adjuster barrel (easier):

  • At lever perch, rotate adjuster to give slack
  • Goal: get cable nipple loose from lever pocket
Method B — mid-cable adjuster (if lever adjuster runs out)

4. Remove pivot bolt same as brake

  • Torx top
  • Nut bottom depending on build

5. Free the clutch cable

Once bolt is out:

  • Rotate lever to align cable end
  • Lift cable end up and out of the lever slot
  • Do NOT pull cable sideways under load

6. Watch clutch microswitch

Under the lever is a tiny starter interlock switch

  • Don’t depress it with tools
  • Don’t snag the plunger

🧼

Pivot lubrication

Light grease is appropriate on:

✔ Pivot bolt
✔ Lever bore
✔ Cable barrel (clutch only)

Do NOT lubricate the brake microswitch plungers.

Microswitch function test

Before starting engine verify:

Brake side:​

✔ Brake light comes on with minimal lever movement

Clutch side:​

✔ Bike will start in gear with clutch pulled
✔ Cruise control will cancel if you tap clutch (on equipped models)


🕒

  • Brake lever: 5–10 minutes
  • Clutch lever: 10–20 minutes

🧟‍♂️

People tend to:

❌ Pry lever outward → breaks microswitch
❌ Forget clutch cable slack → cable frays
❌ Lose pivot nut under tank plastic
❌ Grease the switch plunger → switch sticks
❌ Pinch switch wiring under lever perch


❓If you’re replacing with aftermarket levers​

Tell me the brand because some shorty and non-BMW-profile levers:

  • Don’t properly depress the brake switch
  • Don’t activate the clutch starter interlock
  • Don’t clear the handguard mounts (if added)
R18s are less picky than S1000RR, but still not totally “Harley-style plug and play.”


If you want diagrams or torque specs:​

Tell me the year (yours = 2025 R18 B) and I’ll give:

  • Pivot torque spec
  • Microswitch exploded diagram
  • Clutch cable slack spec
  • Lubrication points
And if what you really want is a BMW service manual page for the levers, say the word and I’ll generate a formatted PDF-style instruction sheet that looks like the real thing.
That would be great. It’s just the standard model, not the B, Classic or Roctane.
 
That would be great. It’s just the standard model, not the B, Classic or Roctane.
welp, sorry, Didn't have access to it. Just repeated what I posted above. Seems to be pretty simple. Give you a chance to get personally acquainted with your bike :). Get yourself a good set of torx sockets or bits and a set of metric wrenches and you should be good to go. If you have a harbor freight handy, use theirs. They're good enough for this job.
 
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