Setting the proper preload for the rear suspension

[Deleted member 1344]

I think BMW should put the TC suspension on all their bikes. There are no bumpy railroad tracks with their computer controlled suspension.

 

[NursePeter]

... I add my thanks for this post along with the rest of the adoring masses. Thankyou... I'm quite gravity positive at 6'4".. I turned it out to 16.. from dealership 0

 

[Randy Kahn]

Good post. My 2023 only has 250 miles on it, the salesman did something to the rear shock adjustment before I road tested the bike. Suspension seems fine, I'm about 172 without the gas....but since you mention it, now I'm gonna check it. Thanks.

 

[GARBOT]

Thank you for the post and the chart Svtweb! I weigh 180 and my first ride on my R18 was 65 miles of spinal abuse!! I found my R18's rear suspension was as you indicated. Using your chart I set mine to 4 turns out and am going to leave it there for a few rides. At that setting the ride is still firm, but still handles quite well and handles bumps and jars MUCH better. I think "big picture" is my K1600B has spoiled me on suspension comfort that I likely won't find on my new favorite cruiser. But if the aftermarket ever presents a more comfortable rear shock/suspension I'm game. Having Harleys for decades taught me that every bike - especially those perfect HDs (although I still love them) - needs a ton of tweaking to get it just right...

 

[emgarciax]

Based of the '22 R 18 Classic manual and considering that riding gear (helmet, jacket, gloves) can be 15 lbs / rider and fuel 26 lbs.
Max payload is 17 lbs. / softbag but I may use 2.5 lbs / per softbag when solo and maybe 15 lbs / per softbag when loaded for long trips.

 

[Shawn Bedser]

Many of the early reviews and many of the first customers have complained about the R18 having a very harsh ride and easily scraping the pegs. This is not indicative of a design flaw on the R18, but a procedural miss by BMW to properly document the unpacking and setup procedures for the customer. During shipping, the rear shock preload is placed in "Shipping" position. That means the adjustment of the rear shock is turned anti-clockwise until it hits the stop. In this position you are basically sitting on the rubber bump-stop on the shock with little to no spring action. During shippin keeps the bike from bouncing around. The manual mentions setting the preload, but it appears that none of the dealers have been doing that. I have created a chart that gives a breakdown of preload from minimum adjustment (0 Turns) to Max Adjustment (26 Turns).

The process is very easy: With a 13mm 6-Point socket, turn the adjuster anti-clockwise until it stops. Slowly rotate the adjuster clockwise until you feel it engage the spring perch (you will feel slight resistance). This is position "0" Continue turning clockwise until you reach the desired preload based on the chart I created.

I hope this helps everyone out.

Have my ( sold here as) new 2023 First Edition, 42km on the clock. Out of curiosity I decided to check my preload settings, lo and behold preload not adjusted at all. Took up slack and adjusted 10 turns, bikes tail must have lifted 15mm or so. Maybe 10 turns too much but I will see when I get the chance for a proper ride, might adjust down to 9 turns. Oddly enough my bike prepped by one of the more prestigious BMW dealers in South Africa, and they missed this important adjustment.

 

[Anibal]

Have my ( sold here as) new 2023 First Edition, 42km on the clock. Out of curiosity I decided to check my preload settings, lo and behold preload not adjusted at all. Took up slack and adjusted 10 turns, bikes tail must have lifted 15mm or so. Maybe 10 turns too much but I will see when I get the chance for a proper ride, might adjust down to 9 turns. Oddly enough my bike prepped by one of the more prestigious BMW dealers in South Africa, and they missed this important adjustment.

They were not the only ones. In the UK when the FE pure was launched, lots of people, including me, complained about harsh suspension, which to be honest made me try the Bagger and the ride was so much better, I ended up buying it. BMW set the suspension to the “shipping mode” to prevent the bikes bouncing up and down whilst in transit and either the memo was not communicated or pretty much every dealership overlooked this tiny detail. I wonder how much was lost in sales when potential buyers found the bike very stiff and walked away.

 

[LBV]

As a new owner and forum member this is a great thread as I'll be checking mine when I get it.

 

[BAD MIKE USA]

I turned mine all the way, counterclockwise until it stopped. According to the video, that is zero point. But according to a different previous post, I need to turn clockwise until I feel resistance, and that is point zero. I weigh 185 pounds american. Today I'm going to start over at totally turned out counter clockwise until it stops and measure the height. Then turn clockwise until I feel resistance and measure again. Maybe continue turning until ride height changes. Do a couple test rides too.

 

[LBV]

Let us know how it goes as I'm probably around 160 lbs with gear on but thankfully it looks like it's easy to adjust from looking at the PDF manual ... at least when compared to most bikes that require a special tool to turn a collar that always ends up in scraped knuckles.

 

[BAD MIKE USA]

I'm going for a foliage ride today, with a 13mm socket and ratchet. Doing some testing! Another excellent excuse to go riding.

 

[Shawn Bedser]

I turned mine all the way, counterclockwise until it stopped. According to the video, that is zero point. But according to a different previous post, I need to turn clockwise until I feel resistance, and that is point zero. I weigh 185 pounds american. Today I'm going to start over at totally turned out counter clockwise until it stops and measure the height. Then turn clockwise until I feel resistance and measure again. Maybe continue turning until ride height changes. Do a couple test rides too.
View attachment 19219

I turned my adjuster all the way anti clockwise till it stopped. Going clockwise there must have been around 1 1/2 to 2 turns before I could feel resistance. Took it 10 turns from there, pretty much sure that was the correct way.

 

[Red64]

I turned my adjuster all the way anti clockwise till it stopped. Going clockwise there must have been around 1 1/2 to 2 turns before I could feel resistance. Took it 10 turns from there, pretty much sure that was the correct way.

I did the same with mine. And the improvement was very significant. I bought mine used and was told by the dealer they don’t adjust.
Sounds like your riding weight is similar to mine.

What I have noticed is that I don’t notice a big difference when either my wife or daughter jump on. According to the chart I would need to add 8 to 10 turns.

Also as I have lost weight over the past few months I have not adjusted down, as maybe I should have, but don’t know if it is because of the ride height or maybe it is because I am getting more familiar with the bike but I get the sense handling is slightly improved.

Interested to hear your experience Bad Mike

 

[Petrus]

I turned my adjuster all the way anti clockwise till it stopped. Going clockwise there must have been around 1 1/2 to 2 turns before I could feel resistance.

Taking up that initial ´slack´ is not mentioned in the manual but it is important for correct adjusting. Mine is the same 1,5/2 turns before engaging the spring adjuster.

I had no issues with the setting two up with luggage on the rack, which is stiffish but still ok without luggage but thus one up way too stiff.
Checked it and upon backing it to zero found it was maxed out to 26
Now have it 20 out so for about 180 kg. It is on the lightish side for two up when adding helmets and a small backpack but it is considering the stiffish spring and using it relatively sedately.

 

[skidward]

 

[Petrus]

in my electronic manual it says

Rotate hexagon head counterclockwise as
far as it will go, then 24 rotations clockwise. (Two-up mode with vehicle load
approx. 200 kg).

It states the same 2 revs per 10 kg but starts with 6 turns being 110 kg from 85 kg at zero.
Then 14 up from that, thus 20, makes indeed 180 and the 24 turns making 200 g.
I will also check the two hardcopies; one international, one spanish.
Looks like the difference is in the first 6 to 12 turns.

 

[Petrus]

The Spanish manual for mine is the same as English electronic.
24 out = 200 kg. and 10 kg / 2 revs. making 20 out 180 kg.





The differences are imo the different curb weights of the various models. Mine being the R18 (base) means the lowest curb weight so the least pre-load / lightest spring.

 

[Kingsize]

Many of the early reviews and many of the first customers have complained about the R18 having a very harsh ride and easily scraping the pegs. This is not indicative of a design flaw on the R18, but a procedural miss by BMW to properly document the unpacking and setup procedures for the customer. During shipping, the rear shock preload is placed in "Shipping" position. That means the adjustment of the rear shock is turned anti-clockwise until it hits the stop. In this position you are basically sitting on the rubber bump-stop on the shock with little to no spring action. During shipping it keeps the bike from bouncing around. The manual mentions setting the preload, but it appears that none of the dealers have been doing that. I have created a chart that gives a breakdown of preload from minimum adjustment (0 Turns) to Max Adjustment (26 Turns).

The process is very easy: With a 13mm 6-Point socket, turn the adjuster anti-clockwise until it stops. Slowly rotate the adjuster clockwise until you feel it engage the spring perch (you will feel slight resistance). This is position "0" Continue turning clockwise until you reach the desired preload based on the chart I created.

I hope this helps everyone out.

Thank you! Mine was this way, and is now corrected for my weight. Helped me out alot. Mine even still had the plastic over all the brake calipers, which is now peeled off. Lol