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Clutch adjustment?

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BigJimSlim

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Hit starlord on the dm with this, but figured maybe someone has some knowledge to spill while I await his response.

Had the bike in for the reverse call. Figured I’d let them do the annual service since they’d have it anyway. Well, they installed the new brake and clutch levers as part of the recall perk and messed with the friction point of the clutch. I can dump it in first and it won’t stall. Feels like I’m riding a 50cc bike, as the friction point is all the way at the total open release end of the lever now. Just revs out with barely any forward motion at like 4,500-5000 rpms.

Does anyone know how to adjust the friction point? Never fiddled with hydraulic clutches, so no real idea here. Any help is tremendously appreciated.
 
I would suspect they have installed the clutch lever in such a way it is pressurising the clutch fluid even when lever is fully released.

I''d take it off and check that the bit on the lever that bears against the "reservoir plunger" is seated correctly or not put in wrong way around.... so maybe bit 5 in this photo...

s-l1600.webp

If the problem is that.... I'd check the brake lever as well.... if also done wrong the front brake might grab as it heats up..... as fluid could potentionally not expand back into the brake reseroir.

Warning.... I don't know much.... but.... if it looked ok, I'd wonder if the new levers came with different length pins (so maybe a bit shorter) but they'd reinstalled the old ones.
 
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Check that the RSD levers aren't mounted upside down; the BMW logo should be on top and in sight at the adjustment knob. Also, have you noticed any difference on the Front Brake Lever or perceptible pressure?

1735427059926.png
 
Noelpolar said:
I would suspect they have installed the clutch lever in such a way it is pressurising the clutch fluid even when lever is fully released.

I''d take it off and check that the bit on the lever that bears against the "reservoir plunger" is seated correctly or not put in wrong way around.... so maybe bit 5 in this photo...

View attachment 16825

If the problem is that.... I'd check the brake lever as well.... if also done wrong the front brake might grab as it heats up..... as fluid could potentionally not expand back into the brake reseroir.

Warning.... I don't know much.... but.... if it looked ok, I'd wonder if the new levers came with different length pins (so maybe a bit shorter) but they'd reinstalled the old ones.
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Thanks for the response. Looks like bit 5 is a spring which sits against the aluminum thing that holds the pushrod.

I took the lever off the bike to get an idea of how it was put together. Now what I’m not sure of is whether the pushrod is doing what it’s supposed to do. There’s an adjustment screw, but I can barely get it to do anything before it stops moving. The shop will do pick up/drop off, so I’m probably best just having them scoop up the bike and make it right.
 
It would be great if they could make the adjustment while on site? I'm curious as to what the root cause is ...

Were the levers installed with the BMW logo on top?
 
Star-Lord said:
It would be great if they could make the adjustment while on site? I'm curious as to what the root cause is ...

Were the levers installed with the BMW logo on top?
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Levers are BMW side up. I wonder if it’s possible to mix up the push rods between clutch and brake? Not sure if they took both off at once or what.
 
Attached is the Installation Instructions document; it's fairly straightforward, I swapped the levers on the R18 First Edition project bike within a 30 min. window without any issues (take care not to lose the little spring). I haven't swapped the levers on my R18 B yet though... I'm still wrestling with the mixed chrome & black look on the First Editions - as they come stock pretty chromed out..

1735470183157.png
 

Attachments

Star-Lord said:
Attached is the Installation Instructions document; it's fairly straightforward, I swapped the levers on the R18 First Edition project bike within a 30 min. window without any issues (take care not to lose the little spring). I haven't swapped the levers on my R18 B yet though... I'm still wrestling with the mixed chrome & black look on the First Editions - as they come stock pretty chromed out..

View attachment 16832
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This is super helpful and I think I might be on to understanding the issue.

If you could, could you take a look at your B. On the underside of both the clutch and brake levers, is there a small bolt (maybe painted orange) available to access on the pushrod mount piece?

What I’m getting at is that I think the dealer may have installed these bits upside down on mine, thus also swapping sides and that is resulting in the issue, as I assume each side’s pushrod was adjusted properly out of the factory, and I’ve got no issue til they tinkered with the levers.

I so appreciate your help!
 
Resolved. As I made my way through the install instructions for the RSD levers, I realized the expert dealer tech had installed the pushrod brackets upside down. Which also means that they switched the left and right brackets, so whatever pushrod adjustments were made at the factory were now flipped to the wrong side.

Took the levers off, corrected the reversed pushrod issue, bike actually has a friction zone again.

Now, however, I’m noticing some chatter from the clutch plates. Rode the hampered bike yesterday for maybe 40 total miles (which turns out I was riding the clutch the whole time because of the pushrod issue). Hoping that didn’t mess anything up. Also, I was running the bike in the garage, so maybe it sounds like this all the time, but it’s always running outside so I wouldn’t notice. Also, it’s cold. So… hoping it’s a non issue.

Gotta wait til the next decent Michigan weather day to give it another go.
 
BigJimSlim said:
Resolved. As I made my way through the install instructions for the RSD levers, I realized the expert dealer tech had installed the pushrod brackets upside down. Which also means that they switched the left and right brackets, so whatever pushrod adjustments were made at the factory were now flipped to the wrong side.

Took the levers off, corrected the reversed pushrod issue, bike actually has a friction zone again.

Now, however, I’m noticing some chatter from the clutch plates. Rode the hampered bike yesterday for maybe 40 total miles (which turns out I was riding the clutch the whole time because of the pushrod issue). Hoping that didn’t mess anything up. Also, I was running the bike in the garage, so maybe it sounds like this all the time, but it’s always running outside so I wouldn’t notice. Also, it’s cold. So… hoping it’s a non issue.

Gotta wait til the next decent Michigan weather day to give it another go.
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When I upgraded the Levers on my First Edition, I did one Lever at a time; I didn't even think of a possible difference between the Brake & Clutch - good job (Smart)

Both of my boys attend Michigan State... Go GREEN...
 
Star-Lord said:
When I upgraded the Levers on my First Edition, I did one Lever at a time; I didn't even think of a possible difference between the Brake & Clutch - good job (Smart)

Both of my boys attend Michigan State... Go GREEN...
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yeah, they’re the same parts, but I noticed that the pushrod adjustment pins were set differently at each side. Then noticed that the bolt with the orange paint that locks the adjustment pin was facing up, not down. The instructions you provided (thank you!!) helped sus that out.

My theory now is that A) they did the whole job one side at a time and then realized they had installed the levers upside down. From there, they swapped the levers over to the “correct sides” with the pushrod assemblies still attached and called it good. Or B) they did both sides at once and fuffed it with what part went where and which side was up.

Either way, ignorant and super rookie kind of mistake. Really diminishes any confidence in additional work. Hopefully the full reverse remedy is available soon and I can be clear of dealer work from then on.

State ain’t so bad. It’s no U of M, but ya know… 😎
 
BigJimSlim said:
yeah, they’re the same parts, but I noticed that the pushrod adjustment pins were set differently at each side. Then noticed that the bolt with the orange paint that locks the adjustment pin was facing up, not down. The instructions you provided (thank you!!) helped sus that out.

My theory now is that A) they did the whole job one side at a time and then realized they had installed the levers upside down. From there, they swapped the levers over to the “correct sides” with the pushrod assemblies still attached and called it good. Or B) they did both sides at once and fuffed it with what part went where and which side was up.

Either way, ignorant and super rookie kind of mistake. Really diminishes any confidence in additional work. Hopefully the full reverse remedy is available soon and I can be clear of dealer work from then on.

State ain’t so bad. It’s no U of M, but ya know… 😎
Click to expand...
HAH ... I work for the NYPD, we couldn't afford U of M..
 
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