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Barnyard/Shade Tree Valve Job

  • <i class="fa--xf fal fa-check "><svg xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg" role="img" aria-hidden="true" ><use href="/data/local/icons/light.svg?v=1789222567#check"></use></svg></i> Discussion starter Discussion starter Ulrich
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.. oh one more thing .. a bit too big of a gap will not hurt anything .. it will be just a bit louder .. too tight is bad! because the valves may not seat properly and that can damage things ... err on the side of loose :)
 
I just bumped the rear wheel(back n forth) till the TDC marks were centered in the window. I found it easier then turning the wheel. In 6th gear that is.
 
Ulrich said:
I will leave the forum open on the laptop if you get stuck somewhere ... just go about it easy and you will be done in no time ... oh and when you turn the rear wheel try not to turn it against the driving direction ... it is not super bad .. but it is easier on the timing chain tensioners that way :)
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10-4 on the rear wheel direction of travel... I just buttoned everything back up; I ran to the auto parts shop to get a 13 mm spark plug socket, but it still isn't deep enough - I may just purchase the BMW tool part number and revisit on another day.
 
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I didn't have one either .. I just used a regular slim 14 mm deep socket that I had in a set. Well you are doing the right thing ... don't rush it a couple miles back or forth matters not ... screwing up does! :)

Edit: Actually I am full of $hit ... 14mm or 9/16" !!!!
 
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Ulrich said:
I will leave the forum open on the laptop if you get stuck somewhere ... just go about it easy and you will be done in no time ... oh and when you turn the rear wheel try not to turn it against the driving direction ... it is not super bad .. but it is easier on the timing chain tensioners that way :)
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I wonder what the use of the Reverse Gear plays on the Timing Chain and Tensioner; if any, since the Transmission is in Neutral?
 
Ulrich said:
I didn't have one either .. I just used a regular slim 14 mm deep socket that I had in a set. Well you are doing the right thing ... don't rush it a couple miles back or forth matters not ... screwing up does! :)

Edit: Actually I am full of $hit ... 14mm or 9/16" !!!!
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I ordered the spark-plug socket from Max BMW; he recommended the following P/N:
834 00 495 560
------------|------------|---------------------

1/83300495560 |
SOCKET WRENCH INSERT
| $33.00|

Searching other sites, it looks like it's a 14 mm socket; I figured I'd go with the BMW recommended tool vs buying a standard 14 mm socket and find out that it doesn't fit correctly, especially after taking everything apart again..
 
Scott Semone said:
I wonder what the use of the Reverse Gear plays on the Timing Chain and Tensioner; if any, since the Transmission is in Neutral?
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I think nothing really ... in order to use the reverse you have to have the engine in neutral and running ... the reverse is actually electric ... from what I have been told (can't verify this myself) it uses the starter motor for power. SO IMO there is no connection between the timing chain/tensioner and the reverse lever ... I think the lever just simply locks in neutral and maybe shifts in a gear that let's the starter be used a power unit. won't know for sure until I have to open one .. and I hope that will be a veeeeery long time
 
I agree, the electric motor must use a gear in the transmission to drive the shaft, which in turn drives the rear wheel in the reverse direction. Hindsight is 20/20.. makes sense
 
On the subject of tools (and stating the wrong size .. still really sorry about that) ... I have been using a standard deep socket 14mm ... but I thought I buy the appropriate one ... found this on Amazon LINK TO TOOL it came today ... that thing is the bomb for barely $8!!!! fits, super slim and it has these spring clips in it that really hold the plug. A reasonable alternative for sure IMO !!!!
 
Is there a benefit to having the feeler gauge on both valves at the same time vs doing them individually?
 

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RWF said:
Is there a benefit to having the feeler gauge on both valves at the same time vs doing them individually?
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I have been told that it would be more accurate if both valves are measured at the same time to avoid play throwing off the reading ... this said it will try it next time (another 1000 miles) with 2 separate feeler gauges using one makes it a bit more difficult to see which one has which play.
 
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Part deux! ... 10 000 miles and this time a bit less 'po-boy' style. 😁

IMG_20230923_121123835_HDR.webp

I meanwhile bought and bolted to the floor a wheel chock .. which makes things so much easier

IMG_20230923_121045992_HDR.webp

And with these damn servos gone it is so easy to jack up the rear wheel with a scissor jack.
... and because this is now my second rodeo with this bike, I know where to put the catch pans so I won't make a mess again
Anyway ... both sides stripped down

IMG_20230923_123837174_HDR.webp

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And I refined getting to the right spot a little easier:
1) Put the bike in 6th gear
2) Get behind the bike so you still glance at the heads and rotate the wheel (in driving rotation)
until you see the intake valve opening and closing, After it closes rotate the wheel about 1/3rd
rotation
3) grab a big wrench and put it on the out-drive shaft nut at the transmission
4) Keep an eye on the removed crank positioning sensor's hole and slowly turn the nut (upward) until you see the
locating notches (TDC). (see a picture in a previous post)
5) Intake and exhaust valves should now be loose and ready to be checked/adjusted.
6) Repeat procedure for the other side cylinder.

Done! It didn't really take that long this time and it really took some very minor adjustments for maybe half of the valves
the rest was good .. cleaned everything up real nice and put it back together ... presto!

Then I went ahead and celebrated Uschi's milestone with a nice bottle of Irish spirits and felt pretty good about myself :cool:
I hope this helps a fellow rider out and helps kill some of these BMW corporate shenanigans and dealer VooDoo !
 
Ulrich said:
Thanks for that info ... I only have a ground out SEA wrench that I use ... so I didn't know the actual size !
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I originally used a 1-7/16" wrench, which I taped in order to make up the difference on the hex final drive. Got the caliper out and measured the above mentioned hex nut, and ordered a 46 mm wrench from Amazon.
 
I just reached 12K miles and thinking of checking & adjusting the valves if out of tolerance; this aligns with the recommended 6K interval valve PM, anyone else sticking to the 6K mark...?
 
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