R 18 Bagger To K 1600 B

Berardi3

Active member
Has anyone thought about moving to a K 1600 B coming from a R 18 Bagger ? thinking about trading again any feedback would be appreciated .
 
I sold my 21 R18 TC for a 22 K1600 GTL. The TC is a great bike and I would’ve liked to have kept it. I’ll miss the ACC, but to be honest I really didn’t use it that much. Unfortunately I can only have one bike, and the GTL fits my needs for that. Good luck with your decision.
 
Has anyone thought about moving to a K 1600 B coming from a R 18 Bagger ? thinking about trading again any feedback would be appreciated .
The R and K are totally different engine types; however the difference between the two B models are for the most part pretty similar in what they offer to a rider in terms of functionality.

I would completely understand a move from your B model towards a GS Adventure; assuming that more off road rides were on the horizon. That said, the move from an R18 B to a K1600 B seems like a decision that is made earlier in the initial purchase decision; you're either a K bike guy or an R bike guy (or gal).

For me, I love the heritage look, combined with the high tech navigation and music commingled amongst the analog gauges throughout the fairing's dash. I enjoy the storage space; however, the R18 side case capacity seems considerably less when compared to my old K75 S and my GS Adventure storage. That said, the integrated look outweighs the lack of capacity in my eyes.

The heritage line surely strikes a cord amongst the HD & Indian crowd; yet, distinctly sets it self apart from the default choice.

In most cases, these types of moves will cost you more money; what is the one Bagger going to provide that the other doesn't, and put a dollar amount to that attribute and see if it makes sense to trade at all.
 
2 different bikes, both style and ride. I have had 3 kbikes, 2-GT’s and a B. Be sure to take the B on the highway and get up to 75-80ish. The tail will wag and give to a unstable feeling. The R18B is rock solid at speed.
 
2 different bikes, both style and ride. I have had 3 kbikes, 2-GT’s and a B. Be sure to take the B on the highway and get up to 75-80ish. The tail will wag and give to a unstable feeling. The R18B is rock solid at speed.
This thread prompted me to take a closer look at the K1600 B; which, was a bike that I was looking at prior to seeing the R18 B heritage line-up.

I noticed that the K1600 B max speed was listed at 120+ mph, and 111 mph when equipped with the Floorboards. I guess the Floorboards can introduce some instability at higher speeds...??
 
It’s not the floorboards, people have taken parts off, trying to find the issue. It’s in the design itself. The K16 Grand America is worse then the B, and is speed limited to 102-104. The GT and GTL are both solid at any speed, but none are as solid as a R18 B or TC. The Kbikes are quick and adrenaline boosters. I always found myself, riding fast everywhere I went.
 
Good topic, I have lusted over the K1600 since the first release, but never pulled the trigger as I'm a "twin" fan for the most part and the K1600 was not objectively the best tool for the job.

I love my R18 Classic and use it mostly for my regional riding for which it is a "perfect" fit. A recent ride from NC to WA showed it's limitations for long mile days as to petrol capacity, etc.,and those are nicely addressed on the B and TC. BUT, without a longer major service interval (valves specifically) it's the "1, "aw shit" that wipes out a 1000 attaboys".

My local "touring" miles are 3-5 thousand miles if I take a week or two to make a loop through the Ozarks and back through Kentucky or up through New England, etc. My yearly cross country rides average 12-15 thousand miles. I do much of my own servicing on trips, but the R18 is basically a major service every oil change and the extra time and tools needed is just a pain in the ass while far from home. If long mile travel is a realistic use of a new bike, the K1600 would get my $.
 
Good topic, I have lusted over the K1600 since the first release, but never pulled the trigger as I'm a "twin" fan for the most part and the K1600 was not objectively the best tool for the job.

I love my R18 Classic and use it mostly for my regional riding for which it is a "perfect" fit. A recent ride from NC to WA showed it's limitations for long mile days as to petrol capacity, etc.,and those are nicely addressed on the B and TC. BUT, without a longer major service interval (valves specifically) it's the "1, "aw shit" that wipes out a 1000 attaboys".

My local "touring" miles are 3-5 thousand miles if I take a week or two to make a loop through the Ozarks and back through Kentucky or up through New England, etc. My yearly cross country rides average 12-15 thousand miles. I do much of my own servicing on trips, but the R18 is basically a major service every oil change and the extra time and tools needed is just a pain in the ass while far from home. If long mile travel is a realistic use of a new bike, the K1600 would get my $.
Well said... Berardi3 has a lot to chew on..
 
Good topic, I have lusted over the K1600 since the first release, but never pulled the trigger as I'm a "twin" fan for the most part and the K1600 was not objectively the best tool for the job.

I love my R18 Classic and use it mostly for my regional riding for which it is a "perfect" fit. A recent ride from NC to WA showed it's limitations for long mile days as to petrol capacity, etc.,and those are nicely addressed on the B and TC. BUT, without a longer major service interval (valves specifically) it's the "1, "aw shit" that wipes out a 1000 attaboys".

My local "touring" miles are 3-5 thousand miles if I take a week or two to make a loop through the Ozarks and back through Kentucky or up through New England, etc. My yearly cross country rides average 12-15 thousand miles. I do much of my own servicing on trips, but the R18 is basically a major service every oil change and the extra time and tools needed is just a pain in the ass while far from home. If long mile travel is a realistic use of a new bike, the K1600 would get my $.
The K also is not maintenance friendly
 
I had a K1600B and absolutely loved the look of the bike. The ride and performance was awesome, handling was not as good aa the RT. I could not stand the instability of the rear end even though I new it was not a safety hazard. I went back to an R1250RT and never looked back. I know that isn’t on point with your question because it doesn’t compare the two touring bikes you asked about, however if given the choice between my R18FE and the K1600B i would choice the R18 for sure. Here is a picture, she sure was pretty and I ended up totally hating it.E28D615F-1FB1-4BF3-8D23-BA570172C32D.jpeg
 
I had a K1600B and absolutely loved the look of the bike. The ride and performance was awesome, handling was not as good aa the RT. I could not stand the instability of the rear end even though I new it was not a safety hazard. I went back to an R1250RT and never looked back. I know that isn’t on point with your question because it doesn’t compare the two touring bikes you asked about, however if given the choice between my R18FE and the K1600B i would choice the R18 for sure. Here is a picture, she sure was pretty and I ended up totally hating it.View attachment 8768
Agreed.. a great looking bike
 
The K also is not maintenance friendly
I appreciate that sentiment and it's part of while "I want one, I never pulled the trigger". But, the subjective preferences as to what is "friendly" and "tire eater every 5-6 thousand miles", etc., really depends on what I tried to address in my answer. It reflects only on my use/needs for a touring bike and specifically related to the intended miles covered away from home hence my comments comparing my regional v. cross country rides. The first thing that comes to mind is how many places I can easily find to mount a tire especially when I can quickly pull a wheel like on the K1600 v. schedule a major service on the R18 at roughly the same interval. Anyway, no wrong choices with so many great motorcycles to choose from and someone once said something along the lines of "my favorite motorcycle is the one I'm riding" and I would totally agree with that. I have owned and ridden many other bikes and was keeping my comments to these two options and how they would score for me. 🍻 🍻
 
I appreciate that sentiment and it's part of while "I want one, I never pulled the trigger". But, the subjective preferences as to what is "friendly" and "tire eater every 5-6 thousand miles", etc., really depends on what I tried to address in my answer. It reflects only on my use/needs for a touring bike and specifically related to the intended miles covered away from home hence my comments comparing my regional v. cross country rides. The first thing that comes to mind is how many places I can easily find to mount a tire especially when I can quickly pull a wheel like on the K1600 v. schedule a major service on the R18 at roughly the same interval. Anyway, no wrong choices with so many great motorcycles to choose from and someone once said something along the lines of "my favorite motorcycle is the one I'm riding" and I would totally agree with that. I have owned and ridden many other bikes and was keeping my comments to these two options and how they would score for me. 🍻 🍻
Having done my own work on a few boxers over the years, I think they are much easier than inline motors for service (especially with a fairing). I can change the oil & do the valve check on my old /5 airhead in 30 minutes. With the additional covers and dual spark plugs it would be a bit more time to do on an R18, but nowhere close to what it would be on a K16. It’s just valve check, air filter & oil every 6K on the R18. Every other oil change you change spark plugs & rear bevel oil. If I’m pessimistic, it’s what 90 minutes every 6K & an extra 30 minutes on the 12K? If you do 18K miles a year, that’s about 5 hours of maintenance a year.
 
Having done my own work on a few boxers over the years, I think they are much easier than inline motors for service (especially with a fairing). I can change the oil & do the valve check on my old /5 airhead in 30 minutes. With the additional covers and dual spark plugs it would be a bit more time to do on an R18, but nowhere close to what it would be on a K16. It’s just valve check, air filter & oil every 6K on the R18. Every other oil change you change spark plugs & rear bevel oil. If I’m pessimistic, it’s what 90 minutes every 6K & an extra 30 minutes on the 12K? If you do 18K miles a year, that’s about 5 hours of maintenance a year.
No disagreement and I have done the same. Your last sentence is the key to my comment and that is when and where you do the major service work and if a dealer is relied on to do "all the above". Busy time of year for shops and when one is far from their "home court advantage" of their own garage and/or friendly dealer that will fit one in is a major factor. On the K bike you can see18K before digging in for a major service and you can pop it up on the stand and pull a wheel to facilitate a tire change anywhere that can spare the few minutes needed and without tying up a stall. On either if carrying an oil change kit one can source a drain pan and oil and do the change/recycle in the auto parts jobber parking lot if needed (except Alaska, you have to take your old oil to a recycle center). I don't want to carry the extra tools nor take the time to adjust valves on the road so with the R18 it's multiple appointments at a dealer that would need to be made and it's likely appointments would have to be made in advance to ensure a slot and that limits flexibility in travel especially the more times one has to factor it in. I am surprised that the simple qualifier I used as to regional v. cross country rides is such a difficult concept as to the actual logistics involved with those two very different uses of a "touring" model and with the two models asked to be considered. I'm not trying to win nor lose the "choice war" as it only pertains to the two models in question and as much as I like both I would be back on another GS/A or RT because of their competencies as long mile tours and their "weaknesses" are minimal/easier for me to work around.

Cheers
 
No disagreement and I have done the same. Your last sentence is the key to my comment and that is when and where you do the major service work and if a dealer is relied on to do "all the above". Busy time of year for shops and when one is far from their "home court advantage" of their own garage and/or friendly dealer that will fit one in is a major factor. On the K bike you can see18K before digging in for a major service and you can pop it up on the stand and pull a wheel to facilitate a tire change anywhere that can spare the few minutes needed and without tying up a stall. On either if carrying an oil change kit one can source a drain pan and oil and do the change/recycle in the auto parts jobber parking lot if needed (except Alaska, you have to take your old oil to a recycle center). I don't want to carry the extra tools nor take the time to adjust valves on the road so with the R18 it's multiple appointments at a dealer that would need to be made and it's likely appointments would have to be made in advance to ensure a slot and that limits flexibility in travel especially the more times one has to factor it in. I am surprised that the simple qualifier I used as to regional v. cross country rides is such a difficult concept as to the actual logistics involved with those two very different uses of a "touring" model and with the two models asked to be considered. I'm not trying to win nor lose the "choice war" as it only pertains to the two models in question and as much as I like both I would be back on another GS/A or RT because of their competencies as long mile tours and their "weaknesses" are minimal/easier for me to work around.

Cheers
That’s fair. I’d wrongly assumed the concern was the effort to do it yourself. If you have to schedule service while out on the road, I could see that being more challenging if you are doing so many miles a year. Longer service intervals would be an advantage in that case.

My hunch is BMW is being very conservative on the valve checks on the R18 as it is a new engine for them. I’ve never had to tweak valve clearance on my boxer bikes past 12K miles. They stayed in spec after then. I wouldn’t be surprised if the R18 behaved similarly, so it may be possible to extend the valve checks beyond the 6K.
 
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