DK Designs Crash Bar Installation

[HerrFarber]

The DK Design guys have been prompt to answer my inquiries on this order that was placed on March 7. It spent about 10 days in Hong Kong customs and finally arrived today 3/23/. So if you order be patient. It was very well packaged and arrived in perfect condition. The instructions are a little vague but easy enough to figure out. Hear a pictures on what you would receive in the package.

 

[Gilles]

Not for me, but thanks for the pictures

 

[toolmaker51]

I have been looking at those too but didn't realize they came from China.

 

[HerrFarber]

They are made in Taiwan, not in China. They passed through Hong Kong en route to USA.

 

[TodkaVonic]

Super cool

 

[estoma]

The DK Design guys have been prompt to answer my inquiries on this order that was placed on March 7. It spent about 10 days in Hong Kong customs and finally arrived today 3/23/. So if you order be patient. It was very well packaged and arrived in perfect condition. The instructions are a little vague but easy enough to figure out. Hear a pictures on what you would receive in the package.

The DK Design Bars look the business, but I would prefer a single-piece engine guard for structural integrity - like that offered by BMW. That top bracket seems pretty thin and the bottom ones quite long - the smaller OD bottom tubular appears to have been added to assist in keeping the installation aligned. It would have had to be straight (sans offsets) to add proper compression/bending strength: all form and little function. One might need to swap out those machine bolts for fillister-head equivalents if form is indeed the overriding objective and in keeping with the R18 persona.

 

[HerrFarber]

The DK Design Bars look the business, but I would prefer a single-piece engine guard for structural integrity - like that offered by BMW. That top bracket seems pretty thin and the bottom ones quite long - the smaller OD bottom tubular appears to have been added to assist in keeping the installation aligned. It would have had to be straight (sans offsets) to add proper compression/bending strength: all form and little function. You might need to swap out those machine bolts for fillister-head equivalents if form is indeed the overriding objective and in keeping with the R18 persona.

estoma,
Thanks for the reply. I will post more photos and information as I do the installation.
I agree that a single-piece construction would be stronger but the BMW Engine Protection Bar is also a 2 piece design as can be seen in this document:

https://manuals.bmw-motorrad.com/ma...1ED57_Motorschutzbueg_einb_0L11_01_202007.pdf.

I can't compare and contrast the two because the BMW version does not exist and at this point I don't believe you can even order it. I can say by looking at the document above and what I have in my hands is that the BMW design is attached at the top from the right bar with a welded flange and one bolt. The left bar slides into the right bar and is connected with a through hole bolt. The DK Design top bracket also attaches to the same point with one bolt but is re-enforced steel measuring at least 6mm thick. This is item D in the photo I provided. The bars have threaded inserts for the attachment M12x40 SS bolts (5). The tube size is another factor as I don't know the size of the BMW bar but DK uses 38mm SS tube that is 3mm thick. The bottom attachment brackets are 8mm thick steel and attach to the frame at two points. The first is the engine forward mount with a large machined SS spacer (C) and a M12x110 SS bolt (6). The second is the same point the BMW bar uses with a M10x65 SS bolt (3) and a steel spacer (B) to keep them aligned. The lower attachment point for the BMW bar is a single point on a welded flange with a M10 bolt. The center bar on the lower section (G) looks to me to additional rigidity and would transfer energy to the opposite side on a crash. This is something lacking in the BMW design. In my opinion the DK Design looks to be much stronger than the BMW design and it is available now.

I don't have anything to do with DK Design so I'm not trying to sell their product rather just evaluating what I purchased for my bike and offering my opinion.

 

[estoma]

estoma,
Thanks for the reply. I will post more photos and information as I do the installation.
I agree that a single-piece construction would be stronger but the BMW Engine Protection Bar is also a 2 piece design as can be seen in this document:

https://manuals.bmw-motorrad.com/ma...1ED57_Motorschutzbueg_einb_0L11_01_202007.pdf.

I can't compare and contrast the two because the BMW version does not exist and at this point I don't believe you can even order it. I can say by looking at the document above and what I have in my hands is that the BMW design is attached at the top from the right bar with a welded flange and one bolt. The left bar slides into the right bar and is connected with a through hole bolt. The DK Design top bracket also attaches to the same point with one bolt but is re-enforced steel measuring at least 6mm thick. This is item D in the photo I provided. The bars have threaded inserts for the attachment M12x40 SS bolts (5). The tube size is another factor as I don't know the size of the BMW bar but DK uses 38mm SS tube that is 3mm thick. The bottom attachment brackets are 8mm thick steel and attach to the frame at two points. The first is the engine forward mount with a large machined SS spacer (C) and a M12x110 SS bolt (6). The second is the same point the BMW bar uses with a M10x65 SS bolt (3) and a steel spacer (B) to keep them aligned. The lower attachment point for the BMW bar is a single point on a welded flange with a M10 bolt. The center bar on the lower section (G) looks to me to additional rigidity and would transfer energy to the opposite side on a crash. This is something lacking in the BMW design. In my opinion the DK Design looks to be much stronger than the BMW design and it is available now.

I don't have anything to do with DK Design so I'm not trying to sell their product rather just evaluating what I purchased for my bike and offering my opinion.

HerrFarber,

Thanks for the prompt feedback. I can order the BMW engine guard (crash-bar in South Africa) now, Part Number 77 14 9 446 054. But I am not sure when I will receive that.

Thanks as well for pointing out its two-piece construction - I did not notice that previously. That joint, one part sliding into the other, is a familiar approach and still renders a bar strong enough to resemble a single-piece construction while facilitating convenient installation. And the plate mounting at the top is welded axially to the bar (better in tension/compression), not bolted transversely to it (worse for bending). The bottom brackets are short enough not to necessitate further bracing. The BMW bar features four bolted connections total, one locking the bars sliding together at the top. The bar is definitely of a lesser diameter, maximum 32 mm, I would guess.

One of the most appealing aspects of the DK Design® bar is its swept-back stance, which unfortunately brings it pretty close to the lefthand pot as installed. And the left side is normally the most likely side to go down in a stationary mishap. I am still deciding, but I am obviously leaning towards the OEM article - I might get the leg rests for that too. Patience is often a virtue.

(photo courtesy DK Design®)

Horses for courses. I am confident that you will be happy with your choice and that it fits in best with your intended use for it. Good luck with the installation. Use lots of masking/painters tape - prevention always beats forced repairs.

 

[HerrFarber]

Installation complete and I happy with it.
First place a jack under the front of the engine to support it because you will need to remove the forward engine mounting bolts. I didn't detect any movement when they were removed but it is good practice. Install the components loosely until you have everything basically in place.

Remove the forward engine mount bolts and assemble the lower brackets and spacers. Install the lower brackets to the frame. Attach the crash bar tubes to the bottom & top brackets. I found using a universal adapter was helpful on the top because there is not a lot of room to work. Attach the cross support. Start tighten all the bolts. The last bolt is the one the very top bracket with a spacer for the brake lines. There is also a spacer and bolt for the horn bracket.

 

[estoma]

Installation complete and I happy with it.
First place a jack under the front of the engine to support it because you will need to remove the forward engine mounting bolts. I didn't detect any movement when they were removed but it is good practice. Install the components loosely until you have everything basically in place.

Remove the forward engine mount bolts and assemble the lower brackets and spacers. Install the lower brackets to the frame. Attach the crash bar tubes to the bottom & top brackets. I found using a universal adapter was helpful on the top because there is not a lot of room to work. Attach the cross support. Start tighten all the bolts. The last bolt is the one the very top bracket with a spacer for the brake lines. There is also a spacer and bolt for the horn bracket.

That looks great, but you need to replace those industrial bolts with proper fillister-head Torx equivalents now, preferably Beemer's, since they feature an integral washer. It is more expensive, but that is the price we pay for riding bikes like the R18 and the Chief Vintage in the background. I own a 2014 willow-green/cream one myself, with colour-coded hard-bags and trunk. I have spent a small fortune on it already. And it is currently in work again (-: Just no end to it, is there? Especially if you hang around forums (-:

Is that bell not supposed to be mounted lower (like as low as possible)? And why are there still decals on the brake rotors? Talking about industrial components; the cable sleeving used by BMW is just terrible. I bought some of this harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GMCGZX/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" as well as this high-heat harness tape https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074YCG21Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for where I cannot apply the harness. I replace unsightly applications as I work on the herd.

 

[TodkaVonic]

Looks terrific HerrFarber. I think the look suits the classic, with it's fairing and additional lighting, better than the standard first edition. Just my opinion. Thanks for the photos.

 

[HerrFarber]

That looks great, but you need to replace those industrial bolts with proper fillister-head Torx equivalents now, preferably Beemer's, since they feature an integral washer. It is more expensive, but that is the price we pay for riding bikes like the R18 and the Chief Vintage in the background. I own a 2014 willow-green/cream one myself, with colour-coded hard-bags and trunk. I have spent a small fortune on it already. And it is currently in work again (-: Just no end to it, is there? Especially if you hang around forums (-:

Is that bell not supposed to be mounted lower (like as low as possible)? And why are there still decals on the brake rotors? Talking about industrial components; the cable sleeving used by BMW is just terrible. I bought some of this harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074GMCGZX/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" as well as this high-heat harness tape https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074YCG21Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for where I cannot apply the harness. I replace unsightly applications as I work on the herd.

I agree with you that the fillister-head Torx from BMW would be the best option but I'm not sure I want to pay the price. The M12x110 would probably not be available from BMW so there would still be an oddball in the mix.

 

[HerrFarber]

Looks terrific HerrFarber. I think the look suits the classic, with it's fairing and additional lighting, better than the standard first edition. Just my opinion. Thanks for the photos.

Thank you TodkaVonic. I like the way if flows with the contours of the bike. I'd like to put on the DK front fender as you did, it looks awesome!. Like estoma said "just no end to it, is there?"

 

[theMucker]

I agree with you that the fillister-head Torx from BMW would be the best option but I'm not sure I want to pay the price. The M12x110 would probably not be available from BMW so there would still be an oddball in the mix.

If you don't NEED it to be Torx, how about this?

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

You might want to add washers, to spread the load.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[dfinkelsteinmd]

Thanks for the photos and the step-by-step, HerrFarber. I like the look but am hoping to avoid needing the crash bars by rigging a small bell such as you did. By the way, I also wanted to thank you for the tip on the rear fender rack from Motherwell. It fits great and complements my "solo" riding style.

 

[estoma]

I agree with you that the fillister-head Torx from BMW would be the best option but I'm not sure I want to pay the price. The M12x110 would probably not be available from BMW so there would still be an oddball in the mix.

That sure is a weird size for something on a motorbike. BMW did that size at a point, but for motorcars; http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/07119920020/.

If you don't NEED it to be Torx, how about this?

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

You might want to add washers, to spread the load.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

HerrFarber needs them fully threaded methinks. That leaves only these Allen-socket Button-heads and they are 10 mm short; https://www.tcfixings.co.uk/product/m12-x-100mm-a2-stainless-socket-button-head-screws-iso-7380/7188.

 

[HerrFarber]

Thanks for the photos and the step-by-step, HerrFarber. I like the look but am hoping to avoid needing the crash bars by rigging a small bell such as you did. By the way, I also wanted to thank you for the tip on the rear fender rack from Motherwell. It fits great and complements my "solo" riding style.

Glad you like it dfinkelsteinmd!

 

[dfinkelsteinmd]

Here’s another ride I enjoy:

 

[estoma]

Here’s another ride I enjoy:View attachment 1045

Fantastic! I have a 2015 1199 R for which I got a STM® dry clutch, MAC® thick-core double radiator, full Akrapovič® exhaust, Motoholders® rear subframe and lots of carbon, amongst others. I also fitted adjustable OEM rear-sets and Gilles® clip-ons to stretch the rider triangle a tad. I am 62 and can only ride so long with my wrists in my armpits and my heels up my 4ss (-: The R is already light, and I have managed to cut another almost 10 kg off to roughly 159 kg dry now.

 

[HerrFarber]

I found 38mm mounts from Amazon for light attachment to the crash bars that look are good quality and cheap at $13, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09UBGL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think the ones I will use are from Super Bright LED's, a bit more expensive but I have used them before.

Kuryakyn Stainless Steel P-Clamp for Bar Mounts - Auxiliary Lights - 1-3/8

1-3/8

www.superbrightleds.com