TC Auxiliary Light & Wind Fairing Winglet DIY Model-B Installation

Scott Semone

Scott Semone

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The attached PDF shows the different steps that I took to install the Auxiliary Lights & Winglets, typically found on the R 18 Transcontinental onto the Model-B Bagger. The total cost of the project is between $1,200 to $1,300 depending on whether or not you need to purchased additional tools.

I used the existing Accessory Outlet in order to power the Auxiliary Lights vs using the pre-wired Auxiliary Light wiring harness located underneath the front left side (clutch side) fairing; however I did cut and harvest the plug in order to complete the circuit from the existing Accessory 12V wiring (Remember: Brown = Negative Ground). The Accessory Outlet is switched ON via the ignition / Power Button, and remains powered in the ON state for approximately 3 min. after turning OFF the bike. I installed a 16mm diameter latched LED push-button switch within the existing 12V power outlet; this avoids having to cut or alter the OEM dash-instrument panel.

Any questions - Please don't hesitate to reach out. Scott

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Attachments

  • R 18 Model B Installation of TC Auxiliary Lights and Winglets.pdf
    8.1 MB · Views: 196
Thank you for making this. I guess you can't purchase the TC left handlebar switch and get the aux light w/o some sort of factory retrofit?

Given there is cutting, splicing and modifying, I think this effort is going to be too much work for me.
 
The TC switch tree is $600, I went with the $8.95 push-latch LED switch; plus, there isn't a guarantee that the TC switch would work on the Model-B without generating an Error code or requiring some sort of software flash in order for it to work. I kept it simple & practical.

All cutting and cable splicing can be returned back to factory if needed; my approach is to do correct so one doesn't have to undo it... :)
 
Scott Semone said:
The TC switch tree is $600, I went with the $8.95 push-latch LED switch; plus, there isn't a guarantee that the TC switch would work on the Model-B without generating an Error code or requiring some sort of software flash in order for it to work. I kept it simple & practical.

All cutting and cable splicing can be returned back to factory if needed; my approach is to do correct so one doesn't have to undo it... :)
Click to expand...

I just don't touch anything electrical. Ive fried everything I've ever touched. If it isn't already in a connector, I'm going to screw it up. My curse I guess.
 
Gee, thats quite some work you've done there - great job, looks very clean.
Just a query on the clear winglets - by how much were they fouling the standard indicators ? Too much to trim the perspex with a dremel ?
Thanks !
 
adamchandler said:
I just don't touch anything electrical. Ive fried everything I've ever touched. If it isn't already in a connector, I'm going to screw it up. My curse I guess.
Click to expand...
It didn't seem like the TC rear top case was plug-&-play on your Model-B; if the dealership couldn't figure it out, I assume it's a software code or flash which I'm not privy too. I didn't want to risk the $600 cost for the OEM switch.

I'm located in Northern NJ, it's about a 2 hr. to 3 hrs. job if you need help with the wiring; as always - I'm always willing to help out.
 
JDoc12 said:
Gee, thats quite some work you've done there - great job, looks very clean.
Just a query on the clear winglets - by how much were they fouling the standard indicators ? Too much to trim the perspex with a dremel ?
Thanks !
Click to expand...
The directional lens was pretty worn from rubbing-vibration; the clear wind deflector didn't show any damage.

You could maybe try installing the Winglets and replace the stock directionals with the small Mini-Directionals that are offered (no guarantees that they will be clear of making contact though)?

I had ordered the necessary TC parts for my Model - B a day after I purchased it; I knew what I wanted to do when choosing between the Model-B and the TC.
 
It is just amazing the difference between open and closed position on the winglets.
I recommend everyone purchase an R18TC, then sell the top box if you dont want it. BONUS...you are left with a loaded B.
 
R12C-R18TC said:
It is just amazing the difference between open and closed position on the winglets.
I recommend everyone purchase an R18TC, then sell the top box if you dont want it. BONUS...you are left with a loaded B.
Click to expand...
That is what I should have done... Personally, I did not go for the TC because I do not care for the looks of the auxiliary lights or the top case. I will, however, install the winglets & crashbars.
 
Here's something else I noticed about the TC, having first bought the Classic FE... That seating on that sucker sits a mile higher than the FE. And there seems to be more ground clearance. When I bought the FE, I couldn't drive it up onto my trailer, because the bottom would scrape the transition between the bed of the trailer and the lowered gate. I had to back up the trailer to a street that had a sidewalk and curb, then drop the gate onto the lip of the curb to reduce the angle, so the FE would clear that transition. Didn't have to do that with the TC. It cleared it by a couple of inches without having to find a curb.
 
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adamchandler said:
Thank you for making this. I guess you can't purchase the TC left handlebar switch and get the aux light w/o some sort of factory retrofit?

Given there is cutting, splicing and modifying, I think this effort is going to be too much work for me.
Click to expand...
Reading another forum thread, it sounds like the existing button will work; however, it isn't labeled. Another forum member found a terminated connector located under the gas tank; which, once connected completes the necessary power from the left control tree to turn on the auxiliary lights.

I should have explored the connection possibility, when I had the engine cover removed to replace the air filter. I'm still really happy with my current setup, the glow of the switch when turned on looks good on the dash.
 
Scott Semone said:
The attached PDF shows the different steps that I took to install the Auxiliary Lights & Winglets, typically found on the R 18 Transcontinental onto the Model-B Bagger. The total cost of the project is between $1,200 to $1,300 depending on whether or not you need to purchased additional tools.

I used the existing Accessory Outlet in order to power the Auxiliary Lights vs using the pre-wired Auxiliary Light wiring harness located underneath the front left side (clutch side) fairing; however I did cut and harvest the plug in order to complete the circuit from the existing Accessory 12V wiring (Remember: Brown = Negative Ground). The Accessory Outlet is switched ON via the ignition / Power Button, and remains powered in the ON state for approximately 3 min. after turning OFF the bike. I installed a 16mm diameter latched LED push-button switch within the existing 12V power outlet; this avoids having to cut or alter the OEM dash-instrument panel.

Any questions - Please don't hesitate to reach out. Scott

View attachment 6963
Click to expand...
Hi Scott,

Can you clear up some confusion for me regarding the parts list?

You show the Cart Details parts list on page 9. Is this the complete list of parts needed for the lights and winglets? I’m confused because you show other part numbers not in the parts list. An example right next to the Cart Details is a blue callout showing part number 61111665148 that is not in the cart details. Same with the Adapter Lead LED Let Turn Indicator 61111692240.

One other thing. Left Base 46637108292. Is there a right base?
 
Sorry for the delayed response; I had to review my notes and such.

P/N: 61 11 1 665 148 (Purchased In Person; however, I don't think I used this wiring - it might be worth purchasing and perhaps return if not used) $104.49 NOTE: Which I think I returned
P/N: 61 11 1 692 240 (Purchased Max BMW Invoice 5174144) $44.90 NOTE: This was used, which I cut in half, and used each end in order to connect the Auxiliary Lights; you can probably order two of these if you don't want to cut them and splice them electrically.

See attached pictures:Screenshot_20230908-175430.pngScreenshot_20230908-175336.pngScreenshot_20230908-175558.png
 
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