Keeping Pipes Clean (not a euphemism)

TodkaVonic

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The R18 is far and away the chromiest motorcycle I've owned. The enormous, exposed, and extremely hot headers and cans present us all with baked-on bug carcases after every ride. I just now used P21S polishing soap (https://www.p21s.com/portfolio/polishing-soap/) to remove some very stubborn entomological debris which had been present for a few months and many, many, heating and cooling cycles. Worked like a charm. As spring turns to summer (here in the northern hemisphere at least) it's only going to get buggier. I bet there's a wealth of chrome-cleaning knowledge here, so....spill it. What are your secrets?
 
The R18 is far and away the chromiest motorcycle I've owned. The enormous, exposed, and extremely hot headers and cans present us all with baked-on bug carcases after every ride. I just now used P21S polishing soap (https://www.p21s.com/portfolio/polishing-soap/) to remove some very stubborn entomological debris which had been present for a few months and many, many, heating and cooling cycles. Worked like a charm. As spring turns to summer (here in the northern hemisphere at least) it's only going to get buggier. I bet there's a wealth of chrome-cleaning knowledge here, so....spill it. What are your secrets?
I own, and have owned, several rides with lots of chrome - to which I add even more whenever I can (-:

One thing to always keep in mind is that the 'chrome plating' is very thin and easily damaged. And even though industrial chrome applications (e.g. hard chrome and HVOF) might render extremely tough surfaces, our 'show chrome' layer is simply too thinly applied. A typical 'blue chrome' finish starts with an acid (pickling) bath, neutralizing (passivating) bath, copper plating, several rounds of nickel plating and a final chrome dip. There are also several different chrome-plating techniques, the better ones often less environmentally friendly, and suffice it to say that no one can chrome as the Americans do.

Shining it after a bike wash: A top quality glass cleaner - only on cool surfaces obviously and never in the sun. I prefer Meguiars® Glass. Wipe it on, turn the cloth and clean it off. Repeat.

Blemishes, adhesive and baked-on residue: Autosol® Marine, followed by Autosol® Metal once the spot has been cleaned. Applied with a micro-fibre cloth, turning it all the time.

Bugs and burnt-on crud: Soak it with a good engine cleaner on a rag, tied or held onto the problem spot, for at least ten minutes. Then remove with a soft-wood splinter or your nail and a micro-fibre cloth under flushing water, continuously turning the micro-fibre cloth. Discard the micro-fibre cloth afterwards since all that got removed will be embedded in it. Follow up with Autosol® Marine and Autosol® Metal to deal with any lingering blemish or stain.

Seriously burnt-on sh1t like bike boot bits on an exhaust: Aerosol (preferably Wynn's® or Shield®) carburettor cleaner and/or brake cleaner and an old (pure soft copper) penny. Keep it wetted and work carefully as hard particles loosen up, which could scratch your chrome. Then follow on with Autosol® Marine and Autosol® Metal as above.
 
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Also, add some Autosol® for Aluminium and Autosol® for Stainless Steel while you at it. You will polish your Alu and SS bolts and bits to a chrome-like lustre in no time, by hand. Amazing stuff. Just not on the R18, since most fillister Torx screws are zinc-plated )-: Autosol® also does a product for plastic, but I prefer Meguiars® PlastX for windshields, indicators and other transparent or shiny plastic bits.
 
Added aluminum and stainless. Thx! I've been using Plexus on plastics with great results for years. It's especially helpful with my plexiglass turntable cover and on the Paul Smart windshield.
 
To clean your exhaust pipe from burned in nylon you can use glue removal. Firts a towel to put it on than another towel to get it off use force on the pipe It woks it cleaned my pipe from burning in pants
 
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