DK Designs Front Fender Video

[R2K]

 

[Gerard]

Nice design !
I like it very much.

 

[enzo5000]

I'll be ordering one of those beauties fo' sho!

 

[Gerard]

Seeing the one they ad for the R9T in carbon, they are pretty cheap.

Product Page | DKdesign Accessories

www.dkdesign-global.com

This one seems made out of steel.
The shape is much more protective for the engine front end.
And looks like a WW1 french helmet

 

[TodkaVonic]

Yes. It will be so. Thanks R2K

 

[theMucker]

I'll be ordering one of those beauties fo' sho!

Me too! Even before my R18 had arrived I was wondering how difficult it would be to swap the front fender with a bigger one that protected the engine more and looked more like the old BMWs.
When will the DK Design fender be available and will it come painted and pin striped? The teasers kill me!

 

[enzo5000]

....and you could take it a step farther and add a fender plate (pedestrian slicer).

 

[theMucker]

Is that what they call them in Europe?

 

[enzo5000]

...and my personalized version. Insert your text here! I'd probably put my actual license plate number on it if I got one.

 

[theMucker]

I contacted DK Design through the web site's contact info asking what it will cost, if they'll sell it with white pin stripes and if it fits the First Edition wheel size and they've already gotten back to me.

"Yes, will fit in first edition front wheel size.
1. 450USD + Shipping without White pin stripes.
2. Will be available around beginning of March."

Maybe if they heard back from more of us asking for it, they'll make it with the pin stripes. <[email protected]>
I've already replied and told them that for $500 US (+shipping) I'll give them my credit card info NOW.

 

[enzo5000]

Not a deal breaker for me. The same guy that pinstriped my panels, fork tubes and fender said he'd do the front fender for $50.00.

 

[CanuckVet]

Just emailed them also and asked about providing with pinstripes.

 

[theMucker]

DK Designs got back to me again:

"The Front Fender with White Pin Strips might be around $550+ Shippin.
We are still discussing with the paint shop. Currently is pre-order, or wait until we upload to our site.
For now, we have cylinder cover guards + breast plate in processing, will coming up pretty soon."

I told 'em again to let me know when they want the credit card info.

 

[Dave52]

...and my personalized version. Insert your text here! I'd probably put my actual license plate number on it if I got one.

View attachment 571

DK Designs got back to me again:

"The Front Fender with White Pin Strips might be around $550+ Shippin.
We are still discussing with the paint shop. Currently is pre-order, or wait until we upload to our site.
For now, we have cylinder cover guards + breast plate in processing, will coming up pretty soon."

I told 'em again to let me know when they want the credit card info.

DK Designs got back to me again:

"The Front Fender with White Pin Strips might be around $550+ Shippin.
We are still discussing with the paint shop. Currently is pre-order, or wait until we upload to our site.
For now, we have cylinder cover guards + breast plate in processing, will coming up pretty soon."

I told 'em again to let me know when they want the credit card info.

I also like the idea of a longer front fender but I’m put off with it being made from abs plastic.

 

[theMucker]

I would also prefer a steel front fender, but I suspect that a steel version would be VERY expensive. If there's one thing that I've learned, even before taking possession of the R18, BMW parts are EXPENSIVE.

 

[TodkaVonic]

Who else ordered one?

 

[estoma]

I would also prefer a steel front fender, but I suspect that a steel version would be VERY expensive. If there's one thing that I've learned, even before taking possession of the R18, BMW parts are EXPENSIVE.

That is a pretty large fender for all-ABS construction. The proverbial 'weakest link' is where it is bolted to the front forks. DK Design® knows this and have provided bolt-on bosses. These bosses need to be integral and larger to be worth the bother, though, like that evident on high-quality bolt-on carbon-fibre components - and carbon-fibre adds a fair amount more rigidity than ABS does. I suggest adding SS fender washers, inside and outside, when mounting the fender since the ABS will potentially flop around a bit in the wind, upfront - especially at higher speeds.

It will not be long before Russ Wernimont® and Klock Werks®, amongst others, offer proper steel front fenders for the R18, and most probably with different aesthetic options as well. And they sell for less than $400 typically for Haley Davidson - as premium a brand as BMW is.

I really want to like the DK Design® stuff, but their products seem rushed-to-market and un-engineered. ALL their R18 items feature integrity hiccups IMHO; that includes this fender, their engine guard (commented upon in another post), their skid-plate (sump-guard) and front axle sliders.

If you hit something solid with that skid-plate, like a protruding kerb-edge, the first points of failure are likely to be one or more aluminium bolt-bosses at the bottom of the R18 engine casing, where the DK Design® studs screw into. The skid-plate is also too low and does not feature openings for oil changes. I suggest using SS threaded-bar, instead of the substantial studs provided by DK Designs®, along with three SS nuts each, to set and adjust the skid-pan height. Trial-fit first to determine each threaded-bar piece's best length and then trim those to the required length. Threaded-bar will function as well as the DK Design® studs but will bend instead of leading to engine boss damage. A skid-plate for a road bike should be thin, contoured SS, like those commonly sold for Honda Goldwings, not a thick aluminium plate, like those fitted on Adventure bikes.

Front axle sliders should NOT expand into the ends of the front axle for two reasons; 1) not to impart any additional stresses into this (critical) hollow front axle (hoop stress in this instance) and 2) since axle sliders need to be tied together with a bespoke rod through the axle - if not, they will pop off instead of slide along. Once again, all form and little function. I suggest sitting it out till R&G® or Sato Racing® offer properly engineered equivalents.

First adopters almost always pay twice. And at times, substantially more. I know (-:

 

[Black Dog]

Oil Change? We don't need mo stinking Oil Change.

 

[TodkaVonic]

That is a pretty large fender for all-ABS construction. The proverbial 'weakest link' is where it is bolted to the front forks. DK Design® knows this and have provided bolt-on bosses. These bosses need to be integral and larger to be worth the bother, though, like that evident on high-quality bolt-on carbon-fibre components - and carbon-fibre adds a fair amount more rigidity than ABS does. I suggest adding SS fender washers, inside and outside, when mounting the fender since the ABS will potentially flop around a bit in the wind, upfront - especially at higher speeds.

It will not be long before Russ Wernimont® and Klock Werks®, amongst others, offer proper steel front fenders for the R18, and most probably with different aesthetic options as well. And they sell for less than $400 typically for Haley Davidson - as premium a brand as BMW is.

I really want to like the DK Design® stuff, but their products seem rushed-to-market and un-engineered. ALL their R18 items feature integrity hiccups IMHO; that includes this fender, their engine guard (commented upon in another post), their skid-plate (sump-guard) and front axle sliders.

If you hit something solid with that skid-plate, like a protruding kerb-edge, the first points of failure are likely to be one or more aluminium bolt-bosses at the bottom of the R18 engine casing, where the DK Design® studs screw into. The skid-plate is also too low and does not feature openings for oil changes. I suggest using SS threaded-bar, instead of the substantial studs provided by DK Designs®, along with three SS nuts each, to set and adjust the skid-pan height. Trial-fit first to determine each threaded-bar piece's best length and then trim those to the required length. Threaded-bar will function as well as the DK Design® studs but will bend instead of leading to engine boss damage. A skid-plate for a road bike should be thin, contoured SS, like those commonly sold for Honda Goldwings, not a thick aluminium plate, like those fitted on Adventure bikes.

Front axle sliders should NOT expand into the ends of the front axle for two reasons; 1) not to impart any additional stresses into this (critical) hollow front axle (hoop stress in this instance) and 2) since axle sliders need to be tied together with a bespoke rod through the axle - if not, they will pop off instead of slide along. Once again, all form and little function. I suggest sitting it out till R&G® or Sato Racing® offer properly engineered equivalents.

First adopters almost always pay twice. And at times, substantially more. I know (-:

I hear ya. The fender should be steel and, someday, there will probably be several additional options. But my DK one just arrived in the States. It'll be on my bike in a couple weeks and I'll be enjoying it all season while others are, maybe, we think, coming to market. Basically, a known, attractive, and available item with faults is more palatable to me than an unavailable, hypothetical, and more perfect version of the same. A bird in the hand, my friend.

And I hate to break it to you, but, we're ALL first adaptors*


*except Red Sand, and maybe some lurkers. You get the idea.

 

[theMucker]

When I first saw the DK Design fender in photos I wanted to quickly go for my credit card.
Estoma & TodkaVonic make some good points to consider.
Personally I have no complaints with ABS plastic IN GENERAL. Virtually ALL of the bodywork on modern sportbikes, Adventure bikes, etc. is ABS. I'm even a welder of ABS plastic, so I am aware of how great the essential material is. FYI: before the name "ABS" became commonly known, most manufacturers called it "high impact plastic" and among it's most common early uses was in the mass production of telephones.
BUT whatever the base material, the design requires that the material and it's use/abuse be taken into consideration. As the wheel moves with road conditions, the fender has to endure some serious stress. If the ends wag about or vibrate up and down a lot, how long will the paint survive? OR the fender itself? In the photos the fender appears to have a center rib that runs front-to-back, starting and ending a bit away from the ends. That will give it some strength. But how thick is the plastic? Thicker is stiffer, but also heavier and weight at the front and back ends effects stress.
I'm not one to label all products coming from Asian countries junk, but I'm not thrilled either seeing it made in Taiwan. For that matter, is that decal proclaiming it's brand and country of origin removable? Is it cleared over? Yuck.
From the first day that I took ownership of my R18, I wanted a larger fender that looked more like those on the old R models from 1969 and beyond and it MUST be painted gloss black, with white pin striping. IMHO $450 for a painted and pin striped fender is not a lot of money. But I'm gonna wait to see what alternatives come up.