Clutch bite

[Fritz]

Hi...have searched for this problem but nothing so....have noticed that lately after ive done a ride at speed, when slowing down, the bite on my clutch reduces, to the point that its difficult to go down the gearbox. A few pumps and its ok, as it is most of the time. Am wondering whether its anything to do with the slipper clutch? Thanks.

 

[Bettie12]

Hi, I had the same problem. The clutch lever has an adjustable pin with Torx hole (T8) with which the play can be adjusted. The pin is secured from below with an Allen screw (2.0). This screw is secured with Loctite and the head is filled with lacquer. I have noticed that it is best to remove the entire lever, because you damage the Torx hole quite quickly. Loosen the Allen screw and turn the adjustment pin a full turn counterclockwise. (Normally the pin is first tightened so that it is just against the stop and then tightened a full turn). Retighten the Allen screw with Loctite and reinstall the lever. Good luck!

 

[Fritz]

Thanks for your reply....have put Wunderkind grips on due to difficulty pulling in clutch (arthritis) so have adjusted this threaded adjuster to suit the new lever. Call me stupid but am unsure how this is relative to the loss of bite on slowing down after a fast run?

 

[BobW]

I would check the last thing done when any recent work was completed on a related part or function having a "new" problem.

JMO, but I'd try grips and swop levers for better ergonomic comfort before fiddling with internal hydraulic settings, but perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you changed.

Anyway, If possible, reset the screw you adjusted and see if the problem goes away.

Just thinking out loud here. Outside a failing component and all things being equal, an improper adjustment or something preventing (e.g., very thick grip) the full travel of the clutch lever to allow complete disengagement of the clutch itself could cause your reluctant shifting and when you "pump it" multiple times the RPMs are changing and the multiple efforts with your foot finally find the point where the gears will disengage-engage for a successful shift. One also doesn't want an adjustment that prevents any "freeplay" from being present as even a little pressure that prevents the clutch from being completely engaged could potentially allow some slippage under highest demands and that could create extra heat that can cause problems dependant on how severe the condition is. The upper gears are easy to shift without any electronic "quick shift" aids as has been done on vehicles forever with just a little practice with throttle and one's timing and it's harder to unload the gears to allow a shift than to get them to remesh to the next one. Also the slipper clutch should have no part of this until potentially after a (too) lower gear was selected and then too much of a good thing would be detected and it would then cause a "slip" to prevent wheel lock-hopping-loss of traction. If your rechecking doesn't clear things up I would have the shop give her a once over.

Good luck