Just off ebay.... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/127823162878
Blue tacked on.... for size reference.... gained 8% more kangaroo power.
I'm going to make them removable so you can do shots with them.... horny schnapps shots 🤪
If one is not noticing any issues, and all passes a visual inspection (ie fork seals not leaking etc), then????
If after a "service" interval recomendation, then any brand heavy cruiser with old fashioned forks service intervals would be a data point....
Fwiw.... the first time would...
Don't confuse <130Kmh speeds with lowish throttle openings...... they are not related in my world... 😎.... I might even "feed" the air straight to the top of the filter now I think about it.
My riding is in the 80 to 130kmh range .... so nothing to radical should happen pressure wise... just a bit more like the slots in the front cover really.
Of the same order.... but (as always nothing is simple) the air exit hole does not line up with the one(s) in the engine cover..... and you have the issue of how it will "screw" to the cover.... I intend to modify it and "bond" it to a "shaped" plate (ordered a sheet of carbon fibre for this...
So they arrived..... thinking of two.... buy a bit of carbon fibre plate, shape as a base to bond these to that then mount to the engine case. Will order a bit of plate now and go from there.
Haven't arrived yet.... slow boat from China.... though... I've had more thinking time (went up the river camping last week, lots of drinking around the camp fire for 4 days)..... I'm thinking 2 or 3 of the ram tubes per side... definitely forward facing. Once the pair I ordered arrive I...
For my simple brain there are 2 things at odds here..... one is adding air or removing heat.... sort of at odds with each other.
Fwiw.... AI says:
A 10°C reduction in intake air temperature increases air density, which typically yields about a 1.5% to 2.0% increase in horsepower and torque...
Fwiw.... most don't bleed the new "top" lines that way... so no need to reach the brake or clutch bleeder valves. Do a search (I've done mine a few times with the "venting" technique.).
https://www.r18forums.com/threads/bleeding-the-clutch.434/#post-11934
Fwiw.... I do occasionally run some injector cleaner in a tank.... I just have it on hand for my 4wd.
I also do dose fuel I have on hand that I may not get around to using for a while as it is a general purpose additive. I buy 5l of it each year during the sales.... but it is a Australian...
The bolts are accessible without the need for the rectangular opening, so the openings are there as per the airport poles.
Part of me wants to Dremel the left side of the opening a bit.....
If I don't get controll of my thoughts, I can see myself looking at the two top panels whilst thinking about what metal in them can go..... like maybe lengthen the slots behind the side pates, cut some away at the top.....
For the most part, I'd assume at best a couple of fans pointed at the cylinders.... not so much replicating flow over the front and sides of the bike to replicate real life conditions (as a wind tunnel might).
Fwiw.... I bought a set of the "horns"..... thinking to mount them facing rearward.... I expect to play with them for 2-4 hours, scratch my head, then put them on the shelf to death we do part.
Other ideas for them are back scratchers, ear plugs holders, use on helmet for Viking day rides...
A slightly unrelated question, when looking at dyno runs on bikes like (ish) the R18 (so HD 114/117s etc).... all the dyno curves seem to taper from nothing with a "real" starting point around 2,000 to 2,500rpm.... personally I want real detail from just off Idle and very much 1500 plus rpm...
Why? The sump is super strong..... an idiot could even slide their bike on it.... then get 3 men to drag it back onto it's front wheel. I did this so you wouldn't have to.....
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