... a poor mans nitros !! LOL
This said I think with the front intakes (the original intakes) the fair low is designed so that the water is shed before getting sucked in ... snorkels and all ... well at least I hope so ;) ... in any case I like the 'scoop' or 'ram-air' idea better than just...
I like your idea ... and the looks ... but just to play 'Devil's Advocate' here ... I take it you don't ride in the rain? ... or maybe it doesn't rain much where you are, it doesn't in my neck of the woods ... still IMO wouldn't the engine also suck in a fair amount of water this way?
50 000 km!!! Holy $hit LOL ... if 2 little slivers is all you found ... they could have been there since assembly and now just finally knocked loose and got caught by the magnet ... IMO ... I think I would not worry ... but that is me ;) ... you could change the oil next time ahead of schedule...
That sounds about right when running ... without the engine running it seems just a tad low ... before I changed my battery mine was right around 12V but it dropped dramatically when hitting the starter and occasionally threw a headlamp fault because the voltage dropped so low ... a new battery...
Thanks ... that seems a bit low to me with just the ignition on ... but I could be wrong ... mine shows right under 13V (12.95) but it does drop if I leave the ignition on for a bit ... and you said the fault showed up with the engine running ... so power shouldn't be a problem ... I think this...
I am just glad that you are making some sort of process ... I am with StarLord ... ride it as much as you can before they pick it up ... oh one more question ... what is your voltage (measured with a meter not the bike display) with the ignition 'ON' ... maybe (it couldn't be that simple) you...
... hmmm
... wouldn't a disconnected coil also throw an error? just not an 'overcurrent' error ... is that what you are going for? ... just curious ...
IMO ... the controls you posted in an early post will work just fine hydraulically ... but what are you going to do with the electrics? ... some of the aftermarket controls have separate switch blocks (like the PM one's on my Shovel) ... are you thinking of something like that? or are you going...
I agree with all the above ... and it does work with IOS or Android ... actually a bit better with Windows and/or Android than Mac OS and/or IOS ... just to throw in my 2¢ ;)
Just to throw in my 2¢ ... more often than not a good OBD tool will show past codes even if they are not present anymore ...
But then there is the notion of 'If it ain't broke ... don't fix it' :cool:
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.