Front And Rear Brake Pads Replacement

Calboy

Calboy

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"It will be $ 603.28 for us to install for new BMW pads and mounting hardware,for both, the front and the rear"
That's what I was quoted by my local BMW dealership for replacing the brake pads.
I am waiting, as I'm typing this, to find out if the Service manager will "approve" the brake pads I already purchased rather than the BMW ones.
I purchased the EBC:
FA748HH - Front
FA749HH - Rear

Can anybody explain to me what "mounting hardware "actually is? And why is it necessary to be replaced probably each time the pads are replaced?
I have a little bit over 15k on my 2021 R18FE
 
From what I saw when I removed mine to grease there is a spring type plate that the pads push against… that might worn over time. Also the retaining pin. You don’t want to do it yourself? It’s super easy.
 
Do it yourself, really easy. Would you take your car to the dealer for every little thing?

Take the calipers off, with the old brake pads still installed, pry a flat screwdriver between the bads to open the calipers, remove the old brake pads, new ones on, put the calipers back in the rotor, torque to spec, squeeze the lever or foot pedal until you close the calipers to build pressure. Done. 😀
 
LCRC18B said:
Do it yourself, really easy. Would you take your car to the dealer for every little thing?

Take the calipers off, with the old brake pads still installed, pry a flat screwdriver between the bads to open the calipers, remove the old brake pads, new ones on, put the calipers back in the rotor, torque to spec, squeeze the lever or foot pedal until you close the calipers to build pressure. Done. 😀
Click to expand...
Omg… please don’t tell me you use the screw driver method on your own car….
 
XUMERX said:
Omg… please don’t tell me you use the screw driver method on your own car….
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What are you talking about? On the bike. How do you get the calipers apart? Do you use magic 🎩 ✨️? Do you think the kid at the tire shop has a PhD in brakes?

I've changed brakes on every bike I've had for thirty years, rebuilt engines, change my own tires, fluids, rebuilt carbs. I'm just trying to be helpful and build the community, so people aren't scared away from the platform (expensive dealer maintenance and no service manual).

Tell us how you do it, please.
 
Thanks for the replies.
I used to do most of the maintenance work on almost every single bike I've had, but as time has gone by I became comfortable.
I think I will give it a shot though. Should I get the retaining pin or even the spring action plates the pads push against?
The least I can do is to ask the parts people if those items are available, even though I don't think that "the hardware" went bad in 15,000 miles!
 
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XUMERX said:
I just don't like using sharp screwdrivers on chrome parts.. they = scratches... but who cares.
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You use the screwdriver between the old brake pads you're throwing away. It doesn't scratch anything. You open the calipers just enough to make up for the additional brake pad material on the new pads, so they'll fit over the rotor.
 
Calboy said:
"It will be $ 603.28 for us to install for new BMW pads and mounting hardware,for both, the front and the rear"
That's what I was quoted by my local BMW dealership for replacing the brake pads.
I am waiting, as I'm typing this, to find out if the Service manager will "approve" the brake pads I already purchased rather than the BMW ones.
I purchased the EBC:
FA748HH - Front
FA749HH - Rear

Can anybody explain to me what "mounting hardware "actually is? And why is it necessary to be replaced probably each time the pads are replaced?
I have a little bit over 15k on my 2021 R18FE
Click to expand...
Sounds ridiculous. Very often a good trustworthy Motorcycle tire shop does brakes also. There should be a few aftermarket pads that fit, or can be easily made to fit. Somewhere around 125-135 each should do the trick.
WTF is mounting hardware??? The pads fit right where the BMW pads are removed....
 
If going for sintered aftermarket pads like the EBCs, can we confirm that the OEM pads were sintered as well? or that the rotors are compatible with sintered pads? Otherwise rotors will wear 10x faster..

I once purchased a superb lightweight wavy disc and a new set of (sintered) pads without knowing that the disc was meant to be used with organic pads... it was gone in 6 months after about 3000 miles, down to 3mm thin and the pads were looking unused o_O
The braking power was amazing but I didn't realise I was braking with the disc, not the pads smh..
 
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